upper hose collapse - Nissan Forums : Nissan Forum
 
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#1 Old 12-03-2011, 11:38 PM
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upper hose collapse

I got a code P1126 which is thermostat fnctn (function?)

popped the hood and saw that the upper hose was collapsed. When I open the radiator cap that released the vacuum. I went and got a new thermostat, one of the easiest t stats on todays cars I've done, and started the car and let it get up to temp while I topped off the coolant.

My wife came home and after cooling down the upper hose was again collapsed and I had to add more coolant.

I don't see any leaks so where did all the coolant go the first time. I assume I got that code because of the vacuum. It did say tstat function but there is a sensor on the upper hose close to the block. I was thinking that's what the code was all about.
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#2 Old 12-04-2011, 03:57 AM
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I don't know if this information applies to your car. In years past there was a metal spring inside the suction radiator hose to keep it from collapsing due to suction from the water pump. It is possible the metal spring has rusted through and cannot hold the hose open. I assume it is possible the collapsed hose could set off the same sensor that a thermostat stuck in the closed position would. Some hoses have wire molded into them for the same reason. Maybe someone replaced it with the wrong hose.
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#3 Old 12-04-2011, 02:34 PM
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Always open to suggestions which is why we all post here. It's the orginal 11yo, 140k mile hose.
I did some googling and suction from the water pump usually affects the lower hose.
For the top hose it's suggested to check the radiator cap,(new) and the overflow tank line for blockage which I'll be doing today.
Will report back.
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#4 Old 12-04-2011, 03:48 PM
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Hopefully it turns out to be the rad cap.


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#5 Old 12-04-2011, 07:12 PM
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careful only time ive ever busted hoses over and over is when i my headgasket was getting ready to go.i wasnt burning water at all but i was pushing compression into the cooling system causing them to go.hook everything back up,top the coolant off,and fire up the car with the rad cap off.if the coolant is bubbling your ****ed.
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#6 Old 12-04-2011, 07:41 PM
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Everything seems back to normal today.... hmmmm

these aren't hoses that are going to bust from preasure, it is collaping from a vacuum. the rad cap is newer. I just cleaned up the gasket and seat and blew out the expansion tank line.

thanks for the good news miami lol
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#7 Old 12-05-2011, 01:43 AM
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#8 Old 12-05-2011, 01:47 AM
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Did you bleed the system when you finished changing the t-stat?


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#9 Old 12-05-2011, 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by jayjaya29 View Post
Did you bleed the system when you finished changing the t-stat?
Good call. That's exactly what it all sounds like at this stage.



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#10 Old 12-05-2011, 04:09 PM
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collapsed upper rad hose

Replace the radiator cap. The vaccuum relief valve in the cap is stuck or clogged. Likewise be sure the hose between radiator and overflow bottle is unobstructed.
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#11 Old 12-06-2011, 05:00 AM
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Go ahead and replace the hose while you're at it. When hoses get old, they either get really brittle or really soft (radiator hoses usually get real soft). You already said it's 11 years old; that's far, far beyond the suggested lifespan. A new hose is cheap and takes all of 5 minutes to replace, though you do have to drain some coolant out first. Don't reuse the original clamps, they're a pain in the ass.

You're correct in that the suction will affect the lower hose only, at least on this car.

The sensor on the upper hose is the sending unit for the temp gauge on the dash - it's not connected to the ECU in any way. Disconnecting it will only result in your temp gauge sitting on "C" all the time. There's another temp sensor (I want to say on the back of the engine?) that tells the computer how hot the engine is; if you're still getting that code after you fix the collapsing hose, then that sensor may be bad or disconnected.

If the upper sensor (on the upper hose) is bad, a new one is cheap; a brand new OEM one was $15 at the dealer when I replaced mine, and AutoZone has them for about $10.

As FreakFlier suggested, replace the cap and make sure the line from the radiator to the overflow is clear. Bleeding the cooling system is a bit of a pain as well.
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