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Old 02-03-2012, 06:28 AM
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oh no he didnt!





Now i see where it leaks, ITS CYLINDER NUMBER 1 NOT NUMBER 3 AND 4!!!, i always consider the cylinder closest to passenger side in this arrangement number 1, all i kept reading about is that its cylinder number 4 so i kep sprayer number 4 (driver side). So as im pulling off the intake im looking in there and thinking to my self the gasket looks fine, just great i did this all for nothing dammit, but as i pulled the whole thing out i noticed where it must have been leaking right by the iac on cylinder number 1. Is cylinder number 1 actually on the passenger side on this car?? well i must say that was a pain in the ass!, I would have been in higher moral as i was taking it apart had i known for sure that the intakes were my issue. Thanks for all the advice still gotta throw this thing back together think ill wait till tomorrow! thats the nice thing about being ur own boss, i would not wanna do this shit all in one day even if i woke up early to do it!

Last edited by dirtrider5001; 02-03-2012 at 06:38 AM.
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 02-03-2012, 01:49 PM
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Glad to hear that it was the IM gasket that went. And yes, if you're standing in front of the car looking at the engine, the cyl's are 1-4 going left to right, 1 being closest to the IAC and 4 being closest to the distributor.

The IM gasket is known to break around cyl's 3 and 4 but that's not the only place it can break. Good luck putting it all back together and have fun with the lower nut on the cyl 1 runner.
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Old 02-04-2012, 10:50 AM
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dammit, its all together but no difference

frekin thing has a blown head gasket, i knew it was getting to temp to quickly and that it wasnt right how when i revved it when it wasnt even too warm it wud come out the radiator cap, the headgasket was the problem i know it, i did a combustion test b4 i started ripping apart the intake and it didnt show any problems. That was my first time using one of those testers and i dont think i let the car warm up enough first. Im gonna retest the head but i know thats what it is. it doesnt over heat but i think its the headgasket
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Old 02-07-2012, 03:04 AM
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bad distributor

distributor was the problem. I had already swapped the dist that was on there with a junkyard one. The junkyard one was off a car that was smashed horribly from the side. Also the junkyard one was marked as if it was replaced at one time. Also the junkyard one had a silver instead of bronze screw holding in the center rotor so i assumed it was a rebuilt. Still though it was bad, the car would still run though. I bought a brand new one from autozone that im going to return now that i know that was the problem. I was able to fix my origional one with jb weld, (the disc cuts a groove into the center piece and the disc comes out of alignment) still though the origional one doesnt work as good as the new one. Either way its fixed now thanks for the support i wont foget this lesson.
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Old 02-07-2012, 03:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtrider5001 View Post
distributor was the problem. I had already swapped the dist that was on there with a junkyard one. The junkyard one was off a car that was smashed horribly from the side. Also the junkyard one was marked as if it was replaced at one time. Also the junkyard one had a silver instead of bronze screw holding in the center rotor so i assumed it was a rebuilt. Still though it was bad, the car would still run though. I bought a brand new one from autozone that im going to return now that i know that was the problem. I was able to fix my origional one with jb weld, (the disc cuts a groove into the center piece and the disc comes out of alignment) still though the origional one doesnt work as good as the new one. Either way its fixed now thanks for the support i wont foget this lesson.
Heh, so after all that it was a bad camshaft sensor with a starting to fail IM gasket. Glad to hear you got it running right.

But why return the AZ distributor if it's running better with the reman than the modified OE?
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Old 02-07-2012, 07:08 PM
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because

im selling the car like i said so no need to cough up that much money just for someone else. Im not gonna put the modified oe back on im gonna get one from the junkyard (my other one is still under warranty) that works just as good as the new one. . ill be sure to let the next owner know that if they ever have a problem then its the distributor lol, well i sure do have a new thing to look for next time im at the junkyards(new distributors). Im even gonna put new valve cover gaskets on. I am going to be driving the car in the next half hour or so to go to get the exhaust fixed, its cracked before the second oxy sensor, i have it rigged currently. THis will be my first time driving somethin with the 2.4 in it. From what i see i like this motor, I can just imagine it in a rear wheel drive 240 or the like. I am glad that i learned so much about this car in trying to figure out my problem. In my googling i also read lots of BAD stuff about the 2.5, glad i dont have one of those. Its such a shame that the next gen had to have so many issues. I still have a little idle issue but i attribute that to a crushed second oxy sensor and/or exhaust leak. By the way that intake gasket isnt such a bad job once you do it the first time and learn all the tricks as many of you know. It is a little frustrating the first time. Ill let everyone know how everything works out and ill take some pics of the car. Ill tell you this its gonna be hard to get rid of this one but there are many more to save!

Last edited by dirtrider5001; 02-07-2012 at 07:13 PM.
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Old 02-07-2012, 07:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirtrider5001 View Post
im selling the car like i said so no need to cough up that much money just for someone else. Im not gonna put the modified oe back on im gonna get one from the junkyard (my other one is still under warranty) that works just as good as the new one. . ill be sure to let the next owner know that if they ever have a problem then its the distributor lol, well i sure do have a new thing to look for next time im at the junkyards(new distributors). Im even gonna put new valve cover gaskets on. I am going to be driving the car in the next half hour or so to go to get the exhaust fixed, its cracked before the second oxy sensor, i have it rigged currently. THis will be my first time driving somethin with the 2.4 in it. From what i see i like this motor, I can just imagine it in a rear wheel drive 240 or the like. I am glad that i learned so much about this car in trying to figure out my problem. In my googling i also read lots of BAD stuff about the 2.5, glad i dont have one of those. Its such a shame that the next gen had to have so many issues. I still have a little idle issue but i attribute that to a crushed second oxy sensor and/or exhaust leak. By the way that intake gasket isnt such a bad job once you do it the first time and learn all the tricks as many of you know. It is a little frustrating the first time. Ill let everyone know how everything works out and ill take some pics of the car. Ill tell you this its gonna be hard to get rid of this one but there are many more to save!
Glad to hear you atleast like the KA, and believe it or not there is the beginning of a resurgence of KA based 240 builds. People are finally appreciating the torque and power band of a KA rather than instantly going to the SR.

But yea, the early QR's had a lot if issues, and I mean a lot. The more recent ones not so much, but I just don't like how comparatively weak the internals are compared to the KA's.
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Old 02-08-2012, 01:45 AM
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Exhaust is fixed but this idle issue is pissing me off a little. How often do these cars have issues with the idle air control valve? i was gonna try and loosen it up with my impact when i had the intake off but completly forgot( the screws probably woulda stripped anyway). the car will probably be just fine if i set the idle to like 900 but thats obviously way to high. It jumps from like 700 to 900 rpms and back down again, its going up down up down updown quickly, and if i dont have my foot on the gas slightly when i put it in drive it will stall. Its not misfiring though at all. I even tried adjusting the timing which didnt help) So again are these iacv prone to failure or clogging up?? Like i said the oxygen sensor is a little smashed in but its not throwin any codes so if my problem was the oxy i would think it woulda thrown a code. It appears that i can remove the fast idle valve easily but i dunno i just figured i would try and pick ur brains a little to help me figure this one out.

Last edited by dirtrider5001; 02-08-2012 at 01:52 AM.
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Old 02-09-2012, 05:40 PM
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injector seals

they werent sealing, a cuple days ago i started tightening down the fuel rail without one of the little spacers underneath it. I knew right then i ****ed up big time, of course no matter how much i try and put the alignment back straight on the fuel rail i cant get the dam thing to seal, Ahh ive been thru this before. So im off to get another rail at the junkyard, youd think this was the first time ive ever worked on a car right? These dam seals are freken weird as hell tho you have to admit, Even with the fuel rail strait as an arrow i can still see alignment issues is your not really careful, I have the air assisted fuel injectors with the tip that helps alot in aligning the rail buy keeping the injectors centered on the seal, but the older ones all dont have that and there is some play on the rail screws, and the design of the seals doesnt give much leway. Im gonna grab some seals and another rail and i should be fine and have no more idle issue. although im sure i wont be able to find a rail with the air assist which seems to just be in my year range, so hopefully i wont have any problems just by passing that option.
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Old 02-10-2012, 02:33 AM
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well i drove 45 minutes for the injector seals that go on the intake and bought another unmolested fuel rail from the junkyard and STILL i have a vacuum leak, the fuel rail helped alot. This is really pissing me off. It revs up quicker than hell but the idle is fluctuating from like 5-1000k, and also even when i turn the iac screw all the way in it still is idling at like 1k. I tried adjusting tps, no good, with a new gasket on the intake and the iac theres not really to many places left for it to leak, i sprayed carb cleaner all over and cant figure this shit out. Just found out today its a california emmisions car. Im gonna clean the garage cuz its trashed then run more test but im running out of things to test.
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Old 02-11-2012, 10:09 PM
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Intake warped!!

The intake is warped!! Thats my analysis, i put new gaskets on the egr. So thats means that now every single gasket has been replaced on the intake. I even pulled the starter, ect today and split the intake in two so i could get at the the bolts on the upper plenum to re-tighten them just to make sure that they werent a little loose. I prepped the manifold and the head very, very very well. The manifold is warped, i am still getting low vacuum pressure like around 13 in. The car starts up and runs great but at idle it still has a fluctuation(rough at idle), the tell tale vacuum leak. The only way i can keep it idled down where its supposed to be is to turn the tps all the way retarded. Also i have turned the idle screww in and out to see if it was maladjusted and that is not the problem either. I have searched up and down looking for a vacuum leak to no avail. I have owned probably over 200 vehicles and i can honestly say this one has been one of the worst vehicles that i have ever dealt with.

Last edited by dirtrider5001; 02-11-2012 at 10:14 PM.
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Old 02-11-2012, 10:27 PM
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Are you sure the IM is warped and not the head?
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Old 02-12-2012, 01:13 AM
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most likely the intake,

i just got back inside from messing with it again, i was actually out there to pull the manifold but ended up just searching for a leak again. Well i think its the manifold because of what i saw when i was prepping it. I use an electric die grinder and the blue scotch type pads from harber freight for prepping most any engine prep job. As i was grinding away at the intake i noticed that there were a cuple spots ( some on the lower and some on the upper manifold) were the gasket REALLY didnt wanna come off. I believe that much of the time when this happens its because the gasket is sitting lower in that spot due to warpage. The gasket came off the head very easily except for a little spot by the (iac valve hole right next to the number one intake port? on the passenger side. One thing is for certain i didnt leave anygasket matierial on any surface that is causing this. So is this the first time you have heard of warpage problems with this?? im sure the car was overheated at one time as it has a newer radiator, water pump, and one of the freeze plugs leaks a little. BUt again is this warpage issue unheard of? I googled it and found one thing in a wiki type page that said the manifold can warp on these but suprisingly thats all i found on the subject. i might just bring it in to nissan and have them run a diag but i already got so much money into this car i know one thing giving up isnt an option. If i have to ill grab another intake from the junkyard for 20 bucks.

Last edited by dirtrider5001; 02-12-2012 at 01:18 AM.
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Old 02-12-2012, 01:20 AM
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I've heard of head's warping from overheating. But never an IM from this car. Although there is a first for everything.
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Old 02-12-2012, 01:25 AM
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so

so when you say the head just to confirm you are talking about the intake section of the head right?
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