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  #31  
Old 09-08-2012, 12:02 PM
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Well, after the first week of keeping track of this I'm on the low end of what the EPA estimates. With 95% stop and go city driving I'm right at 20 MPG. Not where I want to be but at least now I know my baseline. So yesterday after I filled up I put some more air in the tires, (went from 32 to 40PSI) and stopped at WalMart and picked up some of their marine oil to use. This next fill up will be after a lot more driving and will be mostly highway so we'll see how much of a difference there is.

I also believe my TPS sensor is starting to die so I need to pick up a new one of those as well. Hopefully that wont skew the results to bad.


Quote:
Originally Posted by cthunder
The more you mod your car the moodier it gets.
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  #32  
Old 09-08-2012, 12:10 PM
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That sounds about right unfortunately...has me thinking I shoulda had a V8 lol

I still need to check my air pressure as I'm taking the car about an hour down the interstate this morning. Not looking forward to it, at least if I had a turbo I might not feel so bad about the funky mpg...
  #33  
Old 09-08-2012, 11:52 PM
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Have you read up on Hypermiling techniques?

1) Don't rabbit start from a stop, tortoise start.
2) Coast to stop signs and stop lights, instead of keeping the gas all the way
3) Don't go through drive-throughs, stop the car and go inside. Every 30 seconds you waste idling is roughly the gas you'd use to re-start the car, so if you have to sit and wait a lot longer than that, turn the car off.
4) Learn pulse and glide technique.
5) Plan your routes that are either the shortest possible, or the most fuel-efficient possible (few traffic lights, roads without a lot of uphills, roads with downhills to coast down, etc.)
  #34  
Old 09-10-2012, 06:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Lion View Post
Have you read up on Hypermiling techniques?

1) Don't rabbit start from a stop, tortoise start.
2) Coast to stop signs and stop lights, instead of keeping the gas all the way
3) Don't go through drive-throughs, stop the car and go inside. Every 30 seconds you waste idling is roughly the gas you'd use to re-start the car, so if you have to sit and wait a lot longer than that, turn the car off.
4) Learn pulse and glide technique.
5) Plan your routes that are either the shortest possible, or the most fuel-efficient possible (few traffic lights, roads without a lot of uphills, roads with downhills to coast down, etc.)
1. Yup, I did some reading for a few days before I started this thread. As it is I try and accelerate slowly in town, (keeps the exhaust down and helps MPG). I try and keep it below 2500 RPM as much as possible. I already avoid drive thru's for the most part.

2. Already do that. I called it progressive braking though. Where I would increase pedal pressure before the light and try to time it so as I was coming to the line, the light would turn green, and I wouldn't have to come to a complete stop. And if I know I'm gonna get hit with a string of red lights I accelerate enough to get going and then let off and coast as long as possible.

3. Unless it's first thing in the morning (5:30ish and I'm stopping at Dunkin for an iced tea). Other than that I always go in. Less hassle that way and no chance of getting stuck behind the soccer mom who just ordered food for her, her husband, and the 5 kids in the mini-van at the drive thru.

4. I'm still working on pulse and glide.

5. This is something I'm working on as well. The route I used to take to and from work had a lot of up and down hills. The route I've started taking is slightly longer but it's more of a gradual incline than the other way. I'm debating on taking route B to work and route A home since A would allow me a lot more downhill time and route B tends to get more congested in certain spots in the afternoon/evening.

Update time.

Since last time I put ~340 miles on her. I'd say 85% of which was highway. Although a chunk of those highway miles were not cruising miles. And the 15% of the miles that were not highway I'd venture that 5-10% of which was in heavy stop and go traffic. Lastly, most of this trip was with the front windows halfway down. The vents just weren't cutting it for cooling purposes and my A/C is still out of commission. Before this trip I had topped off the tires at 40 PSI and started adding the 2 stroke marine oil.

The results were just shy of 27 MPG. I believe if the highway miles had been more of a cruise speed and the city miles were less congested my mileage would've fared better. So now that I have some basic city and highway estimates I'm going to start doing my Eco Mods that I described earlier. First things first and that will be my upper grille block. I'm gonna take a trip to WalMart tomorrow and see if I can find those poster frames I mentioned earlier. If not I'll have to find something else.

I've also been giving heavy thought to converting my CAI to a WAI and making a box to act as a heat shield of sorts and try and direct the flow from outside the engine bay. I remember seeing a thread on here recently about it. Time to see if I can find it as well. I also probably need to change my filter out so I'll do that too.

EDIT:

Found the intake thread I was thinking of. Google ftw!
http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/eng...ntake-mod.html

Also, I remember reading something on Maxima.org about wrapping the IM and intake piping in some sort of heat reflective tape. Might have to dig that up too.


Quote:
Originally Posted by cthunder
The more you mod your car the moodier it gets.
FX-R Projector Retro v3.0
ES Fog Retro v2.0
DIY Trunk/Chassis Bracing

Last edited by StanzaDescendant; 09-10-2012 at 06:36 PM.
  #35  
Old 11-12-2012, 11:31 PM
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No, I haven't forgotten about this project. I've just had zero time between work, school, and finally starting to finish up my quad retrofit. If the weather is still decent next week I may be able to pull my CAI, convert it to a SRI, and start on the heat shield idea.

But I've been getting low to mid 20's since my last update. Need to get an exhaust leak fixed though. I've got a crack where my header meets the flange at the head. And I want to look into a new muffler as well.


Quote:
Originally Posted by cthunder
The more you mod your car the moodier it gets.
FX-R Projector Retro v3.0
ES Fog Retro v2.0
DIY Trunk/Chassis Bracing
  #36  
Old 11-13-2012, 06:57 PM
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Are you auto or 5 speed?
  #37  
Old 11-14-2012, 01:36 PM
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Auto unfortunately.


Quote:
Originally Posted by cthunder
The more you mod your car the moodier it gets.
FX-R Projector Retro v3.0
ES Fog Retro v2.0
DIY Trunk/Chassis Bracing
  #38  
Old 11-14-2012, 02:01 PM
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Sucks for me then....Because of my super high cruising revs on the highway, I decided to keep things below 3k rpm and drove about 65-68mph which put me around 2700-2800rpm (old auto, I could drive 80mph at this same rpm!).

I did find a noticeable increase in mpg dropping my hwy speed but with the first half tank being all stop and go city (wife driving), we seem to average around 115-130ish miles for the first half tank and about 140-150 miles for the second half of the tank with all highway driving.

From full to dead on the 'E' mark, I don't think we've gotten close to 300 miles to the tank yet with the 2000 auto tranny (and mismatched TCU). More like 250-265 or so! Going to dump this car sometime but it drives so smooth otherwise lol...And no, I'm not putting another 3.61 FD auto back in unless the 4.08 blows before I sell it (whenever that happens)
Sigh....

BTW, I noticed your intake link. Quite a few years back myself and another member tried out a Hybrid type WAI intake setup that has worked for me ever since. Wanting the same best of both worlds and realizing (as many manufacturers have over the last years) that the OEM plastic piping/filter housing are superior at reducing air temp heatsoak, I installed a genuine K&N cone filter, bolted inside the stock airbox via an aluminum MAF adaptor. I yanked the fender snorkel box, replacing it with a 3" piping and scoop. In an early version, I mated the 3" fender piping between the airbox (opened up to 3") and the OEM fender snorkel box, but opened it up on the front/bumper side to create a scoop effect.

So basically a 3" cold air system but with the filter tucked safely up inside the airbox to prevent hydrolock and a very noticeable difference over the stock setup. It was also a big upgrade over the POP Charger I had installed some time before.

The only change I considered was installing an even larger airbox (a la Comptech Icebox, various OEM theories, etc) with the idea to bolt the JWT POP Charger itself lol but never had time to go airbox hunting. While not necessarily providing a large increase over my existing setup, it seems the larger airbox acts as a small plenum and aids in throttle response....

Just some food for thought

Have fun

Last edited by niceguy; 11-14-2012 at 02:16 PM.
  #39  
Old 11-14-2012, 11:07 PM
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Any pictures of that intake setup?


Quote:
Originally Posted by cthunder
The more you mod your car the moodier it gets.
FX-R Projector Retro v3.0
ES Fog Retro v2.0
DIY Trunk/Chassis Bracing
  #40  
Old 11-15-2012, 03:44 AM
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I could get a few probably....I actually took the setup off and swapped in a stock intake when it was time for filter cleaning and forgot to put it back a few months ago....Now I can't find the fender piping/scoop but the K&N/MAF assembly is still bolted to the spare airbox.

Try to get a couple tomorrow, it's nothing fancy...

EDIT: I haven't used p'bucket in forever and hate this new setup, I'll try to shrink it more later on...this should explain it though

Last edited by niceguy; 11-15-2012 at 10:22 PM.
  #41  
Old 11-15-2012, 10:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by niceguy View Post
I could get a few probably....I actually took the setup off and swapped in a stock intake when it was time for filter cleaning and forgot to put it back a few months ago....Now I can't find the fender piping/scoop but the K&N/MAF assembly is still bolted to the spare airbox.

Try to get a couple tomorrow, it's nothing fancy...

EDIT: I haven't used p'bucket in forever and hate this new setup, I'll try to shrink it more later on...this should explain it though
[IMG]http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b47/mephibosheth03/P1020028-1.jpg[ /IMG]
Hmmm. . .if I can find my stock air-box that may be an option.


Quote:
Originally Posted by cthunder
The more you mod your car the moodier it gets.
FX-R Projector Retro v3.0
ES Fog Retro v2.0
DIY Trunk/Chassis Bracing
  #42  
Old 11-15-2012, 10:59 PM
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It looks like an cylinder shaped filter but it's a typical K&N cone, I believe it's a 4.5" (length). It was the largest I could fit in the stock airbox.

Like I said, you could find larger Nissan airboxes and probably rig them to bolt in place and work but I just didn't have the time. I think a larger airbox would provide better gains but no idea to what degree....

To make the MAF adaptor work, I removed the OEM screen mesh inside the airbox. I then used some small machine screws to bolt the MAF adaptor to the airbox and then you bolt the filter to the adaptor. Even without the mesh, I've never experienced any drivability or idle issues.

I used a piece of gasket material (the paper type you can get from parts stores or Nissan parts dept) between the MAF sensor where it bolts to the outside of the airbox to avoid air leaks and erratic MAF signal behavior..
  #43  
Old 11-15-2012, 11:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by niceguy View Post
It looks like an cylinder shaped filter but it's a typical K&N cone, I believe it's a 4.5" (length). It was the largest I could fit in the stock airbox.

Like I said, you could find larger Nissan airboxes and probably rig them to bolt in place and work but I just didn't have the time. I think a larger airbox would provide better gains but no idea to what degree....

To make the MAF adaptor work, I removed the OEM screen mesh inside the airbox. I then used some small machine screws to bolt the MAF adaptor to the airbox and then you bolt the filter to the adaptor. Even without the mesh, I've never experienced any drivability or idle issues.

I used a piece of gasket material (the paper type you can get from parts stores or Nissan parts dept) between the MAF sensor where it bolts to the outside of the airbox to avoid air leaks and erratic MAF signal behavior..
Thanks for the info. If I can find my stock airbox I'll work on this once I finish my quad setup, which should be finished by Thanksgiving.


Quote:
Originally Posted by cthunder
The more you mod your car the moodier it gets.
FX-R Projector Retro v3.0
ES Fog Retro v2.0
DIY Trunk/Chassis Bracing
  #44  
Old 12-03-2012, 08:57 AM
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Good luck with grille block. I did with it then garbaged it! Had one never do that again ever!
  #45  
Old 12-04-2012, 02:45 AM
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Speaking of maxima forum members lol, Schmellyfart may have some interesting eco mods/methods that he's used on his DE-K 4th gen over at .org. Although his platform has a superior power/weight ratio and manual tranny, he was claiming to get around high 20's in city which is nuts though the tranny definitely helps.

You may want to check out some of his threads though, despite the username lol...
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