When is a good time to change to synthetic oil. I want to use royal purple. How many of you`all are using synthetic oil and which brands do you like?
thanks, dan
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1997 Sentra GXE 5 spd
2008 Spec V Magnetic Gray
When is a good time to change to synthetic oil. I want to use royal purple. How many of you`all are using synthetic oil and which brands do you like?
thanks, dan
I just switched to synthetic oil when I did my first oil change.
I am running Mobile 1 5w-30 Full synthetic accompanied by Mobile 1's extended life oil filter. Costs me right at $30-$32 to do myself. I change filter/oil every 5K miles.
I've heard good things about Royal Purple, but I've also heard it's just not worth it. I've heard positive things about Amsoil, but have no knowledge of it whatsoever. K&N filters are supposed to be geared more towards racing applications and simply aren't worth it for daily drivers (from what I've read). So this is what I'm using in my car and I plan on using this same setup the entire life of the car. No need to switch things around halfway through and throw different things at the engine imo.
My girlfriend's car on the other hand we are using Mobile 1 5w-30 Clean 5000 (non-synthetic I believe), accompanied by Purolator's Pure One filter. Changed every 5K miles as said in her manual. (2007 toyota corolla) I've heard/rear the Pure one filter is supposed to be one of the better ones for the cheaper price.
I use Amsoil products. Tried Royal Purple, don't like it. Used Castrol SynTec, meh, it was alright. But Amsoil is by far the best stuff to use. If you plan on keeping your car for a long time it only makes sense to switch to a synthetic blend. Preventative maintenance.
I used Royal Purple along with Lucas fuel injector cleaner in the Benz....couldn't believe the gas mileage. I went from Mobil 1 to RP. I don't know that RP is worth the extra money, although it is good stuff.
I run Amsoil in my motorcycle. Have been for 2 years. Runs cooler and last longer.
Didnt like royal purple. Didnt hold up very long. I wouldnt waste the cash on an inferior oil.
Mobil1 used to be great, but it has been reformulated and it sucks. I used to run it in my service vehicles and it would maintain color and not gum up for 7500 HARD miles...
The new mix burns and discolors within 3000 not so hard miles. Very disappointing, specially for the cost.
We have been running Amsoil 15-40 in our diesels for 15000 mile cycles and its proven itself with durability and fuel mileage. Besides doubling lifespan we get about 2mpg better each fill up. At $4.15 a gallon, every little bit helps.
If I was picking a synthetic to switch to I would use:
Oil is oil. Syn oils are more durable. They have no effect on your seals. All oils have conditioners to keep seals and engines in good shape.
Your more likely to leak when you dont left the engine warm properly before hot rodding. No oil will help that.
There is no truth in that statement what so ever.
Molecules of conventional oil are all different sizes...big and small. So, think about it....synthetic are all the same size molecules that attaches the same way to the gaskets. Now...if you go from synthetic (same size molecules) back to conventional (different size molecules) oil will seep through the small holes that were once filled with big molecules. This causes leaking going from conventional to synthetic back to conventional. This may not happen in one day or even a week....but believe me it will happen! Understand?
And NO....oil is not oil. They make synthetic oils for a reason.
Im not here to have an internet based argument, so I will say this... I disagree.
Synthetic oil molecules, as far as I know, are smaller than that of dino oil and theoretically would be more prone to leak. But having used synthetics for 10 years I have found this to not be true.
That is why I dont "understand" your example. If anything I think it tends to lend evidence to avoid synthetics all together.
If we are dealing will leaks base on a molecular level then we are talking about a leak that is virtually undetectable. If your problem is more noticeable than a microscopic leakage then you have bad seals and no oil will fix that.
Those claims to me (again my opinion) tend to play in to myths. When I worked at a lube shop long ago I used to hear customer request 10/30 oil for their 5/30 car cause they had leaks. The were under the impression that the "thicker" oil leaked out less. Thats just untrue. All they were really doing is stressing their pumps and scarring their engines.
Again I aint here to argue I am just trying to make sure that someone who is new to changing oil and maintaining a car is not being misinformed. Year after year I hear the same stories... going on 20 years.
Adios
Quote:
Originally Posted by xlr8tin
Molecules of conventional oil are all different sizes...big and small. So, think about it....synthetic are all the same size molecules that attaches the same way to the gaskets. Now...if you go from synthetic (same size molecules) back to conventional (different size molecules) oil will seep through the small holes that were once filled with big molecules. This causes leaking going from conventional to synthetic back to conventional. This may not happen in one day or even a week....but believe me it will happen! Understand?
And NO....oil is not oil. They make synthetic oils for a reason.
You are entitled to your opinion. You say you worked at a lube shop a long time ago. Times have changed, and this doesn't make you right unless you are a master tech with all of your ASE certifications. I've gone through the schooling and do this for a living. B210 asked us when to switch to synthetic oil, who uses it and what brand.
If you don't like it, fine...this doesn't mean you know everything about it because you change oil 10+ years ago.
I'm sorry for making a big deal, but no one tells me I don't know what I'm talking about when I know I do, and have articles upon articles of literature to back me up.
The main thing here is to answer B210's question...I told him (Dan) what I used last and what has worked best for me. You barged in and said I'm a liar...you brought this upon yourself.
Synthetic oil (depending on the maker) is great oil. It creates less friction and heat and withstands higher loads without breaking down and losing it's structure. They are good with low and high temps, have a better viscosity index, and provide increased fuel economy, power, and lower oil consumption. Synthetic oils do not contain the mineral oil's wax and impurities, so they are better suited at low temps. Most conventional oils are rated at -38 degrees F, Synthetics are rated at -65 degree F.
All this to say, if the manufacturer asks for a certain oil and weight...use it. This goes for the people that aren't certain what to use. The one that know all about this stuff...you can figure it out.
Quote:
Originally Posted by whispanic
Im not here to have an internet based argument, so I will say this... I disagree.
Synthetic oil molecules, as far as I know, are smaller than that of dino oil and theoretically would be more prone to leak. But having used synthetics for 10 years I have found this to not be true.
That is why I dont "understand" your example. If anything I think it tends to lend evidence to avoid synthetics all together.
If we are dealing will leaks base on a molecular level then we are talking about a leak that is virtually undetectable. If your problem is more noticeable than a microscopic leakage then you have bad seals and no oil will fix that.
Those claims to me (again my opinion) tend to play in to myths. When I worked at a lube shop long ago I used to hear customer request 10/30 oil for their 5/30 car cause they had leaks. The were under the impression that the "thicker" oil leaked out less. Thats just untrue. All they were really doing is stressing their pumps and scarring their engines.
Again I aint here to argue I am just trying to make sure that someone who is new to changing oil and maintaining a car is not being misinformed. Year after year I hear the same stories... going on 20 years.
You are entitled to your opinion. You say you worked at a lube shop a long time ago. Times have changed, and this doesn't make you right unless you are a master tech with all of your ASE certifications. I've gone through the schooling and do this for a living. B210 asked us when to switch to synthetic oil, who uses it and what brand.
If you don't like it, fine...this doesn't mean you know everything about it because you change oil 10+ years ago.
I'm sorry for making a big deal, but no one tells me I don't know what I'm talking about when I know I do, and have articles upon articles of literature to back me up.
The main thing here is to answer B210's question...I told him (Dan) what I used last and what has worked best for me. You barged in and said I'm a liar...you brought this upon yourself.
Synthetic oil (depending on the maker) is great oil. It creates less friction and heat and withstands higher loads without breaking down and losing it's structure. They are good with low and high temps, have a better viscosity index, and provide increased fuel economy, power, and lower oil consumption. Synthetic oils do not contain the mineral oil's wax and impurities, so they are better suited at low temps. Most conventional oils are rated at -38 degrees F, Synthetics are rated at -65 degree F.
All this to say, if the manufacturer asks for a certain oil and weight...use it. This goes for the people that aren't certain what to use. The one that know all about this stuff...you can figure it out.
Right on Dude.
I'm all for synthetics, never said I wasn't.
Again not here to argue with you so I will end my replys at this point.
If you felt I was attacking you, that was not my intention, so I will apologize for that.
Thanks for the input guys. I appreciate how you are able to debate over synthetic oil in a civilized manner. Lots of good info there. There is an old saying in the automotive repair industry that says if you ask five mechanics the same question, you will recieve five different answers LOL.
dan
If you want scientific, "real world" analysis on oil, try using Blackstone Labs.
For $20, they will do a complete test of the oil sample that you provide to them.
First, take the regular OEM oil that came in your vehicle and run 3,500-4,000 miles before oil changes. Do this a couple of times before you switch to synthetic. Send in the sample to get a baseline result. Then switch to synthetic and repeat the process.
In my Nissan Titan, I switched to Amsoil 0W-30 full synthetic after the first 10,000 miles. The Amsoil was head and shoulders better than the regular OEM oil that came in the truck. It ran smoother and cooler. And the results backed that up! With synthetic, I usually go 5,500 miles between oil changes.
Additionally, I run Amoil 75W-140 Severe Gear oil in my rear differential (after having installed a larger Stillen diff cover.) The diff runs a lot cooler than before.
One thing to note: in comparative testing, the Nissan OEM oil filter outperformed the majority of aftermarket oil filters out there (which was a total surprise to me!) I believe the Purolator filters were the worst. Best aftermarket choices would be the Wix.
Blackstone Labs are EXPENSIVE compared to Dyson. For $20, Blackstone won't tell you if your oil change interval is OK or you can go longer/go shorter. Dyson's is $60, includes everything Blackstone does and THEN some. I say Blackstone is expensive because Terry @ Dyson will offer personalized advice for your oil sample. Basically he will be "tuning" your engine. I was skeptical, thinking 60 bucks is a lot of money for a used oil analysis, but, as a first oil analysis I would go with nobody else. If everything comes back fine, you can then change to Blackstone.
My Subie, after going through winter on a Mobil 1 5W30 Syn change, burned that sucker like there was no tomorrow. Flashpoint was 275, I also had some fuel dillution. While that was not the fault of the oil, Mobil 1 turns out to not hold up that good to fuel dillution. A better oil at that is Pennzoil Platinum.
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Blackstone Labs are EXPENSIVE compared to Dyson. For $20, Blackstone won't tell you if your oil change interval is OK or you can go longer/go shorter. Dyson's is $60, includes everything Blackstone does and THEN some. I say Blackstone is expensive because Terry @ Dyson will offer personalized advice for your oil sample. Basically he will be "tuning" your engine. I was skeptical, thinking 60 bucks is a lot of money for a used oil analysis, but, as a first oil analysis I would go with nobody else. If everything comes back fine, you can then change to Blackstone.
Thanks for the info. I will have to give Dyson a try.
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