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I have replaced brake pads before on a older truck but I now have a 05 Altima 3.5 and need to replace the front brake pads, I have heard that messing around with the brakes on these newer model cars can cause the check engine light to come on and something has to be reset, is this true? Can't I just take off the caliper, use a C clamp to push the piston back in and put in the new pads? Any recommendantions on what pads to buy? I also live in canada so a canadian store would be helpful on where to buy.
Leave the caliper bolted on. Slide a flat head screwdriver in between the brake pad and rotor. Dig into the pad side more so u don't disfigure the rotor. Then pull the flathead towards the outside of the car repetitively until the piston pushes back. It's like 10X faster then unbolting and c-clamping it. Then toss the old pads, grease up the backside of the new one's and presto.
Same for the back, no twisting, or clamping.
The Altima is seriously easy to change the pads. You'll spend more time bolting and unbolting the rims. hehe...
And the check light thing is some BS disinformation.
I used Monroe ceramic pads on the front of my Altima with the stock rotors for about a year now. There may be better performance pads out there, but these work well and seem easy on the rotors, are quiet and they dust very little. Canadian Tire sells the Monroe brake parts.
Its a regular brake job, nothing special..but Canadian winters and road salt are killer on brakes. Take the extra time to clean and lube the sliding pins and other contact areas. Inspect/replace the shims, the pad return spring and use some anti-squeal compound on the back of the pads (the Monroe pads come with a tube). That will ensure your brakes stay free and quiet.
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'03 3.5SE MT
Avg MPG calculated over last 16214 miles: 26.94mpg
Best/Worst MPG calculated: 32.294mpg / 23.404mpg
However you retract the piston though, don't forget to uncap the reservior, and put a rag around it to stop any overflow fluid from dripping out.
Quote:
Originally Posted by S3AN GOTTI
It's like 10X faster then unbolting and c-clamping it.
You will already have the lower bolt undone to change the pads out (the piston will be "swung" up) - so if you have a c-clamp, use it. Pic is a little cut off, but you get the idea.
__________________ Bone stock with Powerslots, Valeo's and tint.
However you retract the piston though, don't forget to uncap the reservior, and put a rag around it to stop any overflow fluid from dripping out.
Won't happen if you turn the C clamp very slowly..
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See Wild Willy for your:
*04-05 Dead Pedal Insert Ready
*Custom Brushed Aluminum Dead *5Speed and Auto (Alti & Max)
* Will Make custom Applications Wild Willy's Pedals
*Bumper Plugs
Garage:
* 91 MR2 31K miles 4 Sale
*02 SE Auto (AT Upper Lower Lux. Grills) 4sale
*04 Honda Odyssey (9.67mpg)
*04 GTO 6MT(Beater) Gone
Yeah, it never overflowed on me either...force of hablt from my previous vehicles...
Just have to be patient
__________________
See Wild Willy for your:
*04-05 Dead Pedal Insert Ready
*Custom Brushed Aluminum Dead *5Speed and Auto (Alti & Max)
* Will Make custom Applications Wild Willy's Pedals
*Bumper Plugs
Garage:
* 91 MR2 31K miles 4 Sale
*02 SE Auto (AT Upper Lower Lux. Grills) 4sale
*04 Honda Odyssey (9.67mpg)
*04 GTO 6MT(Beater) Gone
However you retract the piston though, don't forget to uncap the reservior, and put a rag around it to stop any overflow fluid from dripping out.
You will already have the lower bolt undone to change the pads out (the piston will be "swung" up) - so if you have a c-clamp, use it. Pic is a little cut off, but you get the idea.
I guess it's all in your preference then. I think there is a less amount of force required to retract the piston when it is completely bolted up and you use a flat head. I mean it literally takes like 15 seconds to retract the caliper piston.
But to combine methods: Like use the flat head to retract the piston then unbolt only 1 bolt and swing up would save even more time.
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