Front Brake Install (3rd Gen) - Nissan Forums : Nissan Forum
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Old 07-03-2008, 03:51 AM
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Front Brake Install (3rd Gen)

TO THE MODERATORS : DOES THIS FIT THE BILL FOR A STICKY ?

i figured that since i had to redo my front brakes again i would post pics and instructions for everyone . these pics are from my 2006 altima 3.5 SE .

the first part is pics and instructions on doing a simple brake pad change , enjoy :
TOOLS NEEDED :
1 : 14MM WRENCH
2 : CALIPER TOOL (brake pad spreader) OR A BIG C-CLAMP . I WOULD SUGGEST THE CALIPER TOOL ITS $9.99 IN SEARS
Craftsman Disc Brake Pad Spreader - Model 47365 at Sears.com

if your rotors have an OIL anti-rust coating , you have to remove this with brake cleaner/de-greaser . i didn't because my rotors were zinc plated , but most OEM replacements have oil on them .

STEP 1 : LOOSEN YOUR LUG NUTS , ONLY ABOUT 1 TURN

STEP 2 : JACK UP YOUR CAR

STEP 3 : REMOVE YOUR LUG NUTS , REMOVE YOUR WHEEL

STEP 4 : LOOSEN UPPER CALIPER BOLT (JUST A LITTLE , 1-2 TURNS) PIC # 1

STEP 5 : REMOVE LOWER CALIPER BOLT PIC # 2

STEP 6 : SWING CALIPER UP PIC # 3

STEP 7 : WHILE CALIPER IS IN THE UP POSITION USE THE CALIPER TOOL TO PUSH THE PISTON BACK IN , PUT ONE OF THE OLD BRAKE PADS ON THE CALIPER SO THE SPREADER HAS SOMETHING TO PUSH ON PIC # 4

STEP 8 : PUT NEW BRAKE PADS IN THE CALIPER BRACKET

STEP 9 : SWING THE CALIPER BACK IN POSITION AND RE-INSTALL THE LOWER CALIPER BOLT AND TIGHTEN THE TOP CALIPER BOLT

YOUR DONE , RE-INSTALL YOUR WHEEL AND LOWER THE CAR , MAKE SURE YOU TIGHTEN ALL THE BOLTS , TWICE , TO MAKE SURE THEY'RE TIGHT .

PIC # 1



PIC # 2



PIC # 3



PIC # 4


SCROLL DOWN FOR ROTOR INSTALL

MY AUTO BLOG (COMPLETE WITH INSTALLS).

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Last edited by jimnolimit; 09-01-2010 at 02:10 AM.
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  #2  
Old 07-03-2008, 05:46 AM
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very nice!

Quote:
Originally Posted by altimatelyebony09 View Post
And damn those are some big rotor thingy magigies.
  #3  
Old 07-03-2008, 07:24 AM
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NOW FOR PART 2 :

TO INSTALL NEW ROTORS AND PADS , YOU WILL NEED :
1 : EVERYTHING IN THE FIRST POST
2 : A 19MM SOCKET/RATCHET (2 people reported to me that they had 22mm bolts on there caliper mounting bracket , mine were 19mm )

IF YOU READ THE FIRST PART ON HOW TO CHANGE THE PADS , YOUR 1-2 MINS AWAY FROM CHANGING ROTORS . SO WITH YOUR CAR JACKED UP AND YOUR WHEEL OFF

STEP 1 : REMOVE BOTH CALIPER BOLTS FROM PICS # 1 AND PIC # 2 , PUT THE CALIPER ON TOP . PIC # 5

STEP 2 : REMOVE THE PADS . PIC # 6

STEP 3 : THEN REMOVE THE CALIPER BRACKET , DO THIS WITH THE 19MM SOCKET , REMOVE THE 2 MOUNTING BOLTS . PIC # 7 AND PIC # 8 . IF THE BOLTS ARE TOO TIGHT USE A PIPE OR EVEN THE STOCK LUG WRENCH TO GAIN LEVERAGE , PLEASE DON'T HURT YOURSELF !!!

STEP 4 : WITH THE CALIPER BRACKET OFF THE ROTOR WILL JUST COME RIGHT OFF , INSTALL THE NEW ROTOR PIC # 9

STEP 5 : INSTALL THE CALIPER BRACKET , THEN THE BRAKE PADS , THEN THE CALIPER

YOUR DONE , PUT THE WHEEL BACK ON LOWER THE CAR
MAKE SURE YOU TIGHTEN THE LUG NUTS , TWICE , TO MAKE SURE THERE TIGHT

PIC # 5


PIC # 6


PIC # 7


PIC # 8


PIC # 9


WARNING : DON'T LET THE CALIPER HANG BY THE BRAKE HOSE !!! YOU CAN USE A PIECE OF STRING , A METAL COAT HANGER , SOMEONE CAN HOLD IT FOR YOU , WHATEVER METHOD YOU LIKE .

WARNING : DON'T GET ANY GREASE ON THE ROTOR'S BRAKING SURFACE OR THE FACE OF THE BRAKE PADS !!! THAT WOULD CAUSE GLAZING ON THE ROTORS WHEN YOU USE THEM , GLAZED ROTORS = LESS BREAKING ABILITY !!! IF YOU GET GREASE ON THE ROTOR USE BRAKE DE-GREASER .

MY AUTO BLOG (COMPLETE WITH INSTALLS).

http://jimsautoeverything.blogspot.com/

Last edited by jimnolimit; 09-01-2010 at 02:18 AM.
  #4  
Old 07-03-2008, 08:04 AM
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so far i've used 4 sets of brake pads on my car :

2 sets of factory nissan pads : there decent pads and they last the longest but under hard use they will fade quicker than the others , i got 10,000 miles out of the first set (i babied the car more) and about 7500-8000 out of the second set

1 set of ebc red's : the ebc's had a really good initial bite and good fade resistance but wore out the fastest 4500-4600 miles

1 set of axxis ultimate : the axxis ultimates had a good initial bite and similar fade resistance to the ebc's , they wore out in 5700 miles

i had drilled and slotted rotors on my car for the life of the axxis pads here is a pic (i'll try to take a better one) :




i started to get stress cracks around the holes , the cracks aren't bad , but they exist , i only got cracks on the wheel side of the rotor , the dust shield side had none . i switched to slotted only just because i am too hard on my brakes and i didn't want to find out if more cracks would happen .

whenever i drive hard , which is everyday , i never park my car right after hard running , i always drive 1-1.5 miles mostly just coasting at 20-25 mph to let everything cool down .

right now i have slotted rotors and hawk HPS pads on the car , i put them on today , i will keep everyone updated on how i like them


*added 5/30/09*
i don't like the hawk HPS pads ! they have a weak bite when cold , once warmed up they work farely good , id say like stock pads maybe a little better , but once i push them more they fade and work less again . the hawk HPS pads window of proper operation isn't very big , i would rather put a set of factory pads on because they have a better cold bite and they can take just as much heat as the hawks before fading .

MY AUTO BLOG (COMPLETE WITH INSTALLS).

http://jimsautoeverything.blogspot.com/

Last edited by jimnolimit; 05-30-2009 at 08:23 PM.
  #5  
Old 07-03-2008, 03:04 PM
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I baby my brakes- I'm at 42K with the original set, and just now having to change them- AWESOME post! this will be so helpful!


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Old 07-03-2008, 04:25 PM
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Great writeup with pics... I need to start looking into working on my brakes soon.

+1 for sticky/FAQ!!



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Old 07-03-2008, 06:57 PM
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nice write up but it wouldve been nicer if u squeezed the pics into each instruction rather than instructions first then pics at the end

"Sorry Gramps, My Altima's Nicer Than Yours"

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Old 07-03-2008, 10:51 PM
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What you missed here:
1. Clean rotors with brake cleaner - they come with anti-rust treatment from factory.
2. Cross drilled rotors are more show than go and should be avoided if driving hard due to the cracking that we all see in above picture. Advertisement says that cross drilled lets gases escape. Sorry, that has not been applicable for decades now.

.
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Old 07-03-2008, 11:17 PM
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wheres the part about putting that lube thing on the metal plate to keep the brakes from vibrating and making noise

"Sorry Gramps, My Altima's Nicer Than Yours"

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  #10  
Old 07-04-2008, 12:20 AM
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I got new brakes put in last week, RTP slotted rotors and OE pads. I think I might switch over to Hawk pads though next time to try them out.

And yea, you should put brake grease on the back of the pad, in between the shims, and on the piston... it keeps the noise down.
Also just some extra advice torque your lugs with a torque wrench, 80ft/lbs for Alloy rims. If you have steelies im not sure how much.

Also, those look like RTP rotors. For the first couple days did you have pulsation??? I did but it went away after a 100 miles.


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Old 07-04-2008, 08:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by herman View Post
What you missed here:
1. Clean rotors with brake cleaner - they come with anti-rust treatment from factory.
2. Cross drilled rotors are more show than go and should be avoided if driving hard due to the cracking that we all see in above picture. Advertisement says that cross drilled lets gases escape. Sorry, that has not been applicable for decades now.
1. as far as cleaning rotors , yes and no , for regular OE style non-plated rotors , yes you should clean them with brake cleaner , but i got zinc plated rotors , they don't have an anti-rust coating because the zinc is the coating .

2. i do not recommend cross-drilled only rotors because they promote uneven pad wear and they don't effectively sweep the pad dust clean . as far as drilled/slotted they should be ok for normal people who don't beat up there brakes but then they wouldn't need any cooling advantage the drilling gives you . i had some micro cracks but nothing that would weaken the rotor and i only noticed the cracks on the wheel side , there were none on the suspension side , but this was after 1 set of axxis ultimate pads that i wore out in 5700 miles , i took D/S rotors off because i didn't know how they would be after 2 or 3 sets of pads . that leaves us with slotted only and plain rotors which are both good , with the slotted rotors you also get the pad swept clean as you use them which gives you a fresh bite all the time .

MY AUTO BLOG (COMPLETE WITH INSTALLS).

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  #12  
Old 07-04-2008, 09:05 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saywat? View Post
wheres the part about putting that lube thing on the metal plate to keep the brakes from vibrating and making noise
i have never used any lube or grease of any kind and my brakes never squeak . there are 2 metal shims that are on the OE pads , a smaller one that goes on first then a larger one that clips on to the pad , i just use the larger one that clips on , most after market pads have the small shim permanently bonded to the pads back plate , i just remove the large shim from the old pads and just reinstall it on the new pads and i don't grease anything .

look on the pad in the pic , you'll see the metal clip-on shim :


MY AUTO BLOG (COMPLETE WITH INSTALLS).

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Last edited by jimnolimit; 07-04-2008 at 09:28 AM.
  #13  
Old 07-04-2008, 09:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dims View Post
1. I got new brakes put in last week, RTP slotted rotors and OE pads. I think I might switch over to Hawk pads though next time to try them out.

2. And yea, you should put brake grease on the back of the pad, in between the shims, and on the piston... it keeps the noise down.

3. Also, those look like RTP rotors. For the first couple days did you have pulsation??? I did but it went away after a 100 miles.
1. so far the hawk hps pads are not living up to there name , i still have some more testing to do on them , but after the weekend if i still don't like them i'll be calling hawk .

2. i have never used grease , and my brakes don't squeak .

3. both rotors (drilled/slotted and slotted only) are from RTP , they pulsate until there broken in , its normal , 100 miles ? did you bed them in ? if so how did you bed them in ?

MY AUTO BLOG (COMPLETE WITH INSTALLS).

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  #14  
Old 07-04-2008, 12:54 PM
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Great writeup jimnolimit......I'm sure this will get used over-and-over.

Like dims said, +1 for the torque wrench. Uneven torque on the wheel lugnuts can lead to warped rotors. While you have the torque wrench out, the caliper bracket bolts should get 53-72 ft-lbs and the caliper slide bolts should get 16-23 ft-lbs.

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  #15  
Old 07-05-2008, 10:37 AM
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I was surprised how fast my axxis ULT pads went, felt as if I just put them.
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