Swap questions

[B3rSeRk3r{ViP}]

Any other parts i should change, so far i got, Oil pan, then i found ROD bearings for 50$, I read somewhere but i cant remeber, top and bottom gaskets, im still trying to find out wut to change, then il buy the S3 cams, and if i go internal wut else should i do there, new springs maybe? dont have unlimited funds. s3 cams, and would like that to be it.

Also i read about you can boost stock sr turbo up to like 13 psi and make 250rwhp, did i missunderstood something there?

Any info would be great. thanx

Sorri for maeking new thread :S

[Ace]

Originally Posted by B3rSeRk3r{ViP}

Any other parts i should change, so far i got, Oil pan, then i found ROD bearings for 50$, I read somewhere but i cant remeber, top and bottom gaskets, im still trying to find out wut to change, then il buy the S3 cams, and if i go internal wut else should i do there, new springs maybe? dont have unlimited funds. s3 cams, and would like that to be it.

Also i read about you can boost stock sr turbo up to like 13 psi and make 250rwhp, did i missunderstood something there?

Any info would be great. thanx

Sorri for maeking new thread :S

Hey bud:

First off, you need a gameplan. What power levels do you want to have, what size turbo you want etc etc etc...

As far as the swap, you're going to need to have your harness converted to run whatever platform (engine).


If I were you, I'd tear down the entire engine, get a engine gasket kit, and go from there. Just because an engine recieved the 'simple green' overhaul, doesn't mean all is koesher inside.


Remember, 300 whp is going to be silly fast in an s13, and that 400+whp is attainable on a stock exhaust manifold with cams and intake manifold...

[Ace]

Also read the sticky

http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/sr2...ade-guide.html

[B3rSeRk3r{ViP}]

In a week im going to buy a s14 doing, my game plan so far is change oil pan get S3 cams, i was reading they will fit s14 sr20det(your Sticky) I now know il get a gasket kit.

Im sorry i did missunderstood, i thought it said i can Boost Stock turbo from Sr engine to 13 psi, i was wrong so its ok still a niewbie, so scratch that. id like to do the cams and gasket kit b4 i put the engine in the S14, that is all there proly will be left this summer, not driving in winter, just upgrading it, the turbo other parts of the car. This might be a very noob question, but i was just wondering wut should i do b4 i put in the engine(change parts ect) so i dont have to pull it out once i upgrade the turbo.

And as i took from ur advice 400whp is atainable with cams and intake manifold,

I'l c how that goes on 1st step is the swap, sr20 with new cams and gasket kit+ Rod Bearings+oil pan+water pump, tha tis my game plan so far.

Thanx for ur advice very greatly appreciated, and i will go read that sticky again

[SOCIAL DAMAGE]

you are going to need to pipe an intercooler, if your not running one your dumber than a brick.

second you need to upgrade the fuel pump, a walboro 255lph is more than enough.

third be sure you have an safc controller or a good sr20 mafs, if not you'll be having headaches like me. i just fried my mafs on my sr and now i'm looking for an safc controller so i can run my 300zx tt mafs to get the damn thing running.

and also with s3 cams your going to have to do new valve springs i'm running ferrera's now and they are awesome, no knocks nothing.

and 400hp is probally not attainable safely with just cams and what not, along with those cams you'll need larger injectors, a fuel pressure regulator and adaptor that goes on the end of your fuel rail. you do just cams that have a good duration but your still putting the same amount of fuel in there you run the risk of leaning out the motor.

i see it as this, engines are like a brick wall, one set supports the next,and so on, or with engines, one system supports the next. so if you are upping your intake and exhaust flow with cams your are disrupting the system that is supporting it by changing it around. so what i'm saying here is get the cams but hold off and wait to put them in until you know 150%, that the motor can support running those cams. i think if your on a budget get the motor running, getit to where it will support upgrades and then do the upgrades.

i saw a kid at nopi last week end that had a descently built sr20 with cams injectors and and he had his stock exhaust still on there with a fart can at the end. yes, cams maybe great, but even the best cams on the market will do very little with the stock exhaust inhibiting flow and just creating massive back pressure.

i'm run 345 on stock cams and s15 injectors, a rs enthalapy reflash and some other odds and ends. now does this motor have bad rod bearings because you keep mentioning them and i don't really know why.

so to conclude, get the motor running properly, do the basic upgrades, like exhaust, intake, clutch, a good set of plugs, i'm running denso irridiums in mine and they work like a champ, get this motor to the point where if you upgrade one thing you can use that upgrade and get the most out of it.

400 hp on an sr is atainable with stock internals, but not safe with just a new turbo and stock injectors. i have just bough another 240 w/ sr and the kid that i bought it from didn't know a spark plug from a lug nut. ist a mess, and he prolly did more damage by not knowing what he was doing than anything else would. so, take my advice i used to be liek you, buy an sr20 and just start throwing parts on hopping liek hell it makes it faster. if it was that easy there would be more people doing it that what there is. so i hope i helped in a way, if you need any kind of direction or insight, or just some advice let me know, i have an sr and i am currently one of the most up comming drifters in stl. so let me know how it turns out.

[Ace]

Originally Posted by SOCIAL DAMAGE

second you need to upgrade the fuel pump, a walboro 255lph is more than enough.

Good advice. No need to 're invent' the wheel. Do get the high pressure varient however

Originally Posted by SOCIAL DAMAGE

third be sure you have an safc controller or a good sr20 mafs, if not you'll be having headaches like me. i just fried my mafs on my sr and now i'm looking for an safc controller so i can run my 300zx tt mafs to get the damn thing running.

By getting a Jim Wolf ECU or RS Enthalpy ECU, you will not need an safc at all. Tell Clark (JWT) or Scott (Enthalpy) what you have (injectors/maf/mods) and they'll make it all work for you

Originally Posted by SOCIAL DAMAGE

and also with s3 cams your going to have to do new valve springs i'm running ferrera's now and they are awesome, no knocks nothing.

Wrong wrong wrong. All Jim Wolf 'S' series cams DO NOT need or require valvespring replacment. Jim wolf 'C' series cams however, do require an upgrade. S3's are probably the most common (and best) midrange SR cam in the world for good reason

Originally Posted by SOCIAL DAMAGE

and 400hp is probally not attainable safely with just cams and what not, along with those cams you'll need larger injectors, a fuel pressure regulator and adaptor that goes on the end of your fuel rail. you do just cams that have a good duration but your still putting the same amount of fuel in there you run the risk of leaning out the motor.

Good points. A simple chart for 400 crank hp: FMIC, ECU 60lbs Fuel Injectors, 255 pump, S3 cams, Greddy Intake, GT2871r/GT3071r at 18 psi, Stock exhaust manifold, 3" full exhaust

Originally Posted by SOCIAL DAMAGE

i see it as this, engines are like a brick wall, one set supports the next,and so on, or with engines, one system supports the next. so if you are upping your intake and exhaust flow with cams your are disrupting the system that is supporting it by changing it around. so what i'm saying here is get the cams but hold off and wait to put them in until you know 150%, that the motor can support running those cams. i think if your on a budget get the motor running, getit to where it will support upgrades and then do the upgrades.

Very good point. Without changing cams, you can run a gt28rs or a t3/t4 and you'll only get 330ish WHP no matter what boost on stock cams and intake manifold.

Originally Posted by SOCIAL DAMAGE

i saw a kid at nopi last week end that had a descently built sr20 with cams injectors and and he had his stock exhaust still on there with a fart can at the end. yes, cams maybe great, but even the best cams on the market will do very little with the stock exhaust inhibiting flow and just creating massive back pressure.

Also remember that Catalytic converters are a backpressure inducing pig.

Originally Posted by SOCIAL DAMAGE

so to conclude, get the motor running properly, do the basic upgrades, like exhaust, intake, clutch, a good set of plugs, i'm running denso irridiums in mine and they work like a champ, get this motor to the point where if you upgrade one thing you can use that upgrade and get the most out of it.

Well said. Check all vitals first, and ensure everythign is in spec

Originally Posted by SOCIAL DAMAGE

so, take my advice i used to be liek you, buy an sr20 and just start throwing parts on hopping liek hell it makes it faster. if it was that easy there would be more people doing it that what there is.

Werd. A perfect combination of parts with a t2 based turbo is going to net you a mid to high 11 second 1/4 mile car, that is a beast on the street as well.

[SOCIAL DAMAGE]

Originally Posted by Ace

Good advice. No need to 're invent' the wheel. Do get the high pressure varient however



By getting a Jim Wolf ECU or RS Enthalpy ECU, you will not need an safc at all. Tell Clark (JWT) or Scott (Enthalpy) what you have (injectors/maf/mods) and they'll make it all work for you



Wrong wrong wrong. All Jim Wolf 'S' series cams DO NOT need or require valvespring replacment. Jim wolf 'C' series cams however, do require an upgrade. S3's are probably the most common (and best) midrange SR cam in the world for good reason



Good points. A simple chart for 400 crank hp: FMIC, ECU 60lbs Fuel Injectors, 255 pump, S3 cams, Greddy Intake, GT2871r/GT3071r at 18 psi, Stock exhaust manifold, 3" full exhaust



Very good point. Without changing cams, you can run a gt28rs or a t3/t4 and you'll only get 330ish WHP no matter what boost on stock cams and intake manifold.



Also remember that Catalytic converters are a backpressure inducing pig.



Well said. Check all vitals first, and ensure everythign is in spec



Werd. A perfect combination of parts with a t2 based turbo is going to net you a mid to high 11 second 1/4 mile car, that is a beast on the street as well.

YEAH BUT AN SAFC CONTROLLER IS HALF THE PRICE OF A REFLASH AND YOU CAN TUNE IT TO YOUR LIKINGS! THAST WHY I WENT THAT COURSE. ADN IF YOU DO GO FOR A REFLASH CHECK OUT BATLGROUND ENGINEERING, THERE OUT OF ATLANTA BUT THEIR ECU'S ROCK. I KNOW I JUST BOUGHT ONE THAT I AM PUTTING IN WHEN IT GETS BACK.

[Ace]

Originally Posted by SOCIAL DAMAGE

YEAH BUT AN SAFC CONTROLLER IS HALF THE PRICE OF A REFLASH AND YOU CAN TUNE IT TO YOUR LIKINGS! THAST WHY I WENT THAT COURSE. ADN IF YOU DO GO FOR A REFLASH CHECK OUT BATLGROUND ENGINEERING, THERE OUT OF ATLANTA BUT THEIR ECU'S ROCK. I KNOW I JUST BOUGHT ONE THAT I AM PUTTING IN WHEN IT GETS BACK.

In my opinion, as a friend also says, SAFC's are 'dial a booms'. Unless you properly dyno them with an air fuel, you never really do know what you have. I know all about street tuning, and have 2 friends that have oddball turbo cars that have relied on that (mainly due to no dynos in the area), but even they admitted it's not right.


So with that said you have JWT which is 600 list..take out stock ecu, and put that in, and your done

or

SAFC for 300 dollars, and then another 200-300 to tune it...+ the aggrevation and time of getting it setup correctly.

Your car, but you know with JWT you have support, it's tuned correctly, and won't blow up or possibly change.


JWT, Enthalpy, or Calum are also the only ECU's that I would remotely trust in the US. Just my opinion! Certainly your car may or may not run on one of those crazy 'Mines' or 'CircutSports' JDM ecus, but they are not tuned on 93 US octane...further making me shy away from them!

[B3rSeRk3r{ViP}]

Thanx alot, for all that info. Im 99% sure im going to buy that S14 tomarow, then i have to sell my other turbo kit, and il buy the Sr20 engine, from what i see the upgrades are ganna cost alot, and its ok.

And running stock SR engine without an intercooler is stupid then?, I guess il have to buy that too. hehe i guess i wont have this car running by end of this summer I am tryin to figure out wut what internal parts to change b4 i put in the engine. As well as external engine parts. I was thinking keeping stock turbo this summer and then upgrade to a diff turbo next summer. But i do want to get my SR running in good condision, so i dont have head aches all summer. Any more info u got for a nub plz post and thanx again.

[SOCIAL DAMAGE]

well if you buy a good sr from a respectable dealer, there shouldn't be much problem to getting it running good. and internals, unless you are wanting like 500hp out of this motor, which i say would be risky, you can keep the stock internals. in fact alot of the formula d guys that drive sr20s keep the stock internals and just rebuild the heads. and you can get a descent inter cooler from ebay for pretty cheap and they work just as well as a greddy. alot of my guys are runnin tha set up adn just replace the crappy top tubing peices that they come with. if you are on a budget i would look for a godspeed fmic kit. the lower pipes, lower meaning the ones in front of the radiator support, are thick wall cast aluminum, and the cold pipe, and hot pipes are the only things you shoud have to replace. and if you don't wanna go that rout than just get the stock sr20 side mount intercooler and use that until you can afford a fmic. and yes the stock turbo is good to 15psi but 13 would be a good safe number to sit at.just remeber that not every thing that you find for cheap, is not going to be reliable. good luck, let us know if you run into any snags. i can probally help, because i prolly hit them when i did my swap.

[B3rSeRk3r{ViP}]

Thanx alot for the info, il proly buy the IC right away, I did buy the car today, ganna start stripping interior up tomarow and so on(bad shape some parts) And do some extra work on it, should be purchasing an sr20 soon too cant wait

[SOCIAL DAMAGE]

good move pipe the ic when to motor is not in the car, makes it so much easier. and depending on is you are keepin the a/c, if you aer not i would just take out the ac condensor between the radiator and the rad. support, i just knocked mine out with a sledge hammer, it was fun because it took like 3 whacks. there are also alot of other things to do while the motor is out, like get the whole car painted. thats a good one that i wish i would have done when i had the chance because i now have one color choice, black. if you need some good help with the swap go to heavythrottle.com and look at thier faq's and swap guide section it helps alot, i used that when doing my swap. but yeah good luck.

[B3rSeRk3r{ViP}]

Im getting rid of my A/C not ganna paint the car its fine as it is. My car is Black my favorite color on the car I'm ganna go read some more thanx for the info

[SOCIAL DAMAGE]

good news... for those wanting reflashes on their ecu's. batlground engineering is now tuning ecu's and according to dyno results their ecu nets more whp than the jwt and is backed by a lifetime gaurantee. i'm buyin a new ecu and havin them reflash it and then i'm installing a piggy back system so that i can actually tune it on adrenilines dyno. i get free runs now, yay! i picked up another sponsor and am now workin with drft mafia clothing for a
5th. but yeah check out batlground, they use their own ecu's in their drift cars, and their owners are their drivers. you can prolly catch them at the nopi events this summer. they are seriously awesome. check em out if you care.

[B3rSeRk3r{ViP}]

From where can i exactly purchase these ecu's?