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Old 02-11-2012, 11:08 PM
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Morimoto MH1 Projector Install

First off, this install applies mostly to the 00-1, however I'm sure that the 98-99 guys with 2 piece headlights can use this too since the headlamp housing's are pretty much the same dimensions.

If you've got a 1st gen and are doing this, here's the thread for you, (http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/gen...s-1st-gen.html)

I am in no way responsible if you mess up your OE housings or your projectors while doing this.

First things first. What you'll need,

-Morimoto Mini H1/D2S Stage III kit from TheRetrofitSource
The D2S variant can use an OE ballast and uses OE bulbs but it produces a lot more foreground lighting and is generally considered the worse of the two projectors.

-Dremel/Rotary tool with cutoff and sanding wheels
-rubbing alcohol
-Spare set of headlamps

That's it!. The TRS kit includes the projectors, ballast's, bulb's, relay harness, and shrouds for the projectors. Halo rings are an option as well but I chose not to go that route.

Now what's optional is,
-buytl rope
-various paint

I remember way back when I first joined NC there were a couple guys who had done retrofit's, but at the time they were a relatively unknown mod and required hacking apart a housing to mount the projector and if the projector was not rotated properly then all that work you may have just done to your housing that may or may not be undoable was all for naught since the projector would have to be adjusted again. And the other issue was bi-xenon projectors did not exist yet so for those like us that use a dual filament bulb, say bye bye to your high beams. These members were Racing Gear, Coach, and later on Glenn14. If you look over on HID Planet you can find Racing Gear and Coach's retrofit threads.

Thankfully like most things in the automotive world, the aftermarket gets ahold of it, tweaks it, reproduces it, and makes it cheaper and more affordable. Now, affordable is a relative term. These bulbs and ballasts are not your cheap eBay or DDM quality. These are about as close to OE as you can get with an aftermarket setup. Now, I'm not knocking DDM at all, they provide very cheap PnP HID kit's. But their longevity is hit or miss.

These projectors are as close to PnP as you can get. However, with that said, with our headlamps you will still need to cut part of the halogen reflector which will make them useless if you ever decide to try and put them back to stock. Keep that in mind when doing this project. That is why I bought spare housings.

Now, what you'll wanna do is first bake open your headlights. If you don't know how, here's the FAQ on it, (http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/f-q...ts-w-pics.html).

Once you have them baked open, now is the time to paint the housing if you so choose to. Just follow blackalti's steps and you'll be fine.

The spare headlights that I bought were already prepainted and precut for the MH1 projectors from the previous owner. However I wanted to make sure that the black on the housing would match the black on the halogen reflector bowl. So I took this opportunity to respray the housings.

Now that you have the lens and housing separated from the actual headlamp you're going to need to remove the reflecting shield from the halogen reflector. This step I can not comment on since my housings were already modified. However this is what they should look like when done.



Once you have the shield removed you need to test fit the projector and mark where the solenoid for the bi-xenon function will sit.



Closer view.



Without the reflector bowl being cut the projector will not sit flat and you will be unable to complete the install.

All of these cuts are completely hidden when everything is reinstalled. So if you follow what's done here you will have no issues. Theoretically that is.

Once all of your cuts are made to the reflector bowl it's time to mount the projector inside the housing so you will know how much you need to trim off of the shrouds.

Here's the top part of the shroud cut down.



And the bottom portion.



When cutting your shrouds be very careful. There IS a top and a bottom to these and the plastic is semi-flimsy. If necessary make multiple small cuts, test fit, and try again.

Back of the shroud.



Notice how the lower 2 mounting holes are wider than the upper? That's how you know which is the top and bottom.

Once you have the shrouds cut to size it's time to take the projector back out and begin final installation. Assemble the shrouds onto the projector with the supplied hardware first. Now take your rubbing alcohol and wipe down the housing. There's no sense in leaving dust or finger prints showing after all this hard work. Then take the supplied silicone washer and stick it on the backside of the projector. This washer will serve to help lock the projector in place as well as to help absorb shocks while driving down the road. Now insert the whole assembly through the housing. Next, take the supplied 9007 adapter plate and line it up with the projector. These plates are supplied to take the guessing out of the installation. However, if your 9007 mounting tabs do not line up perfectly it will result in an off level installation. If you do decide to use it be careful not to damage the threads on the projector and not to pinch the solenoid wires as well.

Now take your locking ring and carefully thread it on. The threads are relatively fine and have been known to cross thread easily. Once you have the projector mounted it's time to install the bulb and the bulb holder assembly. Once that's done take your headlight out to your car, do a rough install without the lens on to make any final adjustments prior to resealing the headlamps.

Once your final adjustments are made, remove the bulbs, reheat your oven, and reassemble your headlamps. Install them, stand back and marvel at how you are using HID's the "correct way"

Here it is mocked up with the black housing, chrome reflector bowl, and chrome shroud. I had the parking lamp lens removed for paint in this picture.



Final install pics of my setup will come in the next couple days. I'm currently in the process of painting everything and I'm sure I'll have some minor tweaking to do before final installation.

Here is the supplied PDF from TRS of an MH1 install, http://www.theretrofitsource.com/pdf...1_Retrofit.pdf. I would also like to say that the customer service at TRS is top notch. They reply promptly and courteously to e-mails and every issue I've seen pop up on various forum's while I was reading and researching about these projectors was taken care of quickly and with no questions asked. They are based in GA, I ordered the kit on a Friday, the kit shipped Monday, and I received it on Thursday.

In no way am I advocating PnP HID's nor am I condoning them. I personally have ran 8000K, 4300K, and 6000K PnP HID's for the past 3 years. I always thought that if I aimed them down slightly that the glare would not be that bad for oncoming drivers and that by adding eyelid's I was also reducing the glare. Which after being in front of my headlights at night, they're not obnoxiously blinding. There are some halogen reflectors that respond well to HID bulbs. But there are also other's that do so horribly. But I feel now that with the cost of retrofitting coming down like it is and the ease of installation for most headlamp housings that retrofits should be the only option for lighting upgrades. People will spend thousands of dollars for bolt on performance, but they refuse to spend a few hundred for a projector HID setup. Instead they'd rather spend the $40 on eBay and call it a day.
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Old 02-11-2012, 11:24 PM
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Great write-up. Prob FAQ it when it's all said & done.


Can't wait to see the finished product.
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Old 02-11-2012, 11:27 PM
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Great write-up. Prob FAQ it when it's all said & done.


Can't wait to see the finished product.
Thanks Bee. I know what your feelings on HID projectors are but I think these will look absolutely mint once compete and reinstalled.
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Old 02-11-2012, 11:32 PM
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I mean, I like em and I don't. I completely appreciate a good retrofit.

It just comes across kindy ricey sometimes, just because eBay and these Japenese vendors destroyed the ricer headlight game by including projectors in alot of their BS aftermarket headlights. But on the other hand, real car heads know what's eBay & what isn't. So that does count for something.


But I think it's gonna look good. Who knows, maybe you might make me wanna do it lol.
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Old 02-11-2012, 11:46 PM
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Originally Posted by BeeCee View Post
I mean, I like em and I don't. I completely appreciate a good retrofit.

It just comes across kindy ricey sometimes, just because eBay and these Japenese vendors destroyed the ricer headlight game by including projectors in alot of their BS aftermarket headlights. But on the other hand, real car heads know what's eBay & what isn't. So that does count for something.

But I think it's gonna look good. Who knows, maybe you might make me wanna do it lol.
Lol, the only thing those eBay "projector" headlamps are good for is a spare set of headlamps to use, and even that's debatable. Some of the eBay housings are impossible to get apart, and some don't even come close to actually lining up with any OE or Morimoto projector. The output on them is horrible, but people think because they have "projector headlamps" that they can just stick HID's in them and be fine. There was a thread a while back here where a 3rd gen guy took the Depo projectors and put HID's in them and the results were absolute garbage.

There is a very big difference between a halogen and an HID projector due to the nature of the bulb types. Halogens being filament based have a different beam than an HID bulb which is arc based. Sure, there are some OE halogen projectors that can decently control an HID bulb, but the difference is noticeable when you swap in the correct projector.

For those still questioning the legality of HID's in halogen reflectors, HID plug n play fails govt test. It's a long read but it shows why you get all that glare with an HID bulb and why "legally" you should fail a safety inspection for them.

And for the OE halogen projector vs HID projector, here's a Subaru thread I found while researching these Morimoto projectors, http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show....php?t=2111110. As you can see the OE halgoen projector does a decent job, but the HID is just that much better.

Last edited by StanzaDescendant; 02-12-2012 at 12:14 AM.
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Old 02-12-2012, 01:39 AM
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Well, both housings, reflector bowls, projector shrouds, and what I'm using as my parking lamp lens's are now painted and just about all put back together.

I'm really liking the way these came out and hopefully there won't be any issues when it comes time to fire these babies up.

To expand on the prior install instructions. I could not get the projector to sit far enough back for my comfort with the larger and thicker silicone washer that is supplied by TRS so instead I opted for the small thin one. This allows the projector to sit farther back and to be held in place more securely by the lock ring.

The second place this is going to differ is with the 9007 adapter plate. Like I said previously TRS will send you adapter plates that sit where the OE style bulb would and automatically line up the projector. Unfortunately I could not get the solenoid wires, the projector, and the adapter plate to play nice together so I am just opting for the snug fit approach via the silicone washer and lock ring. If you're wondering whether or not that will be enough, then the answer is yes. It wasn't until recently that TRS started supplying these adapter plates.

Besides the fact that these projectors are pretty much PnP the other really nice thing about them is that you can still utilize the OE adjustment knobs. Because the halogen reflector bowl is pretty much left intact it makes this possible. However for rotation you can either use the adapter plate or manually set it like in this video, (
).

If you were to use a larger projector that compromised the OE adjustment knobs you can still install a method of adjusting left/right, up/down, and rotation. I stumbled across it while doing some reading on HID Planet, (JnC's Mounting Method (with Rotational Adj Capability)). It really is an ingenious system that has been proven time and time again to be precise and effective.

So, now that I've bored you with more rambling about these projectors, here's my progress pics.

I used.

-Duplicolor Adhesion Promoter
-Duplicolor black gloss enamel
-NAPA CV-4
-Tamiya TS-73 clear orange
-Duplicolor high heat clear coat

I removed the parking lamp lens and sprayed it to match the amber reflectors on the outside of the housing. This took approx 7 coats this time around.

I also sprayed the halogen reflector bowl black so it would blend with the rest of the headlamp and sprayed the MH1 shroud with NAPA's CV-4 which is NAPA's version of an OE paint code in a spray can. It's been used in prior projects such as my valve cover, CAI, eyelids, and grille trim piece. It's just about as close a match as you're gonna get in a spray can and is pretty cheap at ~$15 a can.



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Old 02-12-2012, 02:12 PM
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Continued. . .

In my haste to get these reinstalled and put back together I forgot to mention that there is some dremel work necessary on the back side of the housings where the OE bulb would normally sit.

Because you are using an H1 bulb now, which has a much smaller base than a 9007 and also uses a locking clip as opposed to a ring you will need to dremel the plastic tabbed ring down to allow the clip's plate to sit flat and to allow the clip to lock in.

Without clip plate installed.



With plate installed.




As you can see, the ring was ground down and notches were cut to allow the clip to slide in and under the plate. Don't be afraid to take off more material than you think is necessary around the edges. All that it will lead to is an easier install of the locking clip.
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Old 02-12-2012, 03:06 PM
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Good work bro! Looks really good and looks like you have put a lot of time into this project. Shaping the shroud is so scary and trial and error. But good work! Can wait to see the finished product.
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Old 02-12-2012, 06:01 PM
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Good work bro! Looks really good and looks like you have put a lot of time into this project. Shaping the shroud is so scary and trial and error. But good work! Can wait to see the finished product.
Thanks. But the person you should really be thanking is 00_altima_red. I bought the housings and shrouds from him after he decided to keep his MH1 projectors for his new car. So all I had to do was paint everything the way I wanted, assemble the housings, and install them on the car.

Even though I didn't personally cut the shrouds or housings I'm hoping this can serve as an informative writeup for those looking to do this in the future.
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Old 02-12-2012, 06:22 PM
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Alright, so now it's 95% done.

The housings are installed on the car and the projectors are more or less aligned until it gets dark out and I can properly aim them. The TRS relay harness is a beast and a bit cumbersome to work with because of the large gauge wiring they use as well as the split loom. Don't get me wrong, it is very much appreciated, it just makes it a bit of a pain to route the wires without them being seen.

For those who have never installed a relay harness what you are effectively doing is pulling power directly from the battery and using the OE switch to control it. This allows faster warm-up time, more consistent voltages for the ballast's, and although isn't necessary when adding on to an OE circuit it is cheap insurance to help guarantee the life of whatever you are adding on.

Now, once you have your new projector housings assembled and baked back together install your bulb's. Trust me on this, it is 100x easier to install an H1 bulb off of the car and I'm sure the 3rd gen guys can attest to this. Once those are installed and seated properly go out to your car and remove your old housings. Follow blackalti's write-up for this part, (http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/f-q...ts-w-pics.html) or if you're a 98-99 with the 2 piece headlights here's BeeCee's write-up, (http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/f-q...all-guide.html).

Once you have your old housings off route the TRS harness on top of everything so you can figure out where everything goes. Once you have the harness laid out properly, (long end to the pass side) start hooking it up. I used the bolt that connects the fender to the rad support bracket as a ground for the pass side harness using one of the supplied nuts for the ballast mounts. I also mounted the ballast's like BeeCee does in his write-up which is on top of the bumper support bracket. My relay box is tucked away on one of the studs for the OE fog light brackets. Besides the ballast and bulb connections you will also have to connect the harness to the battery.

Now that you have your harness semi-installed start routing the wires for final installation. Once you have your wires ran appropriately connect all the harnesses to your headlamps and connect the high and low harnesses to the TRS harness. Then install your headlamps and test everything. You will probably have to adjust your cutoff. If you did not get the projector to sit flat or if you did not use the supplied 9007 adapter plate when you cut your housings you will also have to rotate the projector to achieve a level cutoff line. This is why it is key to make sure that the hole you cut in the bottom of the halogen reflector bowl is just large enough to let the projector sit flat. If after all this your projectors aren't level you can adjust them a few degrees by following the YouTube video I posted earlier.

The only issue I currently have is that my high beam indicator is on all the time and that my high's and low's are swapped. But everything works and the cutoff is clean. Warm up time is quicker than any of my previous DDM or eBay kits and there is absolutely zero flicker as the voltage stabilizes.

I'll be calling TRS tomorrow to see if they have a fix for the high beam issue. Although I do remember reading something on HID Planet about this.

Now onto the installed pics.

Full drivers side 1/4 shot.



Passenger side close up on the housing.



I still have to take off my eyelids from my old housings and reapply them to these housings. But other than that and the TRS harness issue this project is just about done. Cutoff and output shots will be taken tonight.
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Old 02-13-2012, 01:46 AM
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Bro great write up, this will be my next project come may =D. Hope you boost the Alty soon ^.^
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Old 02-13-2012, 01:54 AM
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Bro great write up, this will be my next project come may =D. Hope you boost the Alty soon ^.^
I don't think boost is in the picture yet for me. I'm currently concentrating on chassis bracing and braking. If you haven't already, take a look at my DIY Bracing thread.

When you do this if you have any issues Phil, Ryan, and Brody all have my number.
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Old 02-13-2012, 01:54 AM
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Well, I talked with BT about this high/low issue and we both think that swapping the high and low leads on the TRS harness will solve my issues. So that will be taken care of tomorrow after work. I'll still be calling TRS in the morning to confer though.

So, I took the car out tonight for a bit and let me just say the difference from PnP HID's to projectors is a larger jump than from halogen's to PnP HID's. The foreground lighting is there but it is not obnoxious which lets you focus on the road ahead of you as opposed to what is already in front of you. And to jump back to the quality of these, it's 25 degrees Fahrenheit right now and these ballasts and bulbs fired with no problems, no flickering, no jumping, and no cutting out whatsoever which I previously experienced on occasion with my DDM and eBay kits.

I think it's safe to say I will never want to drive a car without proper projectors again. I am officially a convert. Before I could deal with driving a halogen car coming from my DDM kit, but this is beyond the next step, this is the next flight of stairs up.

Lowbeam cutoff.



Highbeam cutoff.



Frontal shot.



My old DDM 6k/3k amber housing setup.



And a shitty cutoff shot.



Note how much cleaner and more focused the MH1's are compared to the DDM's in the reflector bowl and the lack of glare from the MH1 setup. All that glare you see in the PnP shot is now being focused down the road instead of lighting up the trees.

My cutoff isn't perfect yet, my drivers side needs to come up slightly. But I'll adjust those better tomorrow when I can get to a more level surface since my driveway isn't completely flat. And the setup is Morimoto 6k bulbs with DDM 3k's behind my amber fog housings for reference.

These also bring to light just how badly my fogs are adjusted and makes me want to retro those too now. Maybe in time though. I'll adjust them first and see where that brings me.

If you're wondering how a wall shot compares to real life a member on HID Planet recently drew up some nice colorful CAD drawings to illustrate this perfectly, (Wall shots vs real life - Where the light really goes). The CAD drawings are based on a TSX projector but can be applied to any projector if you're willing to do the math. As is the DOT standard the OP assumes a 2.5" drop over 25'.

Last edited by StanzaDescendant; 02-16-2012 at 12:41 AM.
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Old 02-13-2012, 07:11 PM
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You did a great job man, that looks really good.
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Old 02-13-2012, 08:50 PM
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don't you now ask yourself, why did you do this sooner?
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