The problem is that a lot of people go overboard with the LEDs and they end up looking tacky IMO.
But the basic stuff I'm doing is...
* I'm going to have the housing color matched to the car, I'm going to tint the side running light and put a LED bulb inside.
* The front Amber Turn Signal will be also smoked out so it will be a tinted amber color. * I'm using the Iris Shrouds, and will be installing a recessed 100mm Halo behind the shroud. This should give it a blow in the background without you being able to see the actual ccfl.
* I'm going to work on a company logo design for my company SOS Customs and see if
I can implement it into the headlight design.
* I haven't decided yet, but I may add a second set of Smaller halos into the design,
but I will see how this looks first before i make that call.
Business is booming!! Are all your current projects local projects?? Update here will your progress pics!!
No, Anson who's project is #1 right now is in Florida.
The Titan & G are local. The guy who owns the Titan is a friend of mine and is in my car club. His is going to be fun, especially with all the room he has in the housing. If they come out really nice, I will most likely being customizing his GTR headlights as well down the line (assuming his wife lets him)
I also have a couple Mustang owners who want me to do some custom work. One is a Shelby GT500 and I have a really good idea to make his stand out when people start checking out the workmanship.
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Inspiration
At the rate he is doing business he can cop an AIT roof spoiler with no problem lol.
Luckily, I'm getting work from outside this forum so I'm able to give you guys a price break compared to my normal rate. My money is going towards paying off some bills so that next year I can grab me a M37 or M56. So We will have the Altima, G, and M at the same time. Plus I really want to boost the Altima and the G. Been talking to a few local shops here about doing the fab work for the Altima to see if I can get it better than the price I would from Speedforce.
Yeah speedforce wants like $5000.if you know what your doing u can buy your own turbo,intercooler n parts n just have a company customize all the piping. I plan to boost my alti once its, paid off. This year I will be doing internals,pistons,connecting rods n cams just to name a few. I knew a guy who boosted his g and he had friends that had a shop and they gave him.a nice build.
The turbo itself is at least $1500 for a good quality one. Sure you can get an Ebay one for $500, but you get what you pay for. The electronics & the piping is the next expensive part. Luckily since I already have uprev, i can actually use that for my tune, I dont need a second stand alone unless i go for crazy boost. I figured this much to boost it properly
BOV, WG, IC, and misc controls (turbo timer, gauges, etc) will run me about $1000 by buying them when i come across deals.
Turbo, oil pump, and lines $1800
I may be able to have all the piping made for under $1000
and install is all my labor so that is free. So i should be able to do it for under $4000. However, I did use to work for SFR, so If Tim can hook me up with a deal on the kit for close to what it would cost for me to build my own, Then I will just have him do it.
You know my opinion about Ebay.Im very skeptical of them.I didnt buy the wing from them,so you know I definitely wouldnt buy a turbo from them.After I get my cams Im going to have Vinny at VTR (Vinnytenracing) do a tune for me.He builds the fastest 350z and infiniti Gs on the east coast.He has been around for a long time and is well known (check him out on youtube).He's not to fond of uprev.He will be doing my turbo for me.He also told me we will keep the boost at 5lbs and I should be fine. Sht he had a 03 sentra up to 550HP and he used some maxima internals in the motor.I respect his work. Matter a fact he just won a race using JWT cams in a 350z.
Congratulation Vinny Ten, Rocky and crew for taking a completely stock bodied 350Z to a 1st place Unlimited Street podium at the Sport Compact Springnationals! This is basically a stock interior, stock bodied 350Z running street legal tires and topping the scale at over 3500 lbs, yet able to turn in consistent mid-9 second runs at 140 MPH all day long. A true testament to Vinny’s legendary know how and years of experience on the drag strip. Along with Vinny’s usual chassis and driveline secret sauce, a JWT Twin Turbo System and JWT Camshafts where chosen for the horsepower side of their equation. Again, congratulations and thanks for including JWT!
I plan on starting my own customizing business full time. I hate working for a company that isn't mine. But the problem with that is I will have to keep it small so I can keep costs down for my customers. If I have to get a shop, i have to increase costs. That is why right now I can do this much cheaper than some of the other retrofit companies out there that charge over $1000 to do what I'm doing for you guys for $500. But, it is what it is.
Here are some pics of Anson's pieces with the second layer of paint drying.
Tooslow looks like your retrofit project is coming along well as always.You definitely need to go into business.It seems like this is getting much easier for you. I figured out how to wire my quad set-up with high and low beams--I'm going to use a splitter.I'm going to start prepping my shrouds tomarrow for primer and paint.
Explain how you will have them function when in operation.
Okay based on how the projectors are set, they are either all low beam or high beam. I still want to have high beam capability. So I will use what's called a splitter to activate the high beam solenoid inside the projector. The splitter will tap into your high beam power wire and then split to the power wire on each projector. So when you turn on your high beam switch inside the car it will activate the high beams. So all four will either be low beams or switch to high beams.Hope I explained it well.
ok, i think I know what you are saying. here is my suggestion though unless I misunderstood.
The projector in the low beam slot connect normally to the harness. The projector in the high beam connect to the OEM High beam harness as well. But, then connect the cutoff shield actuator wires to the High beam wires as well, so that when you switch on the high beams, it will turn on the bulb in the high beam projector and also activate the cutoff shield in both projectors. I probably wouldn't put HIDs in the High beam projector though because they need to warm up to really be effective unlike brighter halogens.
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