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ES Fog Retro v 2.0

5K views 24 replies 5 participants last post by  tooslow_4_u 
#1 ·
When I was originally working on my RX330 quad setup I had planned on re-doing my ES fog retro. When I finished my original ES retro I was happy with it. It satisfied the look I was going for. But I soon grew past the color matched shroud and orange lens. After purchasing a new pair of ES projectors I decided to use the Matchboxes that I already had which meant the "new" ES projectors got shelved. Well, now I decided to put them to use so I re-opened my old setup and revamped it.

When a member on HIDP posted up his DRL/fog setup I loved the look of it. So I decided to incorporate that into my new setup. I used the xDRL's that I bought months and months ago that I was originally going to use as supplemental reverse lights. To allow the ES300 and the xDRL's to fit in my tiny housings I had to back mount the projector and also add a slot at the top of the hole to allow the xDRL wiring to pass through. Somewhere along the way I lost the hardware to the xDRL's so I scrounged up 4 matching machine screws and nuts and mounted the xDRL's to the top of the housings and lined them up with the horizontal edge of the reflector bowl. Both housings were also painted with the same high beat black paint that I used in my current quad setup.

Also, when I originally opened these housings I found that they were permasealed, (much to my dismay). When I resealed them I used a combination of silicone and aluminum tape. Well unfortunately one of the housings had a leak, which I lived with until I swapped in the Matchbox retro. This time around I scraped out as much of the permasealant as I could and will be butyl sealing these as well as taping since parts of the channel were broken off in the opening process.

Right now everything is mounted. I just need to cover the JB Steel Stik epoxy with actual JB weld which will fill in any little spots I may have missed, notch the fog bracket to give the ES clearance, and I am waiting on the wiring and butyl from TRS which I ordered first thing this morning.

Onto the pictures.

Both housings.


Closeup of Driver housing.
 
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#3 ·
Got em sealed up this morning and mounted this afternoon before class. Unfortunately I didn't have time to wire up the xDRL's. So for now that harness is ran and the leads are just zip-tied to the strap on the battery. I was making great time until I went to put the bumper beam back on the car. It slipped, fell on the driver housing and broke the bracket, (shitty aftermarket fog's ftl) so I had to come up with a reinforcing bracket to reattach the two pieces together. Then by the time I got the wiring and ballasts done I had to put the bumper and headlights back on and go to class. So weather pending I'll wire the switch and xDRL's on Wednesday.

Picture time!






Weather pending I'll grab daytime shots of the fog's tomorrow.
 
#4 ·
nice job man. I'm always impressed with these DIY LED lighting mods you've done to your altima!!
 
#6 ·
A couple of daytime shots since it stopped raining this afternoon.





The lens really kills the look of these fogs especially if you compare the with and without the lens but in person they kinda blend into the housings which is nice.

Hopefully tomorrow after I finish my hw I'll have time to wire up the DRL's.
 
#12 ·
I still haven't finished wiring them.

:wall:

I just haven't had time to mess with them between work and school. Mostly, I don't want to pull the whole front end off and get in over my head when I don't have a lot of free time to begin with.
 
#15 ·
There is no separate bezel in the fogs. So if you paint them black you will kill the output unless you do a projector retrofit at the same time.

What brand are the fogs? The 2 pairs I have, 1 is butyl, and 1 is permasealed.
 
#18 ·
Says you. :p

Idk what brand they are but i know there permasealed :( I just want my fogs to match my headlight just going for looks hehe. But i might try to retrofit if i find some projectors at work.
How do you know they're permasealed? Have you tried heating up the sealant that is visible between the tabs?
 
#25 ·
Usually with permaseal I do about 250, heat for about 7-10 minutes, pry on the corner to have it pop loose. put it back in for another 3-5 minutes and work my way around the lens. Once the lens starts to cool off, the permaseal won't give, you have to do it while it's hot.
 
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