Several Electrical problems with my 1992 Maxima, 24 valve dohc 3000 - Nissan Forums : Nissan Forum
 
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post #1 of 8 Old 04-07-2018, 04:46 PM Thread Starter
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Several Electrical problems with my 1992 Maxima, 24 valve dohc 3000

Ok, so, my '92 Maxi wont start. Security light flashes quickly when I turn the key, but no sound except for a "click" in the fuse panel. This was a result from the car overheating. Driving home one morning, looked down and my temp gauge was over the red and pinned as far as it could go. Pulled over and turned the car off immediately to allow cooldown. Realized my radiator fans were not coming on. Bummer, well need to get home. Started turning the engine, but no start. Unfortunately, I cranked it until my battery went dead. 4:00am in the morning, I live in the mountains of Colorado, so getting someone to stop was a cold nightmare. Thought I just needed a jump, and when someone finally stopped and tried, the car wouldn't crank at all. I just figured the battery was that dead. Anyway, got it towed home a few hours later, put a charge to it, and still nothing. Replaced the starter relay, to no avail. Unhooked the security wiring harness, but no change. The only difference now is, is that the cruise control light turns on every time I turn the key. Same click from the fuse box, hooked security back up, still no difference. Lights and gauges, windows and all still work. Some one had spliced in a wire from the starter fuse in the back of the fuse block, to what I assume is the small plug that leads a black wire to the starter. Don't know what that's all about. Someone help, it's the only ride I've got, and I'm at a loss and extremely frustrated. I love this car, it gets down like I couldn't believe! Oh it's an automatic tranny, don't know if that makes a difference or not. Much appreciated! Thank You!

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post #2 of 8 Old 04-08-2018, 01:32 AM
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Sounds like the starter is toast.
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post #3 of 8 Old 04-08-2018, 08:00 AM
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Engine may be dead as well, depends on how long it was driven in that overheat state. You'll kill every battery on the planet if that is true. A compression test will tell the tale there. Suppose you went far enough to lock up the engine? Starter will never work then. I figure you should at first verify that the engine still turns at all. Sounds like engine turned at first then quit. Could have stuck. Maybe blew head gasket and the cranking locked it when coolant hydrolocked.

Be aware that many cheaper jumper cables will not kick over a car now, the cheaper Chinese ones that many people buy for emergencies simply do not work, the gauge is too small, and the end clamps are not thick enough to pass enough amp to jump. Use two sets of them, one on top of the other and then they work. I used to sell them and many came back as worthless.

Check engine for free turning (socket and rachet on the crank pulley), test battery for full load output along with a FULL charge, then try again and starter suspect then if only clicking. Max engine heat next to it may have torched it. There's likely some way to bypass all the key/starter switching to jump the main starter big lead at starter itself to short that to the starter input post next to it to check starter itself without removing it. That working would tell you the problem is in the starter electrical that controls the solenoid.
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post #4 of 8 Old 04-12-2018, 02:30 AM
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I had a similar problem with my 2002 Altima.Blinking light and clicking. Had it towed to our mechanic and he told me that my car has a built-in Anti-Theft system which turns the car off if it thinks somebody is trying to steal it. It turns out it was a bad ignition module. I had them replace it at the dealer and $300 later it's fine.
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post #5 of 8 Old 04-12-2018, 03:58 AM
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Originally Posted by amc49 View Post
Engine may be dead as well, depends on how long it was driven in that overheat state. You'll kill every battery on the planet if that is true. A compression test will tell the tale there. Suppose you went far enough to lock up the engine? Starter will never work then. I figure you should at first verify that the engine still turns at all. Sounds like engine turned at first then quit. Could have stuck. Maybe blew head gasket and the cranking locked it when coolant hydrolocked.

Be aware that many cheaper jumper cables will not kick over a car now, the cheaper Chinese ones that many people buy for emergencies simply do not work, the gauge is too small, and the end clamps are not thick enough to pass enough amp to jump. Use two sets of them, one on top of the other and then they work. I used to sell them and many came back as worthless.

Check engine for free turning (socket and rachet on the crank pulley), test battery for full load output along with a FULL charge, then try again and starter suspect then if only clicking. Max engine heat next to it may have torched it. There's likely some way to bypass all the key/starter switching to jump the main starter big lead at starter itself to short that to the starter input post next to it to check starter itself without removing it. That working would tell you the problem is in the starter electrical that controls the solenoid.
He said when the engine died he cranked it until the battery died. From that I don't think the engine is locked up.

However, there still might be some damage related to the overheating, but I don't think that will show up until he gets a new starter, or battery is recharged fully.

I would hazard to guess when/if he gets the engine to start there is a good probability that the head is warped, or blown head gasket.
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'wouldn't crank at all.'
'still nothing'
relay 'to no avail'

OP was not clear there that engine is still turning but not starting up. An overheat damaged engine can slowly leak coolant to at some time later hydrolock it, not common but it does happen.

Hoping not of course.......only the vehicle owners know how long they drove overheated and most will be vague about it as they cannot stand the thought that they may have done the car in.

Last edited by amc49; 04-12-2018 at 05:50 AM.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amc49 View Post
'wouldn't crank at all.'
'still nothing'
relay 'to no avail'

OP was not clear there that engine is still turning but not starting up. An overheat damaged engine can slowly leak coolant to at some time later hydrolock it, not common but it does happen.

Hoping not of course.......only the vehicle owners know how long they drove overheated and most will be vague about it as they cannot stand the thought that they may have done the car in.
I hate to say it, but women are the worst about things like driving the car when its over heating, or running the car without oil pressure. However on my SE-R you really would question the oil pressure at idle as the gauge reads close to zero. That gave me quite the scare when I first drove the car after rebuilding the engine. Found out from this forum, that the reading is normal.
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post #8 of 8 Old 04-13-2018, 04:17 AM
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Modern engines can do that and even more so with the thinner oils. The engines have so many parts there are leaks everywhere and normal. The true test being drive the rpm up higher and the oil pressure must ramp up along with it. I drove cars for years with only say 5-7 psi at dead idle hot but it came up to 20 at 2K and 35 at 2500 and on up to 45 higher than that. Car lasted forever. I also had Honda DOHC bikes with 2 lbs. at 1K and they came up to 50 at cruise rpm and ran fine.

Women? I have seen MANY posts where guys thought you could drive a car say 20 more miles to get home with zero oil pressure or boiled over to lose most of the coolant. Motors then locked up solid as a rock. Can't count 'em in fact.

My woman well trained, she is well aware that when that crisis comes that she can be tossing a $1000 for every minute driving, she knows to stop or under certain circumstances (bad location to stop) to then burn the car to the ground as a safety issue.
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