Turns out there are loads of PY05F units from 2010/2011 model years on fleaBay right now, so I bought one Idea is to replace my PY15B unit with the PY05F unit which has all of the above. Basic connections, like antenna, BOSE amp and sat radio are identical. The difference is in the bluetooth/steering controls connectors...the newer unit has 32 pins instead of 8, and some of those extra pins are used for the rearcam video etc.
So first off has anyone already done this? Second, since I am not really replacing the radio with an aftermarket (and I'm sure superior--so let's not make this thread about that) unit I think I will need some Gen4.5 harness bits to make sure my connections to the HU are reliable. Anyone got a good source for those?
Plan is to take it slow and document as I go, with lots of pics. So...
Here are the connectors together, showing the harness adaptation I am going to have to make. Would really like to know alternate sources for these connectors, will need the old 8-pin male from the PY15B and the two new female connectors circled on the PY05F. USB would be a bonus, but I can manage that separately.
Update: Looks like connectors are part of TE's .025 series (Tyco Electronics, AMP, Amphenol)
So the 09 harness has both the general power/control and differential BOSE audio signals on that 20pin M43-09 connector. The '10 HU splits the M43-09 connector into M44 (general) and M45 (BOSE sigs).
Looks like I have a choice to make, either build a Y harness or internally make the connections and reuse the existing connector...will have to see what the unit looks like opened up to make a final call on that, but I'm leaning towards strapping 8 short lengths of shielded wire vs building an ugly harness with lots of crimping required (though I can buy the adapter part to the body harness off ebay which helps a bit)
This unit's software/hardware supports a backup cam but not USB. There is no easy way to fix that, short of finding a NAV unit out of a '10-'11. Sorry.
yup thats it..thanks for the info. i was thinking about adding a usb hub for charging things instead of using the sig socket with a usb adapter in it. but if could be used for streaming music to thatll be ideal.
Are you using your Sat radio? If not, you could hijack those input lines as a second AUX input to your HU...and hook that to some kind of cheap media/streaming box that you could insert your USB device to and stash in the ctr console...problem would be the user interface....which at best you could probably hijack the reverse cam analog video input to display whatever your media box spits out...but it will look crummy...but might be enough to navigate the menus with. Or get one of those cheap Bluetooth streaming audio devices and use either your existing AUX input, or the SAT hijack as discussed.
Hi d0ugmac1. I've been following your recommendations on a lot of posts (thank you!), but now I need some extra advice.
I was thinking about splitting the aux input in my PY05F (for adding a hidden/hardwired BT receiver), then I remembered this post and thought about adding a second one.
I don't have satellite tuner, so I don't even see the menu in the headunit.
Would it be possible to activate the menu without the sat tuner physically present?
I found in the fsm that the pin 38 in the sat connector (hu side) is the activation signal, but tried pulling it down to different voltages and no result. (floating, no load is about 7.2v)
I'm considering trying to make a 50Hz oscillator to replicate the attached graph of the manual.
Am I missing something? Or it can only be added with the true Tx and Rx of the tuner? (no tricks)
Are you using your Sat radio? If not, you could hijack those input lines as a second AUX input to your HU...and hook that to some kind of cheap media/streaming box that you could insert your USB device to and stash in the ctr console...problem would be the user interface....which at best you could probably hijack the reverse cam analog video input to display whatever your media box spits out...but it will look crummy...but might be enough to navigate the menus with. Or get one of those cheap Bluetooth streaming audio devices and use either your existing AUX input, or the SAT hijack as discussed.
yeah im using it, i just direct wired my radar detector so that freed up a sig socket for now. Oh well itll have to be good engine. good luck with your project.
So parts are slowly starting to roll in... Fortunately it looks like the connectors I ordered are the right size/fit/polarity! I think i am going to have to modify the crimp contact inserts for soldering, but I'm going to see if I can use the fleaBay parts I ordered to extract enough pre-crimped wire pigtails that I only need to do that for the video coax etc.
Next up is to build the two tools needed to release the individual contacts from the connectors...both for existing harness connectors if there is a enough slack to make it work, or for the occasional boo-boo when inserting pins into housings.
Here are the two tools needed to play with these connectors...planning to fabricate them out of ???. Think I have some brass shims somewhere...or maybe dollar store stuff...stay tuned!
Can probably just build one tool with a flat tip 0.4mm thick, 0.8mm wide and about 8mm long.
Built a tool today out of 14AWG house wire. Softer than tool steel, but easier to work. Nominally 1.6mm diameter, filed and sanded down to 0.8 x 0.4mm. Fits in the connector release holes, next up will be if it can release a connector insert.
I just used a sewing needle when I had to take some of those apart, but your tool seems like it will be a bit easier. I enjoy seeing someone make the tools for the job as well as doing that job; demonstrates great understanding of the project.
Another harness jig image. This is to mate to the harness connector that *should* be connecting into the PY05F unit I am installing. More of just a double check that I go the pin numbering correct when I insert wires into the housings. The actual connector I need to build is the mirror image of the white one below
All the bits from China have now arrived except the reverse cam... It's enough to start on the adapter harness. I have decided to do a full conversion harness rather than cut'n'splice the existing wiring.
Finally got around to assembling the harness adapter. Here it is ready for the big thaw AND the arrival of the reverse camera. Remaining two sockets on HU are the antennas and the Sat radio which stay the same and will be fed from existing '09 harness plugs.
Rev Cam input is RCA (video/shield), plus the reverse signal and a ground. Will play around with the powering of the vid unit once it arrives...ie ACC or AmpON or Rev Light dunno for now and will depend on how fast the video signal arrives once power is applied.
Note. I made a bunch of connectorized pigtails first, which I wound up not using as I just connectorized the ends of the harness adapter I had purchases. These wires then fed all the extra connections in the Bose audio connector and the original power harness. Could've saved myself a pile of time doing that the first time and it would've meant I'd have lots of left over spare parts to do the connections on the 32pin revcam/wheel switch/bluetooth connector. Maybe you will profit?!
Pretty cool project, but I'd like to know if the work is worth the reward.
I understand the whole mad scientist aspect and the sense of accomplishment afterwards, but could you include your total cost and man hours spent to complete this project?
I would like to see how you feel about the end result and how much that result cost you vs. just buying an aftermarket head unit for around $500-700 (that would be a nice headunit) and about 4 hrs of installation time.
how much that result cost you vs. just buying an aftermarket head unit for around $500-700 (that would be a nice headunit) and about 4 hrs of installation time.
One thing to keep in mind, jdublup, is that the Altima does not look as good with aftermarket. There is no faceplace that has the texture that the rest of the car has.
Curse you, car manufacturers, for putting crap like this in so that we have to pay more in the long run. At least we have room for double din.
Throw in $100 for the OEM Bose w/ Navigation faceplate and spend $20 for bondo filler and satin black spray paint and create a filler plate between the aftermarket headunit and the 1/4" gap on the side of the faceplate. I think Vital (might have been somebody else) did it with plastic on his setup.
I've been planning my build for a while now. Just waiting to pull the trigger.
Okay, here are the cost rollups in USD incl shipping and taxes
Nissan PY05F 2010 Head Unit (briefly used) $125 + $17 Ship (+$28 customs) $169
Rear video cam assembly $12.59
'09 Harness Adapter with pigtails $5.58
'10 HU power connector with pigtails $4.99
Nissan USB plug to standard USB $14.99
6' Panel mount USB connector/extender $9.49
25' RCA M-F exntension cable $3.99 (route video from trunk to HU)
Mouser Parts (white plastic housing, sockets, pins) $16.06 + $8 shipping
So far anything else, like the female RCA/heatshrink etc. came from the parts box $0.
Total investment so far $244.69
What do I get for that?
- USB source material (ipod, flashdrive, etc.)
- Backup Cam
- complete compatibility with existing Nissan steering controls/BOSE AMP/Bluetooth
- factory finish
- plug'n'play conversion harness (5 min install/ 5 min swap)
Like to see anyone achieve that price point/integration level with aftermarket units
I have decided to add bluetooth 3.0 streaming to my project...using a device other than my primary phone though. I'm going to connect an 1/8" stereo plug directly to the back of the AUX IN jack on the front faceplate. This video shows you how to get there. I'll figure out the pinouts once I have access. I'm planning to use the Logitech Stay tuned.
So weather keeps threatening to warm up around here...finally. Some progress to report:
Added an AUX in cord for my Bluetooth receiver so I don't have an unsightly cable sticking out the front of my new HU. Some strain relief added and anti rattle foam. FB1 is Common, FB2 is Tip/R and FB3 is middle ring/L
Bought a $2 widget from my local Chinese Emporium to fabricate a 12V to 5V converter for the Logitech Bluetooth Audio Receiver. It (was) a 5V USB cigarette adapter