How to Chip your 93-94 ecu - Nissan Forums : Nissan Forum
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post #1 of 18 Old 04-17-2006, 01:58 PM Thread Starter
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How to Chip your 93-94 ecu (finished)

First of all, I think this one deserves a disclaimer. Ok. Here goes. proceed at your own risk. If at any point you dont feel comfortable with what your doing, please either stop while you can or let a pro take over. You may want to buy an extra ecu just in case something goes horribly wrong. The methods I use may be considered a bit risky by some, but there is always an either (a) more expensive or (b) more challanging/time consuming way to do things. I think that about covers it...
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

First things first. Why would you want to do this? Its obviously a pretty chalanging task and is going to cost a little pocket-change to get going in the first place, so whats the point? Plus, wouldnt nissan want to put the best tune on their cars from the factory? Why would they give us the shaft in such a fashion? The answers? because. Altima's arent for us performance lovers. Theyre grocery getters and nissan knew it, so they are tuned for efficienty and the ability to run on the chitty 87 octane gas. Well there are a couple of cool things about reflashing your own ecu. (Even if your still na...)

First off, upgradability. If you want a more aggressive N/A tune for now, but want to go turbo later on, you have the ability without spending any more money. Just pop out your chips and rewrite em' (or use new chips if you buy the cheapo non-erasable or UV erasble crap...who does that anymore?)

Secondly, you learn alot about whats going on in your car just by working with this stuff.

Thirdly. Jimmy wolf is expensive and enthalpy isnt much better. Plus each time you upgrade your shite, you gotta pay out the ass for a re-tune. Hence the upgradability mentioned about becomes even cooler.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

What your going to need:

-A computer with a parallel port for the prom' burner. (more than likely, all the cheep burners use a parallel port atleast...)

-An ECU. I would reccomend hitting up ebay so you can be doing this and not have your car out of commision at the same time. Be sure to get an ecu with matching transmission type as your car. Some ppl say that it matters...but I dont know if I believe them.

-A daughterboard. WTF is a daughterboard? Basically its a little PCB circut that adapts 2 8-bit eprom's into a 16-bit bus, and then adapts that to a 40 pin header like plugs into your harddrive in your computer. Once you see the pictures, it will be obvious what I'm talking about. Dont worry yet. Any daughterboard that is for the s13 will work (dosent matter if its from a sr or a ka...just as long as its for an s13..) These can be baught either from www.bikirom.com as the old-style boards, www.plmsdevelopments.com, or just on random forums. Calum makes alot of these and DeviousKA does as well, so try ztechz forums of eccs.hybridka.com 's for sale section...

-at least 2 eeproms of size 256 or higher or their flash equilivant. Sometimes ppl sell these with the boards as a package deal, but other times you gotta find em yourself. Theyre pretty cheap tho... Also, be sure that your buying the right package. A PLCC is completely different from a DIP package, so I wouldnt buy prom'z before you get your daughterboard (or atleast decide which you are going to buy) If you arent sure what Im talking about, ask the person you get the daughterboard from whether you need to buy plcc or dip package proms. Im sure they'll know.

-low-wattage soldering iron and solder for electronics. (for obvious reasons...)

-Eeprom burner. I use the willem's enhanced you can get on ebay fromn hongkong. It's cheep and works like a champ.

-standard tuning equiptment. If you wanna tune your engine, you gotta know what's goin' on in there. wideband and a consult adapter for checking your exact timing and TP are essential. (moreon consult later) Knock sensors are nice as well...I knew I would find a use for this safc2 someday

********************************NOTE************** **************

Until we get a big enough list of ecu roms, everyone who wants to take this on is going to have to get a consult adapter. The good news is theyre fairly inexpensive and they're REALLY good tools to have on hand anyway for anything from Tuning (which your obviously interested in) to just pulling codes from your ecu. It even gives you calculated values like TP which, as you will find, are confusing as all hell. Anywho, you can get these from the for sale forums on ztechz or eccs.hybridka.com. (those sites rock too, but theyre not frequently visited.) If your a cheapass like me, you could also just make one up yourself. here's the parts list and the schematic can be found...oh i dont know...perhaps right here . The choice is yours...

************************************************** *****************

Instalation!

The toolz:

Vaccum Cleaner w/ wand attachment
electrical tape
drinking straw
screwdriver (philips) (+)
solder and soldering iron (25ish watts)
patience

First of all, your going to want to unscrew the 4 phillips head screws on the top and bottom of the ecu and remove the panels that the screws were attaching to the ecu. What you have should look like this:

(Picture of header)<--coming soon

Here comes the fun part. Take your vaccum cleaner's wand attachment and tape the straw to the opening, using extra electrical tape to seal the connection. Also, add a bit of electrical tape to the tip of the straw to prevent static discharge. (If you have an anti-static wristband, put it on the vaccum wand for added protection against static) (Thanks to scarboroughdub on the bikirom forums for this technique...its effective as hell. Also thanks for the picture...I hope you dont mind that I borrowed it but if you do just let me know)




Apply the soldering iron tip to one side of the solder and the vaccum to the other and just watch it get sucked away.

[sidenote]
Just so you know, this can be done using a solder sucker or desoldering braid, but these methods are frustrating or involve buying crap that is fairly expensive. But if your uncomfortable with the vaccum method, desolder however you'd like.(electronics repair shops have the tools to do this in like 5 minutes)

Once you've got everything sucked clean (You dont need it to be immaculately clean, just so theres a pretty sizable hole in the middle) You can start soldering the 20x2 connector onto the 20x2 header! This is probably the most skill-intensive part of the install as far as soldering goes, so there is no shame in taking it to an electronic's repair place in town and payin 15 bucks to have it done perfectly and in a friggin hurry. If you wanna atleast try your hand at it before you give up, you can generally clean it up pretty well with the vaccum technique if screw up a lil.

Once your done it should look like this:



From there, you can simply "plug in" the daughterboard. And vioula! Your the proud owner of a chippable ecu!

NOTE!! Your ECU will not read from the eproms on the daughterboard untill you move a jumper (0 ohm resistor...same dif I guess) from the CJ1 to the CJ2 position and solder it down. But PLEASE dont to this untill you have dumped your original ecu'c contents using the consult cable and the camulsult software linked to in the tuning sticky.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Burning the EPROMS!

This is where the computer with a parallel port is going to come in. Alot of newer laptops have axed the bulky parallel port, so be aware that you'll need one if you use the cheap programmers on ebay (willem enhanced )

The software with the burner will tell you the right configuration for the little dip-switches on the burner whenever you tell it what kind of chip your writing to. Be sure to note again whether its a 28-DIP package or a 32-PLCC package type eprom for the burner software configuration.

If your daughterboard requires you to split the binary into an "odd" and an "even" file, that can be done using the RomEditor Software found in the Tuning Sticky under the file menu I believe. (Ill check later) The old-style bikiboard is an odd-even style while the plmsdevelopment's one has you burn the same .bin to both chips. (pretty sweet considering rom-editor's odd even file splitting kinda sucks...bt it works if you work with it long enough...)

Now plug your proms in and install the ecu. If you havent done so already, desolder the 0 ohm resistor from the CJ1 position and resolder in the CJ2 position so the ecu reads from the daughterboard. Take it out to your car, plug it up, and turn it on. If you did everything correct your car should run like nothing ever happened to it.

uh oh. it run like ass? if so, check all your connections with a multimeter, try reburning your eeprom's, check with a magnifying glass to make sure you didnt short anyhting on the header while soldering or anything like that. If you've done all that and are convinced that you zapped something important somewhere along the way, be thankful that you only ruined a backup ecu! (sorry tho...)
__________________________________________________ _______________

So at this point your ecu is ready for modification to its fuel and ignition maps, rev limiter, speed limiter, open/closed cycle oporation points. The sky is the limit really. If your flowing more air than usual (ahem...turbo), then you can change your whole TP scale for improved map resolution. The tuning part of this is a WHOLE nother' big writeup (theres a pretty good sticky on this called "how your ecu thinks") , but you now have the foundation in place. So hop to! There's horsepower to be had here! And it auint too expensive either. Just takes a wee bit of time and knowledge. Enjoi guys. -David


Last edited by Steeliez; 04-18-2006 at 03:20 PM.
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post #2 of 18 Old 04-17-2006, 02:20 PM
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Nice write up man, makes me want to convert my car over to 93-94


BTW who made this forum and was it lastnight?

Special-K
And the name is supposed to be vader3120. F*** IT!

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1991 SE-R SR20DE - For Sale
-Tranny Swap Done (JDM B13 VLSD & JGY LSD)
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post #3 of 18 Old 04-17-2006, 09:23 PM
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definately interested.
I'll start gathering all the essentials.
keep the info coming


1994 Nissan Altima SE
1974 Datsun 260Z
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post #4 of 18 Old 04-17-2006, 09:25 PM
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dual-...QQcmdZViewItem

This is the correct Eprom burner?


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1974 Datsun 260Z
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post #5 of 18 Old 04-17-2006, 10:05 PM Thread Starter
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yup

thats the burner alright. Seems like I paid a bit less for it a while ago, but I might just be imagining that... but short answer yup!


Vaser: I have no idea who made it, but Im not questioning

Last edited by Steeliez; 04-17-2006 at 10:11 PM.
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post #6 of 18 Old 04-17-2006, 11:56 PM
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Yeah, I'm somewhat of a cheapskate myself but mostly because I enjoy the learning process as a DIY type. I've already made my own Consult adapter awhile back so I can offer some help to others if needed.

Here was the picture of my 1st prototype...

http://www.stac-consulting.com/serra...onsult/nci.jpg

...which was based on the latest PLMS Development schematics which I redid for myself. There is a copy if you need one at http://www.stac-consulting.com/serra...t/nci1_sch.jpg. Anyone skilled in schematics can trim down my copy to just the bare essential components (no jumpers, no test switch, no LEDS, etc.)

I wrote about this at https://www.nissanclub.com/forums/sho...d.php?t=200866

Oh, and the new Nissan Datascan v1.5 has been released. It goes for about $20.00.

New features and bug fixes in Revision 1.5:
• Keyboard shortcut keys for all functions
• Use of Escape key for exiting functions
• Modified log record structure - accurate timer column
• User customizable xx-xx Speed Test option
• Automatically generated unique log file name
• Log file settings retention
• Invalid port number error handler
• New Data Replay function - replays NDS log files
• New Dashboard function - two gauge data display window with RPM and Speed alerts
• New Log Analyzer function - simple NDS log file analyzer
• Software copy protection


Software Registration
An Activation Code is required to unlock the Nissan Data Scan software. Only paid registered users will be able to activate the software.

To register the software:
• Go to the Software Activation form, enter your name, e-mail address and click on the Generate Code button. A User Registration Code will be generated.
• Right click on the User Registration Code and Copy the code.
• Paste the code to the first line of e-mail body and send it to [email protected] from an e-mail account provided at the time of purchase.
Note: Please do not attempt to type in the Registration Code as you will make a mistake. Do not add any other information to the first line of your e-mail. This is an automated service and no one is going to read the message.
• An Activation Key will be send in a reply e-mail. Copy and Paste the key to the Software Activation form, click the Unlock button.
• Restart the Nissan Data Scan software. You should now have unrestricted use of the software.

And thanks for the writeup, Steeliez. Keep them coming...



'94 Nissan Altima SE, 5spd.
Erebuni 905, Turboing, Hotshot CAI, UR Pulley, Calum ECU,
HUD & ATC retrofitted, DEPO lamps, NGK Ignition wires.
ITEMS FOR SALE

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post #7 of 18 Old 04-18-2006, 12:23 AM
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Great new sub forum and great thread...thanks for the heads up jserrano....

I'm interested and already have the Blazt unit w/Datascan 1.4....Even though I'll likely be getting a Max I'm still interested in trying this out since I have all bolts ons already.....
If I could just get rid of the slight lag around 2k-2500....


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post #8 of 18 Old 04-20-2006, 01:30 AM
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Great update

where do we buy a 20x2 connector?


1994 Nissan Altima SE
1974 Datsun 260Z
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post #9 of 18 Old 04-20-2006, 03:53 PM Thread Starter
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it should actually come with the daughterboard.
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post #10 of 18 Old 10-11-2006, 06:41 PM
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steeliez whats up there buddy , are those ECU's ready or not ? PM me have many things to discuss.
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post #11 of 18 Old 04-24-2007, 05:35 AM
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Exclamation Altima 94 manual with a AT ECU!

Hi,
i'M not good with good with car mechanics, please I hope someone can help me. I have a nissan altima 94 manual transmission. IT'S ECU died after some water got into it...(long story). SO i replaced it but with a altima94 ECU but for automatic transmission (only one could find at the moment;new cost over 800$). I was wondering what difference can it make in the car behaviour or performance! I'm thinking it could defeinitly be slower now.
Also, I bought a OBX header kit with a nismo cat (straight pipe). The only problem is that my EGR valve is going crazy, giving me from time to time a check engine light. dealer told me because you have not enough back pressure; anyone got an idea how can i fix this?
Finally, just to prevent problems, i replaced my old distributor with a new one bought on ebay (oem made in taiwan) several weeks after installation it started to give me a cam position sensor fault code! Dealer told me you need a new one made by nissan. What do you think, could it be oil that went on the sensor.. i dunno!!!
Sorry for my english.
THanks in advance

Best regards
Amer
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post #12 of 18 Old 04-26-2007, 12:45 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Amer007
Hi,
i'M not good with good with car mechanics, please I hope someone can help me. I have a nissan altima 94 manual transmission. IT'S ECU died after some water got into it...(long story). SO i replaced it but with a altima94 ECU but for automatic transmission (only one could find at the moment;new cost over 800$). I was wondering what difference can it make in the car behaviour or performance! I'm thinking it could defeinitly be slower now.
Also, I bought a OBX header kit with a nismo cat (straight pipe). The only problem is that my EGR valve is going crazy, giving me from time to time a check engine light. dealer told me because you have not enough back pressure; anyone got an idea how can i fix this?
Finally, just to prevent problems, i replaced my old distributor with a new one bought on ebay (oem made in taiwan) several weeks after installation it started to give me a cam position sensor fault code! Dealer told me you need a new one made by nissan. What do you think, could it be oil that went on the sensor.. i dunno!!!
Sorry for my english.
THanks in advance

Best regards
Amer
I have heard that you can run an ECU from an AT in a MT. I imagine if it runs you would at least get an ATCU communications error, meaning the ECU cannot communicate with the ATCU. But you might be fine. Let us know how you are doing with it.

The dealer might be right that your EGR problem could be because of low backpressure. Check for a cracked EGR-BPT hose. If that looks good then follow it all the way back to the EGR passage that is just above the throttle body. You need to detach that bronze looking tube because it gets blocked with carbon and won't let the EGR valve operate correctly.

You probably got a bad distributor and will need to get it replaced if you are indeed getting a camshaft code. The only real way to fix it is to get a new one instead of a rebuild or used one.



'94 Nissan Altima SE, 5spd.
Erebuni 905, Turboing, Hotshot CAI, UR Pulley, Calum ECU,
HUD & ATC retrofitted, DEPO lamps, NGK Ignition wires.
ITEMS FOR SALE

Last edited by jserrano; 04-26-2007 at 03:48 PM.
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post #13 of 18 Old 04-26-2007, 10:34 AM
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More info!

Thanks for your input!

Well I dunno if it's my car, but i shift like a pro but do about 0-100km/h in 14 secs which is weird , my 4th gear is like useless no power at all. Considering the fact that i use mobil 1 syntetic oil with 91 gas, nology silver spark plugs, ngk blue cables, new coil, new distributor,new air filter, new fuel filter, i use fuel line cleaner from time to time, my engine has no leaks at all nor it did ever consume oil. starter & alternator are new. I mean the only things that were not replaced on my car are : wiper motor, clutch and rebuilding the engine (clutch still working good and engine is fine). Considering all this, i was wondering if u guys get better 0-100km/h! from 0-60km/h its decent.
Also, about the EGR valve, the dealer told me he replaced a hose (dunno if he cleaned anything from carbon deposits though!) He explained to me that i lack back pressure because of my OBX 4-2-1 header combined with my (30$ catalytic converter found on ebay that you all know it isnt a cat. converter, its just a staight pipe that allows more air flow). However, I noticed a little HP gain, meaning i accelerate a bit faster than before on high speed (as explained elswhere in another thread --- i think i lost some torque ! )
Finally, i went several times 200km/h with my alty and dont feel anything negative from engine, i mean it doesnt die or... I was wondering it it can go more than that , i didnt bother pushing the gas pedal more because the highway suked. I also changed few weeks ago the transmission fluide to the grade recommended by nissan 75w90 if im not mistaken, i bought redline brand,i bought 5liters but mechanic could only fill about 3.8-3.9. because the older one isnt completely gone... I also change my oil every 3500km.
Lets say that my EGR valve is fine, what would be the smartest way to fix the back pressure problem? dealer suggester an original cat. converter.
I heard you can add some restrictions, But I heard it could take lots of work and cost alot! So what you people think would be the wise choice without losing too much of my investement (obx header) ...?

Thanks
Best regards
Amer
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post #14 of 18 Old 04-26-2007, 03:56 PM
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Amer, I have some more things to say but I think you should take this discussion up on the General Discussion forum. I don't want to dirty this nice thread Steeliez put up for us.



'94 Nissan Altima SE, 5spd.
Erebuni 905, Turboing, Hotshot CAI, UR Pulley, Calum ECU,
HUD & ATC retrofitted, DEPO lamps, NGK Ignition wires.
ITEMS FOR SALE
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post #15 of 18 Old 09-03-2007, 09:48 AM
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I wanted to make a correction to Steeliez post since he is no longer around. He had stated that you can use an S13 style daughterboard for the Altima but I have found that to be incorrect. The S13 is a 32K ROM while the Altima, with the exception of the Bluebird, is a 64K ROM. That also means that the Flash EPROMs have to be at least 512Kb vice that 256Kb he mentioned.



'94 Nissan Altima SE, 5spd.
Erebuni 905, Turboing, Hotshot CAI, UR Pulley, Calum ECU,
HUD & ATC retrofitted, DEPO lamps, NGK Ignition wires.
ITEMS FOR SALE
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