x56-x50 zz4 ECU Repair - Nissan Forums : Nissan Forum
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post #1 of 15 Old 03-17-2019, 10:30 PM Thread Starter
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x56-x50 zz4 ECU Repair

Hello all
I have an 05 Maxima and the ECU is going out. Frying my coil packs on bank 2
I would like to rebuild my ECU but I need a schematic and part list.
I could reverse engineer it but that would take to long.
Is their a chance I can get the schematic and part list?

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post #2 of 15 Old 03-18-2019, 01:57 PM
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Who made this diagnosis?

If coils are frying, it's far more likely you have a bad ground in the ECU ignition harness or the engine to chassis ground strap. All the ECU does is use power transistors (electronic switches) to ground them as needed. It doesn't provide power, it just completes the circuit.

As for rebuilding, My understanding is that these things are potted...meaning they are sealed into their aluminum case with a goodly amount of epoxy to keep moisture and dirt out of the circuitry. Just getting the PCB out would require hours if not days of carefully dremeling away hardened epoxy.... Your time would be far better spent getting from a wrecker....assuming that fixing your grounds didn't fix the problem already

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post #3 of 15 Old 03-19-2019, 05:17 AM
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That OP without doubt is the funniest thing I've heard today.
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post #4 of 15 Old 03-19-2019, 01:43 PM Thread Starter
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with the engine off and the key in run position ,cylinder's 2.4.6.5 all have one wire that is at 5.08 volt
all 6 have a 12volt pin and a ground so the ones that are at 5 volt are the signal from the ECU
now the L9302-ad IC Chip X2 on the ECU board has shorted out which controls all your engine components
I wish this place would allow me to post pics so you can see this opened up.

The ECM/ECU's that are encapsulated are usually under the hood.

ADDED
the signal should not be over o.3 volt with the engine not running and the key in the run position.

Last edited by Jeff Lampe; 03-19-2019 at 01:50 PM. Reason: added
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post #5 of 15 Old 03-19-2019, 02:08 PM Thread Starter
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here I hope this works.
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post #6 of 15 Old 03-19-2019, 05:34 PM
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Ok, if you have the tools and are talented enough to unsolder those chips without damaging anything else, you should know that silicon doesn't kill magnetics, instead coils kill transistors. If those chips are in fact dead, then they were killed by 'external forces' which you still need to fix...

Here's what's waiting for you underneath that chip....and that will take quite some heat to move...


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post #7 of 15 Old 03-19-2019, 07:35 PM Thread Starter
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Yes If you look next to the chips their is 6 diodes, those are barrier Diodes or Reflector diodes.
They also need to be replaced they are their to reflect any reverse surge current from the gate of the field effect transistor (FET) in the coil pack from damaging the chip or worse the MCU.
I also have all new coil packs,
I ordered the chips So as soon as I can figure out the value those diodes I'll be in business.
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post #8 of 15 Old 03-19-2019, 07:38 PM
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Take a step back...what caused the diodes and/or the power transistors to fail in the first place?

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post #9 of 15 Old 03-19-2019, 07:45 PM Thread Starter
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That big solder pad is the heat sink for all the little FETs inside
Its all down with low temp solder
Getting the part value or part number are going to be harder then anything.

This is fun to me.
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post #10 of 15 Old 03-19-2019, 08:00 PM
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You're planning to use Bismuth based solders to alloy existing solder to reduce the release temp? Are you using hot air tools or side-heating with an iron?

I don't doubt you can replace the parts (if they have in fact failed), but let me spell it out, something changed that cause the diodes to fail causing the transistors to fail. Most likely this was caused by higher than expected voltages which exceeded the protection range of the diodes. The higher voltages would be caused by a di/dt event (coil switching off) and usually generated by a higher than expected resistance in the ground path (Lenz' law and all that) ie drain/emitter to ground, which can briefly reverse polarize the transistor diode (ie cause drain/emitter voltage to exceed source/collector). In short, if you don't fix your grounds, you'll be replacing coils and repairing your ECU again in short order.

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post #11 of 15 Old 03-19-2019, 08:07 PM Thread Starter
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You all need to understand Field Effect Transistors and the car has 247,000 miles
FETs break down after so long and short out and 247K that's a lot of turning on and off.
at 2200 rpm each fet turns on and off 6.11 times a second or 366.6 times a minute.
and those barrier Diodes they break down after a while also.
Also I have had an ASE certified Mechanic look it over.
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post #12 of 15 Old 03-19-2019, 08:12 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by d0ugmac1 View Post
You're planning to use Bismuth based solders to alloy existing solder to reduce the release temp? Are you using hot air tools or side-heating with an iron?

I don't doubt you can replace the parts (if they have in fact failed), but let me spell it out, something changed that cause the diodes to fail causing the transistors to fail. Most likely this was caused by higher than expected voltages which exceeded the protection range of the diodes. The higher voltages would be caused by a di/dt event (coil switching off) and usually generated by a higher than expected resistance in the ground path (Lenz' law and all that) ie drain/emitter to ground, which can briefly reverse polarize the transistor diode (ie cause drain/emitter voltage to exceed source/collector). In short, if you don't fix your grounds, you'll be replacing coils and repairing your ECU again in short order.
I see what you are saying I agree The Grounds Will Be Addressed.
That is one thing that is easy to address
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post #13 of 15 Old 03-20-2019, 01:59 AM
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The transistors are on the coils themselves. Each coil has 3 wires plus a 4th coil output.

I think we are getting confused with 'signal'. Signal is not active at all until engine is turning (then getting crank sensor pulses) and read with oscilloscope or Consult as you cannot read directly at the ECM, the service manual expressly calls that out as ECM damage trying. That means reading the signal wire at coil too. Signal is NOT coil power which is on with key on engine off.

6 times a second is work??? That is not working at all on the transistor, they can work 100X times faster than that. I ran a single switching transistor ignition box for 8 cylinder race engines at 7000+ rpm (466X a second) and never failed one at all.

There is also a central condenser in the coil power circuit that if bad could do damage as well. It absorbs transistor volt spikes besides keeping radio sound clean.

I agree, look at the grounds, they must be clean. And that condenser.

Not that easy to solder a chip that small in but not undoable.........
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post #14 of 15 Old 03-20-2019, 03:32 AM Thread Starter
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The 2200 rpm is general highway speed and I was only using that a general Idea then you got to figure city miles and Idle time.

you say their is a central condenser in the coil power circuit where is that located I need to check that two.
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post #15 of 15 Old 03-21-2019, 05:36 AM
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Looks like around the middle of one of the valve covers but close to the top edge. A square thing sticking out of the coil harness on that side. It fits into the 12V power lead that then splits up to power all coils on the plus side.
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