DIY - 02-06 Rear Motor Mount Replacement - Nissan Forums : Nissan Forum
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DIY - 02-06 Rear Motor Mount Replacement

First off, while there are pictures, they were taken after I did the work. I'm sure it can still help people out though, since I didn't find much information for changing out the rear motor mount on these cars.

This isn't a huge job, but it will require the removal of the passenger side axle, or driveshaft as Nissan calls it. Getting the motor mount out without removing this is likely impossible, and not worth trying IMO, since the axles are so easily removed. Also, one bolt will run into the transmission case when trying to remove. It's easiest to cut this off and use a new one, installed backwards. See part number below.

Do this at your own risk. This is a guide and I cannot be held responsible if anything bad occurs. All provided torque specs are taken from the Nissan Factory Service Manual.

- Two new cotter pins (one for axle nut, one for lower ball joint nut)
- New motor mount bolt, Nissan part number 11298-8J005

- Several wrenches, sockets, and socket extensions
- 32mm socket (for axle nut)
- Decent pneumatic/electric impact or breaker bar
- Torque wrenches, medium and large
- Prybar
- Ball peen hammer
- Needle nose or slip-joint pliers
- Jack and jack stands
- Duct tape
- 4" or 4-1/2" angle grinder preferred; if not, a hacksaw, Dremel, or other way to cut a bolt head off
- Pneumatic ratchet if you have one

1) Jack up the front of the car and place it on jack stands.

2) Remove negative battery cable, just to be safe.

3) Remove front passenger wheel and tire.

NOTE: Steps 4-10 and 25-30 can use this video as a guide:

4) Straighten and pull out the cotter pin which holds captive the nut, circled in red below, holding the stud from the lower ball joint to the steering knuckle. Once pulled out, loosen but DO NOT remove the nut, using a 22 mm wrench.

DSC_0821 by Girchy Girchy, on Flickr

5) Carefully put your pry bar between the steering knuckle and lower control arm in the green circled region above, making sure not to put pressure on the ball joint's rubber boot, and smack the control arm a couple of times with your hammer. It should pop loose. If not, you might need to try an actual lower ball joint removal tool. Once free, remove the red circled nut completely.

6) Straighten and pull out the cotter pin holding the axle nut, circled in red below, captive. Using your impact or breaker bar, and a 32mm socket, loosen and remove the axle nut.

DSC_0838 by Girchy Girchy, on Flickr

7) Using a ratchet, socket, and a couple of long extensions, reach through to the three small bolts (circled in red below, one hidden behind the axle) holding the axle's carrier bearing to its bracket. Loosen and remove all three.

DSC_0825 by Girchy Girchy, on Flickr

8) This is where the video becomes really handy. Press down on the lower control arm to free the lower ball joint. Then, slightly swing the steering knuckle and hub out just a tiny bit, and tap the end of the axle with the ball peen hammer to break it free from the hub. Once free, swing the knuckle out further so you can pass the axle out the back side of the hub.

9) Once the end of the axle is free of the hub and steering knuckle, pull it straight out to free it from the carrier bearing support and transmission case, and slide it completely out from the car. You may need to pry gently between the carrier bearing and its support, but mine came free easily.

10) Cut two 4" or so long pieces of duct tape, and put them over the hole in the transmission case where the axle passes through. This will prevent any dust from entering the trans case.

Now, on to the actual motor mount. All work will be done from below.

11) Loosen and remove the two small bolts holding the fuel line bracket onto the rear motor mount. They're circled in green in the next two pictures. Move the bracket out of the way.

DSC_0828 by Girchy Girchy, on Flickr

DSC_0830 by Girchy Girchy, on Flickr

12) Loosen BUT DO NOT REMOVE all three rear motor mount bolts, circled in red above - note that the lower two have loose nuts, but the top does not.

13) Move the jack to the transmission pan or some other spot in that region which will lift the engine/transmission but allow you to work on the rear mount. Make sure there's wood, rubber, or something else soft between the jack's cradle and the engine. Gently lift the engine a very small amount. Check to see if you can freely spin the three rear motor mount bolts. If not, raise or lower the engine a tiny bit more, then check again, until they spin.

14) Loosen and remove the top motor mount bolt and both nuts from the lower bolts (here's where the pneumatic ratchet's handy), and slide out the rear lower bolt. Here's where you'll find the front lower bolt will run into the transmission. In the picture below, this bolt is circled in red, but this is the "after" shot. You can see the transmission case in the upper foreground which the old bolt will run into.

DSC_0834 by Girchy Girchy, on Flickr

15) Remove the two bolts, circled in green above, holding the exhaust heat shield to the crossmember. Grab your Dremel or angle grinder and cut the head off from the stuck motor mount bolt bolt, being careful not to cut anything else in the region. Make sure you're also out of the way so that when the bolt head falls, it drops safely to the ground and not on your arm, chest, in your mouth, etc. Once the head's removed, let the bolt cool and then remove it from the other side.

16) Once all bolts are out, slide out and, using the jack, slowly raise the engine/transmission until you see the front of the car begin to rise. DON'T RUIN THE TRANSMISSION CASE. Hold that spot.

17) Back underneath, grab the old motor mount. On these, the upper through hole in the mount is partially held in place by some shoulders on the motor mount bracket bolted to the engine, so you can't lift it up. To get it out, move the lower portion of the motor mount down and rearward, and the top through hole should be able to slide down and out towards the back. Then raise the mount up and, once clear of its brackets, towards the passenger side, turning it sideways and then updside down as you lower it down through the gap.

In other words, bottom of motor mount moves down and back. Then move the top of mount down and back. Wiggle it up, and once clear, turn it in the air as if it was fired from a cannon to clear the rest of the obstructions until it's upside down and you can pull it out.

18) Grab the rubber donut/washer from the old mount and keep it handy. The new one doesn't have this.

19) Take your new mount and inspect the rubber piece to make sure it's fitted correctly. Then feed it up, over, and back down in the reverse manner of how it was removed. Make sure the donut/washer's installed on the passenger side again, and that everything lines up.

20) Screw in the top bolt through the engine's bracket, through the new mount, and thread it into its captive nut, leaving it loose.

21) Begin to lower the jack in small increments until the holes in the new motor mount line up with the subframe bracket. Once aligned, slide the re-used rear bolt in from the driver's side (same as how it came from the factory), and slide the new front bolt in from the passenger side. Thread the nuts on and use your pneumatic ratchet to run them down, if you have one.

22) Torque the two lower bolts to 51-72 ft-lbs and the upper bolt to 58-72 ft-lbs.

23) Lower the jack from the transmission and move it out of the way.

24) Find the two little bolts and replace the fuel line bracket to the new rear motor mount. Use your judgement for tightness, I couldn't find a spec.

25) Remove the duct tape from the transmission case.

26) Gently feed the axle back through the carrier bearing support and into the transmission case, making sure the splines in the axle line up with the output shaft of the differential. It should slide in easily and look like the image below, where it's circled in red. Check to make sure the carrier bearing is flat against its support...there should be absolutely no gap!

DSC_0827 by Girchy Girchy, on Flickr

27) Reinstall the three bolts holding the carrier bearing to its support, circled in red, torquing them to 10-13 ft-lbs.

28) Tilt the steering knuckle out and feed the end of the axle back through the middle of the hub, again ensuring that the splines line up and it feeds through easily.

29) Feed the lower ball joint stud through its hole in the bottom of the steering knuckle. Replace the nut on top and torque to 58 ft-lbs. Slide in a new cotter pin and bend it into place. It should look like the driver's side joint.

30) Thread on the axle nut to the end of the axle. Tighten to 203 ft-lbs. You'll need to do something on the driver's side wheel to prevent it from rotating...have someone else hold it, put something under the tire, etc. Just be careful.

31) Install a new cotter pin on the axle and bend it into place. It should look like the first picture in this write-up.

32) Replace the wheel, torque the lug nuts to 75 ft-lbs.

33) Reinstall the negative cable to the battery.

34) Jack up the front, remove the jack stands, lower jack, drive away!

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