New here, 2006 altima 3.5. Big issue with ABS - Page 2 - Nissan Forums : Nissan Forum
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post #16 of 31 Old 04-01-2019, 08:28 PM Thread Starter
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I'm really lost here :/
I've tried to look at M-trains thread for reference, but sadly all the images are broken. From my understanding there is some sort of tab you are supposed to pull on towards the car, and it will unlock the connector? I just can't find this tab..

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post #17 of 31 Old 04-01-2019, 08:39 PM Thread Starter
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Update: got the connector out. A little disappointed... these connectors look brand new. Here are images

Now what? Should I get a new module? It seems pretty simple to measure resistance for the rear connectors, but how do I measure continuity with the main connectir? Never done that before.. I know what setting continuity is I just don’t know what pins to test. Should I test for continuity in the rear too? I don’t know much about wiring really...

Also are there supposed to be pins “missing” on this connector?
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Last edited by byte; 04-01-2019 at 09:58 PM.
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post #18 of 31 Old 04-01-2019, 10:10 PM
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Yep, nothing wrong with those contacts. Using the FSM sections posted earlier, you can figure out which pins go to which corner of the car. From that point you can disconnect the sensor and short one end of the signal pair...either at the wheel or the ABS sensor (think wheel will be easier), then measure the resistance of the loop (ie from the ABS pin-y to ABS pin-y). The answer should be pretty much 0 ohms, maybe 0.3, but not 1 ohm or greater. Compare side to side, front to back. This should allow you to test all wiring going to the 4 corners. If you don't find anything oddball in the wiring then we take a step back.

On a side note.... I know for the '02-'03 vintage cars some had ABS some didn't...I'm pretty sure '07 on all do. Where I'm going with this is that means there are wheel hub assemblies that have the ABS ring and some that don't....obviously if you don't have an ABS sensor ring on your hub assembly...you ABS will never see rotational pulses from the sensor and it will trip codes. Any chance this could be the issue?

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post #19 of 31 Old 04-01-2019, 10:17 PM
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Just confirmed this is in fact a possibility

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...+assembly,1636

Nissan OEM HID, Morimoto bulbs/harness, RacingLine Y-pipe, Strut Brace, Stillen Swaybar, ETI LED Fogs,
BBK: PowerStop Powder Coated Calipers: M45 Front/Stock Rears w/StopTech slotted sport rotors
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Altima FSMs 94-09 Useful posts: Bose Upgrade / Alternator / Bad Ground / Rear Brakes / TPMS Reset /
/ Spurious ABS / Audio Power / ABS Diag / Steering Lock / Lower VQ rad hose / VQ Belt Squeak /
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post #20 of 31 Old 04-01-2019, 11:01 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by d0ugmac1 View Post
Just confirmed this is in fact a possibility

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...+assembly,1636
I thought of that already actually, I ended up swapping wheel bearings to test the possibility, didn't change anything.
I have come back with findings though. The connector to my good sensor measured at 0.8 or 1.02 ohms front probing it (depending on polarity). My bad sides connector measured at...... 0? I am so confused. I thought no resistance was a good thing and resistance meant something was wrong... I guess the wires are completely severed somewhere. At least I know I definitely have a wiring issue. I just need to find it now. Hooray...

I should also note there is a good bit of wire sticking out from the black insulation on the bad connector compared to the good one. like this ---===--- vs the good one looks like -=====-. No damage to the wire that I can see though. Rubber insulation is still there just sticky from the wiring harness insulation.

Part of me really just wishes I could turn off the abs system and get that stupid light off for now until I get this figured out. Doubt that's possible without some sort of reprogramming though, and at that point I may as well just find the issue and fix it.

Last edited by byte; 04-01-2019 at 11:12 PM.
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post #21 of 31 Old 04-01-2019, 11:58 PM Thread Starter
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Lol found the problem
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post #22 of 31 Old 04-02-2019, 01:16 AM Thread Starter
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Problem fixed, I think some jackass mechanic cut that wire to try and make some money off the car. This is how I purchased it. First time it's had the abs light off! I crimped the wires together, which was very tough as the wires were literally under the suspension. It's all working good though! Thank you again!
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post #23 of 31 Old 04-02-2019, 03:13 AM Thread Starter
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If you don’t mind this is off topic but now that I am fixing the car I do have one more problem... my power steering was previously leaking pretty bad and after the shop repaired it I got a P0441 code for incorrect purge flow. What usually causes this do you know? Thank you so much again.
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post #24 of 31 Old 04-02-2019, 01:20 PM
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Not at all...glad you found your wiring problem BTW!

https://www.autocodes.com/p0441_2006...ima_sedan.html

Again, could be something as simple as a loose/leaking filler cap, or maybe they disturbed some of the hoses/wiring around the charcoal canister while doing the rack repair.

FWIW, my '03 used to rust around the lip of the filler neck, and that would cause a loss of vacuum and the CEL to go on. Jammed a rag in, buffed off the rust, little lithium grease...and revisit every 6m

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post #25 of 31 Old 04-02-2019, 04:40 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by d0ugmac1 View Post
Not at all...glad you found your wiring problem BTW!

https://www.autocodes.com/p0441_2006...ima_sedan.html

Again, could be something as simple as a loose/leaking filler cap, or maybe they disturbed some of the hoses/wiring around the charcoal canister while doing the rack repair.

FWIW, my '03 used to rust around the lip of the filler neck, and that would cause a loss of vacuum and the CEL to go on. Jammed a rag in, buffed off the rust, little lithium grease...and revisit every 6m
Trust me... so am I

I did just get a new duralast fuel cap to try and ruel out the problem but I’m kindve suspicious about it? Only because it’s not OEM.

J should’ve been more specific though. One of the lines to my power steering pump was leaking, not the rack itself. I’ll look around there to see if i can find anything evap related.

Will also have a look at my filler neck, good call.
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post #26 of 31 Old 04-02-2019, 04:41 PM
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I bought an aftermarket cap for my '03...didn't fix the problem.

Nissan OEM HID, Morimoto bulbs/harness, RacingLine Y-pipe, Strut Brace, Stillen Swaybar, ETI LED Fogs,
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post #27 of 31 Old 04-02-2019, 04:52 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by d0ugmac1 View Post
I bought an aftermarket cap for my '03...didn't fix the problem.
Just swapped the oring inside the aftermarket cap with the oem, so i’m using aftermarket oring with oem cap, hopefully that does something. the orings do look different though...

Oh, I also found this random hose in my engine bay? Don’t know what it is supposed to go to...
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post #28 of 31 Old 04-02-2019, 05:40 PM
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Pretty sure I have that hose too...I think it's a breather for something related to the transmission...maybe the clutch area?

Nissan OEM HID, Morimoto bulbs/harness, RacingLine Y-pipe, Strut Brace, Stillen Swaybar, ETI LED Fogs,
BBK: PowerStop Powder Coated Calipers: M45 Front/Stock Rears w/StopTech slotted sport rotors
BOSE Headunit w/USB & BT (2012 update), Dunlop Signature HP (summer) / Blizzak WS80 (winter)

Altima FSMs 94-09 Useful posts: Bose Upgrade / Alternator / Bad Ground / Rear Brakes / TPMS Reset /
/ Spurious ABS / Audio Power / ABS Diag / Steering Lock / Lower VQ rad hose / VQ Belt Squeak /
/ Brake Job / RA 5% Discount
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post #29 of 31 Old 04-02-2019, 06:18 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by d0ugmac1 View Post
Pretty sure I have that hose too...I think it's a breather for something related to the transmission...maybe the clutch area?
Yeah the hose looks pretty normal and I saw it on a google images picture.

There’s no rust in my filler neck, but I do notice sometimes the gas pump clicks way way before it’s even filled. I also smell gas when I undo my gas cap, but I’m sure that’s normal. However... I don’t see any flap that blocks the gas from coming out how I do on most cars...

Last edited by byte; 04-02-2019 at 06:21 PM.
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post #30 of 31 Old 04-15-2019, 09:09 PM
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From what you've described, I understand you know cars. Perhaps to save money, you should use the car maintenance app to identify the problem, or give the mechanics but only to diagnose so that it points to the problem but doesn't fix it. I think that the fix yourself will be in your power, and for the diagnosis will not take a lot of money.

Last edited by Penguinchit; 05-07-2019 at 01:22 PM. Reason: Vendor status required
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