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post #1 of 13 Old 06-06-2018, 02:00 AM Thread Starter
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Question Fast turn signal & more

I had a hitch and wiring harness installed on our 2007 Murano. FWIW, UHaul did the install and they tapped the wires using quick splice connectors.
Since that day, the left turn signal is fast and the rear left light is OUT. Also have the airbag light blinking. Sounds like the fast signal is caused by the light out but this is a HUGE coincidence.
Anything else to look at?

Thoughts on how the airbag could be affected?

\\Greg


Last edited by Greg Martin; 06-06-2018 at 02:12 AM. Reason: missed a key point
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post #2 of 13 Old 06-06-2018, 05:49 AM
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Any time the airbag lights trigger to have a code they often will not work in a crash. Need to get that back right quick.
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post #3 of 13 Old 06-06-2018, 12:15 PM
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Unrelated.

Chances are your quick splice cowboy severed the wire going to the turn lamp assembly. Should be an easy fix.

The airbag warning light is far more worrisome...as amc49 said...if it's flashing there's a good chance it isn't working. You can decode the error by putting the airbag controler into diagnostic mode. I'm pretty sure I posted the how's and where's when I replaced my '03 front crash sensor. Let me know if you don't have any success with googling what you need.
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post #4 of 13 Old 06-07-2018, 02:07 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by d0ugmac1 View Post
Unrelated.

Chances are your quick splice cowboy severed the wire going to the turn lamp assembly. Should be an easy fix.
There is a spot with a crimp. guess I have a project.

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Originally Posted by d0ugmac1 View Post
The airbag warning light is far more worrisome...as amc49 said...if it's flashing there's a good chance it isn't working. You can decode the error by putting the airbag controler into diagnostic mode. I'm pretty sure I posted the how's and where's when I replaced my '03 front crash sensor. Let me know if you don't have any success with googling what you need.
I'll have a look.

\\Greg
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post #5 of 13 Old 06-07-2018, 02:14 AM
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Here's a link to my post about the 'Airbag Debug' mode:

https://www.nissanclub.com/forums/201...ml#post5527642

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post #6 of 13 Old 06-10-2018, 11:26 PM Thread Starter
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I managed to fix the taillights. I went back to UHaul and after looking at it they said the TL must be out and that it is an assembly and they wouldn't have the parts.
Today I took it all apart, disconnected the trailer wiring and tested the wiring. All looked good. Out of ideas, I removed the RT light and connected it to the left side and IT WORKED. I reconnected both lights and all was working. I do not understand it, but I'll take it.
I went ahead and reconnected the trailer harness and it still looked good.

Next I have to look at the airbag. Thanks for the link @d0ugmac1

\\Greg
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post #7 of 13 Old 06-10-2018, 11:44 PM
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The take it out, put it back in and it works again thing is often related to a failing bulb socket (it's been arc'ing and carbon has built up). Check the bulb socket and bulb base for signs of overheating (discoloration, yellowing). It will fail again, sooner or later.

Let me know on the airbag stuff.
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post #8 of 13 Old 06-10-2018, 11:44 PM Thread Starter
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Cool Success

Quote:
Originally Posted by d0ugmac1 View Post
Here's a link to my post about the 'Airbag Debug' mode:

https://www.nissanclub.com/forums/201...ml#post5527642
This worked. Airbag light now out

\\Greg
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post #9 of 13 Old 06-11-2018, 12:30 AM
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Double-header success! Thanks for the conclusion...and if I'm not mistaken you are out about exactly $0
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post #10 of 13 Old 06-11-2018, 12:33 AM Thread Starter
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Double-header success! Thanks for the conclusion...and if I'm not mistaken you are out about exactly $0
Exactly what I told a friend. (except for the 2 hours but it was well worth it).
Wish I understood why the taillight worked.
Thanks again.

\\Greg
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post #11 of 13 Old 06-11-2018, 12:38 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by d0ugmac1 View Post
The take it out, put it back in and it works again thing is often related to a failing bulb socket (it's been arc'ing and carbon has built up). Check the bulb socket and bulb base for signs of overheating (discoloration, yellowing). It will fail again, sooner or later.

Let me know on the airbag stuff.
(Just saw this reply) I didn't touch a bulb. The light assembly has a 4 pin connector. I DC'd both (had to unbolt unit from car) and plugged the right into the left. I had previously DC'd an RC'd the left unit in place to no avail.

\\Greg
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post #12 of 13 Old 06-11-2018, 01:05 AM
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Got it. What I said applies just as much to the assembly as it does a single bulb, something is flaky, and if mechanically 'redoing' things makes it work, then moisture, road vibration and time will likely 'undo' it sooner or later. Assembly must permit the replacement of bulbs, and if there is a single connector, then most likely there is an issue with the printed circuit inside the assembly that distributes the signals from the connector to the actual bulbs. The fact you 'fixed' the problem by playing with the assembly's wiring connector likely means the issue is related...so if the connector pins and sockets all seem 100%...then the issue is probably inside the assembly where the 'connector' is soldered to the flexible mylar film that distributes those connections to the bulb. Was probably a poor factory connection that has failed over time...by replugging...you changed the physics just enough that you now get a connection again...but Murphy's Law applies and it will almost certainly stop working again.

At that point you have a couple of options:

0 - bake the lamp assembly in your oven, open it up, try to fix the internal circuit, re-bake and re-assemble
$ - get a used one from an auto recycler
$$ - get a new aftermarket one from CarID or RockAuto
$$$$ - go to the dealer

Nissan OEM HID, Morimoto bulbs/harness, RacingLine Y-pipe, Strut Brace, Stillen Swaybar, ETI LED Fogs,
BBK: PowerStop Powder Coated Calipers: M45 Front/Stock Rears w/StopTech slotted sport rotors
BOSE Headunit w/USB & BT (2012 update), Dunlop Signature HP (summer) / Blizzak WS80 (winter)

Altima FSMs 94-09 Useful posts: Bose Upgrade / Alternator / Bad Ground / Rear Brakes / TPMS Reset /
/ Spurious ABS / Audio Power / ABS Diag / Steering Lock / Lower VQ rad hose / VQ Belt Squeak /
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post #13 of 13 Old 06-16-2018, 06:16 AM
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If the modern bulb type with wires at the bulb for contacts then the spring blades in the connectors get hot to relax and then one bulb may touch and another not and even changing around can make them act up. If so then simply sticking something relatively sharp in to be able to get on the backside of the SOCKET contacts to pry them closer together will often fix the issue for years. I have fits with that issue on Fords.

Of course, if the contacts are bluing up and appear to be melting things there is more to do there. The Fords at times even melt the sockets to hardweld them to the lens assemblies and then you have to use a dremel and cutting wheel to carefully separate them again to fix and use over. Or pay big $$$$$$$$$ for new lens assemblies. Ridiculous. I swear they do that sh-t on purpose.

On Nissan I have found bulb assemblies that are so loose the bulbs fall out, a piece of shim made up from cardboard like business card to shim the fixture contacts tighter and good for years then.
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