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post #46 of 118 Old 02-08-2009, 12:58 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by xroad View Post
I am trying to remove the rotor on my 05 Sentra (1.8L). Having a tough time. Do I need to remove the 30mm nut in the center? That is the nut that is protected by a cotter pin. I see behind the nut is a spline. I am suspecting the rotor have no spline and the spline is part of the hub?
DO NOT REMOVE THAT NUT !!! that nut removes the hub so you can get to the wheel bearing .


to remove the rotor you have to remove both the caliper (2 bolts) and caliper bracket (2 bolts) , then you just remove the rotor .



sometimes the rotor doesn't want to come off , you will have to take a 3-4 lbs mini sledge (aka - drilling hammer) and whack the rotors braking surface to crack it loose .



Last edited by jimnolimit; 02-08-2009 at 01:02 PM.
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post #47 of 118 Old 02-08-2009, 08:50 PM
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Do I Need to Clean the Piston at the Caliper?

OK, JimNoLimit, thanks for your reply. The 30mm nut is back on. Some WD40 and a few whack with a rubber mallot got the rotor off. Put in new rotors.

Do I need to clean the edge of the piston before I push it back in? I used two pieces of wood shims to protect the brake pads and used a screw driver to pry the pad/piston back into the caliper. Reason I asked is the rotation seems stiff while in neutral. Feels like the pads are grabing the rotor. A short drive around the block ... the rotor is hot to the touch. Should it be like that? I can turn the wheel with my hands but the wheel is a big "lever". I suspect if the wheel is off and I try to turn it by the studs, it'll feel a lot tighter.

Maybe there are dirt around the edge of the piston as it is expose more as the pads or the rotors wears down. New rotor is thicker and requires the piston to be pushed back more. If there is dirt, it will not receed when the brake peddle is release?
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post #48 of 118 Old 02-09-2009, 09:31 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by xroad View Post
OK, JimNoLimit, thanks for your reply. The 30mm nut is back on. Some WD40 and a few whack with a rubber mallot got the rotor off. Put in new rotors.

Do I need to clean the edge of the piston before I push it back in? I used two pieces of wood shims to protect the brake pads and used a screw driver to pry the pad/piston back into the caliper. Reason I asked is the rotation seems stiff while in neutral. Feels like the pads are grabing the rotor. A short drive around the block ... the rotor is hot to the touch. Should it be like that? I can turn the wheel with my hands but the wheel is a big "lever". I suspect if the wheel is off and I try to turn it by the studs, it'll feel a lot tighter.

Maybe there are dirt around the edge of the piston as it is expose more as the pads or the rotors wears down. New rotor is thicker and requires the piston to be pushed back more. If there is dirt, it will not receed when the brake peddle is release?

i never recommend pushing the piston back with a screw driver , i don't know why people even consider doing that , the tool (brake pad spreader) is $9.99 at sears http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00947365000P


i put the old brake pad against the piston and just crank it back in , it only takes about 15 seconds to do .




as you drive the rotor will get hot , sometimes very hot , that's what brakes do , they convert forward motion into heat .

brakes shouldn't free spin , you should be able to easily spin the wheel with the car jacked up .

i would bleed the brakes , if you know how !!! . try doing about 5-6 pumps per side , that should clear the lines out , but only if you know how !!!

i would also grease the caliper slides .

Last edited by jimnolimit; 02-09-2009 at 09:39 AM.
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post #49 of 118 Old 02-09-2009, 02:14 PM
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Thanks again.

I always wonder if using a screw driver put uneven pressure on the piston and making it "cocked" to one side. I will definitely get myself a pad spreader.

Actually, I usually have more trouble removing the calipers. The rotor usually have a ridge from the wear and that is where the pad gots caught. How do you spread the pads at that point?

Would new pads or new rotor need some time to seat-in or mates to each other before the slight drag goes away?

I'll do a brake bleed this weekend.
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post #50 of 118 Old 02-10-2009, 12:00 AM
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u should also do the brake pad bed in procedure recommended by the manufacturer of ur pads so that it properly "seats" against ur rotors.

yea, the screwdriver could put uneven pressure on the piston. more importantly it could pierce the seal and then ur caliper would need to be replaced.

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this forum needs to make new members watch an instructional video before their first post.
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this effing kid has 27 posts, and about a dozen threads started, wtf? YOU ARE NOT THE FIRST PERSON TO OWN AND WANT TO MOD YOUR ALTIMA...SEARCH FOR YOUR ANSWERS YOU LAZY BASTARD
fun times
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post #51 of 118 Old 02-10-2009, 03:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Agent00Alti View Post
u should also do the brake pad bed in procedure recommended by the manufacturer of ur pads so that it properly "seats" against ur rotors.

yea, the screwdriver could put uneven pressure on the piston. more importantly it could pierce the seal and then ur caliper would need to be replaced.
Bedding in the new brake pads and rotors ..... What I have been doing is hang farther back from the car in front of me so I can brake earlier and lighter. I avoided all heavy braking. I even avoided some light braking by coasting early toward the red light to catch the green. My commute is 26 mi hwy with 0.5 m and 3.5 mi local streets at both ends of the commute. Slow driving. I have to admit I never really look into the proper method.

Will be buying a pad spreading tool. If the pad is installed, wouldn't it cover (protecting) the seal from the screw driver?

-xroad
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post #52 of 118 Old 02-10-2009, 08:10 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by xroad View Post
1. Thanks again.

2. Actually, I usually have more trouble removing the calipers. The rotor usually have a ridge from the wear and that is where the pad gots caught. How do you spread the pads at that point?

3. Would new pads or new rotor need some time to seat-in or mates to each other before the slight drag goes away?

4. I'll do a brake bleed this weekend.

1. anytime .

2. the pads sit in the caliper bracket , the caliper should come right off .




3. there usually is .

4. that's always a good idea . i bleed out the lines (5-6 pedal pumps) every time i change pads . make sure you buy brake fluid before you start bleeding !

Last edited by jimnolimit; 02-10-2009 at 08:13 AM.
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post #53 of 118 Old 05-21-2009, 04:02 AM Thread Starter
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bump .
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post #54 of 118 Old 05-30-2009, 05:58 AM
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NOTE: THE CALIPER MOUNTING BOLTS are 22MM. I had to use a breaker bar and PVC piping in order to loosen the bolts. I just lifted the whole front in so that I could turn the wheels in the proper direction to use the breaker bar and PVC piping combo.
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post #55 of 118 Old 05-30-2009, 09:59 AM Thread Starter
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NOTE: THE CALIPER MOUNTING BOLTS are 22MM. I had to use a breaker bar and PVC piping in order to loosen the bolts. I just lifted the whole front in so that I could turn the wheels in the proper direction to use the breaker bar and PVC piping combo.
i will double check my bolts in a few days , i could swear they were 19mm .
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post #56 of 118 Old 05-30-2009, 06:45 PM
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my front right wheel is off right now. main caliper bolts are 22mm. smaller caliper bolts, like the pic above, are 14mm.
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post #57 of 118 Old 05-30-2009, 06:59 PM
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Here are the torque specs I used
Caliper mounting bolts (130 Ft.lbs)
Caliper sliding bolts (25 Ft.lbs)

Now I am confident everything will stay together. I was surprised that my new Nissan rotors were painted black in the center.
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post #58 of 118 Old 05-30-2009, 07:07 PM Thread Starter
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i have a socket on my main caliper bolt right now and i took a pic , my bolt is 19mm , i don't know but it seems nissan used different sizes


Last edited by jimnolimit; 05-30-2009 at 07:35 PM.
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post #59 of 118 Old 05-30-2009, 08:02 PM
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wow. strange. just for reference, mine is 2002 2.5s.
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post #60 of 118 Old 05-30-2009, 08:11 PM Thread Starter
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wow. strange. just for reference, mine is 2002 2.5s.
i'll make a note in my installation instructions about the 2 sizes .
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