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post #106 of 118 Old 02-16-2012, 02:01 PM
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Hey guys, not sure if this is where i need to be to ask this question but ive tried looking around. last saturday I went out to NAPA and bought a set of front brake pads for my 06 altima. The install seemed fairly easy, i took of the tire (obvously) lol and then the caliper and then the pads just popped out. i installed the new pads, made sure those clips hooked intot he pads and screwed the caliper back on and everything. once it was installed my dad decided to test the brakes immediately with hard 30kph -0 braking and whatnot, and ive heard thats bad but i mean too late now couldnt control his lead foot. anyways my brakes are still squeeking and have ever since i installed the new pads. I dont know if i should take my car to a shop or if there is something i can do for it. Im not sure if te just need to be "broken into" or if this can be handled some other way. Thanks.


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post #107 of 118 Old 09-28-2012, 01:00 AM
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post #108 of 118 Old 07-24-2017, 02:54 AM
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Hi guys just did a brake job on my 2010 altima but I am having some problems. First of all they are squealing loud when i come to a stop. I replaced pads + rotors. I lubed the sides of the pads and the caliper pins with permatex caliper grease.(the green stuff)

I Also scrubbed the caliper,bracket like mad with a flathead screwdriver to get all gunk/rust buildup off.

Why would they be squealing???


Also does anybody have the torqe specs for the caliper bolts and the bracket bolts?
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post #109 of 118 Old 07-24-2017, 01:32 PM
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Which pads and rotors did you buy? Did you break them in per the mfr's recommendation (usually a cycle of driving/braking/driving/braking/driving driving driving)?

I used Permatex Purple (ceramic) when I did mine and they've been fine. Green stuff should work just as well if applied to all the right places (did you put any between the shims and the pads?).

Torque specs are in the exploded diagrams in the FSM. For instace, the rear caliper shown on BR-41 shows 43 for the caliper bolts and 84 for the bracket and 18 for the banjo bolt.

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post #110 of 118 Old 07-24-2017, 10:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by d0ugmac1 View Post
Which pads and rotors did you buy? Did you break them in per the mfr's recommendation (usually a cycle of driving/braking/driving/braking/driving driving driving)?

I used Permatex Purple (ceramic) when I did mine and they've been fine. Green stuff should work just as well if applied to all the right places (did you put any between the shims and the pads?).

Torque specs are in the exploded diagrams in the FSM. For instace, the rear caliper shown on BR-41 shows 43 for the caliper bolts and 84 for the bracket and 18 for the banjo bolt.
I bought wearever gold ceramics and wearever rotors. I just did the front end.

I have just been driving normally. I dont really have an area to slam on the breaks constantly and cruise for 10+ mins without a stop light.

I put the green stuff only on the caliper piston and the corners of the pads. And all over the slider pins.

Also i had a friend help and he told me there was no need to bleed the brakes so I just opened up the brake reservoir and pushed the piston in with a c-clamp. The fluid is above full now at ther very top but he said that is fine.

After reading a few forums posts about brakes i learned your suppose to open the bleeder screw on ABS systems or the old fluid will push back ruin it?????

Should i go and get a brake fluid flush/bleed asap??

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post #111 of 118 Old 07-25-2017, 01:57 AM
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You don't have to bleed (it's less messy but only if you have topped off since the last pad change) and bleeding certainly won't fix the squeal. Squeal is a function of the interaction between the rotor, the pad and the caliper.

My guess is you need grease somewhere you don't have it. I would remove the pads, and remove the metal shims (thin plates that clip to back of pad). Thin layer all over back of pad plate, thin layer on both sides of the shim and reassemble shim to pad. Grease inside the pad slider clips/channels/guides so they don't bind.

Then you really need to break in your pads. Everyone can find a road that's pretty deserted later in the evening. You don't have to go super fast, usually up to 40mph, brake to 15mph and back up, you do this until you can smell that 'hot brake' smell (windows open of course) because that means the resin in the pad is hot enough to transfer to the rotor and complete the chemical braking system. Then you drive long enough to cool the pads and rotors down, go home, and have a beer. If you have to stop (children on tricycles, whatever), then redo the heating cycle and retry the cool down. Otherwise you can wind up with an uneven layer of resin on the rotor which will be really annoying thereafter...

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post #112 of 118 Old 07-25-2017, 03:59 AM
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Ok i will remove everything (again) and make put the grease on the corners of the pads again and the brake pad hardware.
I dont think i can remove the shim. The description says multi-layer SoundLock noise dampening shim and its already installed on the pad. So should i just put paste on the back of it?
I will also try to bed the brakes later.

Last edited by Zappyisfun; 07-25-2017 at 04:19 AM.
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post #113 of 118 Old 07-25-2017, 03:26 PM
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my shims unclipped, yours should too. At the very least do the back, but if you are taking it all apart, I'd try to see if they are removable.

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post #114 of 118 Old 07-25-2017, 08:52 PM
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I have an additional question.

When i pushed my caliper pistons back in with the c-clamp I only pushed them far enough to fit over the new pads.

Could that cause brake drag or noise if i did,not push them all the way into the bore?

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post #115 of 118 Old 07-25-2017, 09:13 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zappyisfun View Post
I have an additional question.

When i pushed my caliper pistons back in with the c-clamp I only pushed them far enough to fit over the new pads.

Could that cause brake drag or noise if i did,not push them all the way into the bore?

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That would be fine, smart even. With older calipers you don't want to go all the way back anyways in case the lip is corroded/rusted. Grease and bedding is the answer--unless something bad happened with the wear tabs during install?

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post #116 of 118 Old 07-29-2017, 02:41 AM
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Are those torqe numbers in ft pounds or nm


And also do the noise indicator clips on the pads go on top or the bottom of the rotor?? My friend said they should be facing the bottom but all the pics i see and when i took the old,pads off they were facing up...does,it matter?


Still have not got the sqealing to go away. Might just bring it to a shop
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Last edited by Zappyisfun; 07-29-2017 at 04:47 AM.
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post #117 of 118 Old 08-03-2017, 03:49 AM
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Update on my brakes.

Brought it to a shop and they said the pads are glazed and i bought cheap rotors and pads.

They cleaned/greased Everything. And said thats the best they can do.

Still squeals when I stop and after about 15 mins of driving starts squealing constantly untill i push the brake pedal.

Geuss ill just live with it untill its time to change pads again

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post #118 of 118 Old 08-03-2017, 05:37 PM
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Your pads are glazed because they were not broken in properly. This means they are not as effective as they should be, so replace or drive accordingly.

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BBK: PowerStop Powder Coated Calipers: M45 Front/Stock Rears w/StopTech slotted sport rotors
BOSE Headunit w/USB & BT (2012 update), Dunlop Signature HP (summer) / Blizzak WS80 (winter)

Altima FSMs 94-09 Useful posts: Bose Upgrade / Alternator / Bad Ground / Rear Brakes / TPMS Reset /
/ Spurious ABS / Audio Power / ABS Diag / Steering Lock / Lower VQ rad hose / VQ Belt Squeak /
/ Brake Job / RA 5% Discount
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