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Thanx for sharing jdm .
 

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spt144- do you have to drain transmission fluid when replacing the solenoids? Just had mine changed couple of months ago.
 

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Here is a picture of my valve body with the trans out of the car.



Take a close look on the left side of the valve body [as your facing it]. Then look at the second bolt down.

There is a small sensor there under the wiring in the pic. There is also a two prong clip that the second bolt goes through, which holds the sensor in the vb.

When I had the valve body out, then re-installed it, the two prong clip was left over. I couldn't figure out where it went. So this is the reason for this post. The transmission WON'T shift into any gear with this clip left out as the sensor will pop out, and kill trans fluid pressure.

So remember to put the clip back in place before bolting the cover on the trans.
 

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IMPORTANT: AFTER REBUILDING THE TRANSMISSION, OR RE-INSTALLING A NEW VALVE BODY YOU MUST RECALIBRATE THE SOLENOIDS!

Also, this chart may help with setting older transmission having shift problems.

 

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Remember that I saw it somewhere also that it needed re-calibration after install . Good call M .
 

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So would the maxima transmission or any other one work because I can't find a se r transmission
Yes, it will work. I bought one from an 06 Maxima [that year also has the "upgraded" valve body from Nissan] when I thought I would have to change out the transmission I just rebuilt.

I only took the front cover off to see how the clutches looked [they actually looked brand new, thank God], and the transmissions are identical.

Too bad you don't live closer I would sell it to you for what I paid as I don't need it. Plus I installed a fitting for an external filter, and cooler to make sure it didn't die an early death [I think heat is killing these trans more than anything as the factory cooler sucks].
 

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I would also like to add that even though I rebuilt my valve body with a $300 "zip kit" from Sonnax, and even swapped out a valve body from a Maxima, my transmission problems didn't go away until I spent $1k for a brand new valve body.

The problem as I can see it is that the valve body housing itself gets warped from over heating, and this causes the valves to stick in the bores. With that being said, there is nothing that can be done to fix the problem.

There is a way to protect your current valve body if it hasn't gone bad yet. In other words if your transmission is still shifting good, then the valve body should be good.

So here it the problem. The factory trans cooler is too small, and is attached to the transmission, and not even in a place for good air flow [yes I know its water cooled, and that is also part of the problem].

Also, I took apart the cooling line valve going to the trans cooler, and found a thermostat quite like the one used in the engine. There is no way to tell [that I know of] when this thermostat goes bad. If the thermostat goes bad there will be no more water going to the cooler, and no way of cooling the trans fluid.

The solution is to add an external cooler, and while your at it, an inline transmission filter. You can find the filter at Summit Racing, just do a search on "inline transmission filter".

This should keep your valve body from warping, and keep your fluid clean.
 

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I found something else out about the AW55-51SN 5 speed auto.

According to what I read one of the weak points in the auto 5 speed [aw55-51sn used in all SER Altima's] is that the torque convertor lockup is controlled partly by the brake pedal switch.

When the brake pedal is touched the ecu unlocks the convertor.

HOWEVER When the brake switch goes bad, the convertor stays locked, and can/will kill the torque convertor.

Also, the convertor lock up clutch is on the small size so that don't help matters much.

I would say again [if I haven't already said it] I would recommend doing what I did, and do away with the factory trans cooler, and mod the transmission to use an external filter, and cooler.

Since heat is the number one killer of transmissions an external cooler should be a huge benefit to the 5 speed auto.

First it does a better job cooling since its not attached to the transmission [like the factory cooler].

Second, unlike the factory cooler, you can mount it in front of the radiator so it gets plenty of cool air.

Third, since the valve body is full of four layers of aluminum blocks where the fluid runs each block with tiny valves. If you get any excessive heat it can warp those blocks, and make the valves stick. That happens and no rebuild kit in the world will fix it, and a new valve body cost over $1k, ask me how I know.

Forth, since the lockup clutch in the TC is on the small size, there is bound to be lots of friction as this thing locks/unlocks. So again, a big external cooler is a huge plus.

One more thing on the factory setup. The factory coolant lines go into an aluminum tube. Well, I took that tube apart, and found a tiny thermostat, just like the one in most car engines.

These little things can/and do go bad. Usually when they go bad in an engine your temp gauge will quickly go to HOT.

I don't know if these thermostats in the trans cooler have something in them that puts the ecu into limp mod or what, but if not then when that thermostat fails the transmission having no way to cool itself will eventually fail. [which might be the reason this type of transmission has a bad rep.]
 

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Just so everyone knows, Level 10 does not only charge you $150.00 for this valve body when all is said and done. It is $698.00+$500.00=$1198.00 + shipping of $30.00 (and not counting what you pay in shipping to send yours back to get your $500.00 core refund credited).
 

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I would also like to add that even though I rebuilt my valve body with a $300 "zip kit" from Sonnax, and even swapped out a valve body from a Maxima, my transmission problems didn't go away until I spent $1k for a brand new valve body.

The problem as I can see it is that the valve body housing itself gets warped from over heating, and this causes the valves to stick in the bores. With that being said, there is nothing that can be done to fix the problem.

There is a way to protect your current valve body if it hasn't gone bad yet. In other words if your transmission is still shifting good, then the valve body should be good.

So here it the problem. The factory trans cooler is too small, and is attached to the transmission, and not even in a place for good air flow [yes I know its water cooled, and that is also part of the problem].

Also, I took apart the cooling line valve going to the trans cooler, and found a thermostat quite like the one used in the engine. There is no way to tell [that I know of] when this thermostat goes bad. If the thermostat goes bad there will be no more water going to the cooler, and no way of cooling the trans fluid.

The solution is to add an external cooler, and while your at it, an inline transmission filter. You can find the filter at Summit Racing, just do a search on "inline transmission filter".

This should keep your valve body from warping, and keep your fluid clean.
Hey! I was wondering if you did the relearn after you installed the valve body? I’m asking cuz I changed the valve body on my Altima SER and now it goes on limp mode and also slams when I put it in drive.
 
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