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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
New to the Forums. Ive been reading and researching for a while now. I used to have an 02 spec v. This site helped me through my butterfly issues. So I just purchased a 2006 ser 6mt about 3 weeks ago. Ive had nothin but problems. I will start at the beginning. The car had everything from the stock y pipe back removed and straight pipe put in. I have 2 kids and although it sounded good when driving it just wasnt practical. So i put the stock mufflers back in there hangers and all was good. I started to check the engine codes. I was getting p0158 and p0057. So i changed out bank 2 sensor 2 for a new one. Now i was having a problem where when i go WOT the car starts to pop and misfire quite badly at around 5000rpm and such bad hesitation that it wouldnt accelerate any more and the engine light starts flashing. So i started goin over the car the best i could. The car has a k&n short ram and the vais removed. So i checked front coils and plugs there good. So i removed the intake manifold to find that the left most nut with stud area had broken completely off(thanks to the previous owner. I asked if there was any issues i should no about). Anyways i bought a new intake from a junkyard off a 04 quest. Now while the intake manifold was off i switched the coils and plugs front to back just incase. Put it all back together. And still same popping hesitation sound and terrible misfire. Ive cleaned the MAF. Ive cleaned the injectors and gotten better fuel milage. Now the misfire is getting worse and im pretty lost with this one. I took it to a local mechanic and tire shop where my brother works and Put it on a very expensive scan tool. Maf is working 100% and the o2 sensors are working correctly except that one i put in is alittle wild on the charts when monitored. Now through all the bs the car started working Really really good. Ive owned a 02 maxima 3.5 an i new what to expect performance wise. Now i reset the battery to get the sunroof to work and presto its back to poor acceleration misfire at 4000rpm and popping like the intakes come off. I put it back on the hoist for further inspection of the cats. Ive been reading alot on these forums and i no there notorious. Now my rear cat has cracks at the bottom of it and the previous owner did a piss poor job of welding it. So now could this leaky or pluged cat b causing all my troubling misfires. Please help i dunno what else to do other than buy the RL hI flow cats an y pipe. I just dont wanna spend a $1000 for it not to fix. Codes for misfire is p0300 and p2000. Im not having hard start so i eliminated the crank sensor.
 

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Can you just bypass the cats?

I don't have emission testing where I live, and run headers with the matching y-pipe, and straight 3" pipe to the stock mufflers, and no issues at 5k.

I do get a code for the two 02 sensors that are disconnected [factory wires too short to connect to the sensors with my y-pipe]. But, no problems with backfiring.

Although, if the problem had resolved itself until you reset the ecu, then I can't see it being the cats.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the info. I find it hard to believe its the cats aswell where it did resolve itself. I just dont no what to check next the only thing i see failing is the cats. But im not throwing the p0420. I dont no what else to check.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
Went for a hot lap in the hiway. Forced the car through the sputter an hesitation an car works great again. So its definately plugged or was plugged cats.
Prognosis: some times u gotta feed some speed to ur ride. Hahaha im happy for now
 

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Temp fix. I am betting it is the cats. Problem will come back. Best way to rule out the cats.........is to remove them and visually inspect the insides with a flashlight. If its rally bad, lol, you wont need a flashlight because chunks of the catalyst will fall out. Keep in mind, just because you checked something and it checks out doesnt mean it is fine. Sometimes its the circuit rather than the component. In other words, it could be a wire that is broken. Coils can b picky. Expensive as heck to switch all out at once, so youll have to test each one separately...injectors, I remove them so i can test their flow individually using a 9v battery. Works perfectly for detecting a flow issue with them. With injectors, be sure to check their wiring for the above mentioned possible issues. You could also have a dirty/plugged fuel pump, which is really easy to switch out, and if this car has some miles, its a no brainer.....switch it out anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
U are really full of great advise. I did a fuel pressure check an im at 52psi. Thats what a local nissan tech told me i should b close to. I also supected the sending unit and filter aswell as possible injector issue. I did run sone injector cleaner and my mpg became much better but it didnt fix the hesitation. I was still considering pulling the injectors to check they were spraying rite. I only paid $3000 for the car so i was expecting some issues. A few more $$ and im either ordering the raceline cats and y pipe or the obx header and cat back. I think i could live with the engine lite on. BUT putting the headers on vs just changing the cats. I dunno tough call for me. Again. Much appreciation for the info. And alittle more research on my part i will have an exhaust decision. Im at 98% positive its the exhaust.
 
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