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Discussion Starter #1
Not allot more to add. First time I was at the drive-thru window waiting for my food and the engine cut off on me, no code. Restarted it fine. However I've noticed that at idle the car increasingly requires extra RPMs or it stumbles over and over and at times will stall out. I've noticed the weather has been wet in both cases, but I think that's probably not it.

Cam sensor went out a year or 2 ago and it acted different, for one it gave me a code. Secondly, you could crank the car for days but it would never start, yet would die out at the stop sign in my neighborhood if you kmanaged to get it started somehow. So I don't think it's a CPS. Never any codes thrown and the car always starts after it fails.
 

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09 Altima 3.5SE 6MT Sedan
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Have you done the basics like clean the MAF etc?
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
No, I'm only half-way decent at this stuff when I've had the issue before. This one's new for me. So I'll take whatever tips and pointers I can get.
 

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09 Altima 3.5SE 6MT Sedan
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and no codes thrown?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So yesterday I took the car for a food pickup for dinner. Didn't rain that day. I drove it modestly expecting this stumbling engine bit at the traffic lights. Nothing really happened. On my way back from my pick-up I had to get out in the road again and match-up with the average road speed so I hit the gas. Things were fine to about the second light where I was still having to navigate my way over using speed to find a place in the lane I wanted to be in. Then it did it. Nothing like when it rains but I kept my eye on the RPM gauge and could see a small tick down on the needle when the engine would stumble a tiny bit. All I can think is a sensor might be on the way out. (Crank Position Sensor? The other Cam Position Sensor?)
I checked allot of the vacuum lines the other day thinking maybe something got old and collapsed, but unlike some American brands, this car didn't have the really tiny diameter hoses that are more prone to collapsing under a vacuum from the engine operation. I gently squeezed all the ones around the MAF and they all felt pretty firm.
So as far as I can tell it's happening after harder acceleration and the engine is warm and always at idle/ stopped postion. Rain seems to amplify the effects a bit. Strange because rain usually makes my car work better, possibly because of the air density? Not sure.

Anyway that's all I've got. I've been tempted to take this in many times, but I'd hate to bring it some place where after not finding the problem they just manufacture an issue and tell me something needs to be replaced. She's within sight of 200K of course something needs to be replaced. I'm sure I could sink 7K into her easily trying to bring her back, but at this point in the life of the car I don't think it would be wise. I just need to get from A to B reliably so this stumbling and sometimes stalling engine is messing up my plans.
 

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09 Altima 3.5SE 6MT Sedan
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At this point I'd take a chance on replacing the other cam sensor....barring any more enlightening info.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
So since your last post Doug, I really haven't driven it very much; maybe once before today. I had an onsite job today so I drove it yesterday to gauge my car's usability. So first to catch-up where I am in this with parts. Then I'll document today. I thought about your recommendation to replace the other cam position sensor and immediately ordered a three pack ( Bank 1 CPS, Bank 2 CPS & Crank sensor)all Nissan brand. Why? Because your suggestion jogged my memory about a detail I had left out. So when my bank 2 sensor went out and threw the code for it I had originally ordered the Hitachi part (Nissan's brand for this) .They sent me something that wasn't oriented correctly for the bolt and so I got refunded for the part and I bought a 3rd party one from Advanced Auto. Things have been fine til I posted about this issue. So I thought to myself maybe I was stupid and bought a crap sensor that tells the engine everything's fine -"don't report a problem to the ECM", but is in reality a crap sensor that will continually fail on me increasingly more. To alleviate this suspicion I will be changing out both Cam sensors. They are due to arrive this Sat.

And now for today... I drove the car to Home Depot yesterday for some hardware, zero problems. As I said before I wanted to test the waters to see if my car could reliably get me to my work site today. I warmed the car up as I usually did, waited at the light outside of my subdivision to turn and made my turn and accelerate into the highway picking up some speed no problem. Mid-turn the car just dies. The power steering goes out so the wheel is stiff. All the lights come on my dash. My car is rolling at about 30mph so I get the car to the furthest lane over. It's the best I can do since I don't think I can roll far enough to reach a grass intersection. So I end my roll and hit the brakes and get the flashers on. I stand out behind my car and direct people around me while I'm frantically calling for back-up (police, AAA). While I was still in my car "parking" I try to shift the car in Park but it won't let me. I manage Neutral though. I try to start the car in neutral but it doesn't turn-over. No codes on the dash. I leave it in Neutral with the emergency brake on and focus on getting my car towed. A lady stops her car in back of mine and puts her flashers on too. So I focus on calling. After I've arranged for everyone to show up I got back over to the car and try again to shift it into park. Still can't do that. I try to crank the car and it cranks right up (WTF??) I wave at the lady providing back-up through my window and haul ass back home. So ... what the hell was that? I've never not been able to shift the car into park before. Btw, once the car cranked, it shifted no problem. So first I couldn't even get the starter to try and crank the engine, then after some minutes it both cranks and runs again...really confused... Still a cam sensor?
 

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09 Altima 3.5SE 6MT Sedan
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I'm wondering if you also have a battery/ground issue. Have you checked the piece of the negative battery cable that goes from the chassis to the transmission...my '03's cable rotted out a long long time ago...so if you're still going on the factory cable...might be worthwhile to change that out too...not terrible...$40 or so, even at the dealer IIRC. A bad ground would cause the sensors to read funny which could stall the engine, could also jam the transmission solenoids etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Ok, got my sensors in yesterday. Took a look at my negative battery cable as well and saw some green on both ends, so that was good enough for me. Bought another from Nissan, almost $50 bucks just cuz of a silly middle crimped section that bolts also on the car. Whatever, if it fixes things It'd be worth it and it'd probably never have to be done again (I thought to myself). So since I had to take out and clean-up so much in the battery area I took the opportunity to change all the sensors. I even did the crank sensor. Didn't even mean to find that one, but I did by accident and decided since I have it, why not. One thing that I found odd though is that the Crank sensor doesn't have a gasket around it. So unlike the Cam position sensors 1 & 2 there was not little "pop" feeling of the sensor being seated correctly. In fact there was space around the crank sensor. I inspected the old one, but it looked just like the one I was changing. So I hesitantly put the sensor in and bolted it down. So at the end of this very long day for me I decided to crank up the car and let her warm up. After a few minutes I felt a surge-like rough idle. The engine felt a bit strained in a 3 pulse incident and then threw a P1122 code which I looked online about and the fixes for the problem were kinda silly.

One guy put a bolt and washer under the accelerator pedal sensor (G35). Another guy replaced a piece of plastic around the accelerator pedal. Allot of the time it was saying to rev the engine and see if the code could be cleared. I erased the code and revved the engine a bit and that's when I noticed 2 things: 1) the RPM needle didn't "float" down like it used to on the tach instead it would be a bit choppy as it decreased then waited a half second then go down some more and possibly hesitate a bit before going all the way down. Which made me feel like what's been going on isn't over yet. And 2) the seal on the back of my ATX is getting more serious because before I could rev the car more and play with the idle I noticed a bunch of smoke coming up which immediately made me feel like I screwed something up and I shut the car off just to find that it was drips of transmission fluid that got pushed past the seal on the transmission and falls onto my exhaust system. THAT at least I know why it's happening, but this idle stuff is making me feel like a shop may be the only way. I did find some 1/2" rubber tubing for the evap system that was in pretty poor shape that I should replace. Beyond that I've got nothing. I don't think the code I got was any indication of what has been going on. But I'll be back with a report tomorrow. I'll need to check the trans fluid before testing her any more.
 

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09 Altima 3.5SE 6MT Sedan
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Ok, did you perform the Idle Air relearn procedure? If not, do that before getting too weirded out.

Have a lot at this TSB NTB-05-053 too
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Sorry for the late response, car stuff isn't my forte, my attention to detail is probably the only thing that saves me doing this kind of thing. It also is the thing that keeps me from acting faster in many of my problems. So no, didn't know the idle re-learn was a thing when you are just disconnecting the battery. One site said "when the TB is replaced" this has to happen, and another said "when the battery is disconnected" so I guess it's the latter one. That said, I'm just too much of a wimp to hold my accelerator on the floor for 20 seconds straight. I can just picture trans fluid gushing out all over my exhaust piping.

I somehow found the re-learn procedure in the Nissan manual (digital copy) and compared it with the re-learn procedure on www.itstillruns.com. The steps aren't exactly the same and wondered if it would make a difference. I also learned that there is a "Accelerator Released Position Learning" procedure as well as a "Throttle Valve closed Position Learning" procedure. They're prerequisites to the idle learning one. I did do those because they both involved not cranking the engine.

Frankly I'm just disgusted with the leaking issue/burning smell and I'm going to get this handled first. The quotes I'm getting for both CV oil seals is really crazy different. The high end is $832 and the low end is $262. It's labor only, I always do my own parts research and provide them along with fluid so the shop isn't pulling some crazy numbers out for parts and fluid. It also guarantees good quality parts are installed instead of whatever shop they have a contract with to use. And lastly they don't stop working on my car unless it's a part they need that I did not foresee being needed. Really hate it when they get into my car and then tell me the part isn't available and they're on order to show-up some day later than the current one. So I'm going to do things the lazy way and get this work done which means the trans fluid will get changed also (something I needed to do) as well as the idle re-learn procedure, because I don't know a shop that works on vehicles without disconnecting the battery ;)

So Doug, I usually bounce between Mobile1 and Castrol synthetic for my ATX fluid. Would you care to weigh-in on a favorite?
 

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09 Altima 3.5SE 6MT Sedan
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Both are quality....if I was going to grab one, it would probably be the Castrol unless noticeably more $....but nothing against the Mobil1.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
So I got my car back from the shop. That one hurt in the wallet allot since they were changing the seal between the engine and the transaxle/transmission. Seemed to not leak when I got it back. I revved it a bunch at the shop and looked under the car. Then I got occupied replacing the EVAP lines that lead to the throttle body, but the others too. Didn't drive the car much during this period of research and purchasing. Not until the day I went to get some groceries with it as well as the cut-to-length hose to replace the rest of the lines coming out of the EVAP port. I was feeling a bit edgy driving the car since it last quit on me. I didn't actually bring the car to the shop for that problem, only to seal the oil leak that kept dripping on my header exhaust run. On my way home I felt like it might of stumbled to a lesser extent than before.

When I'm at stop lights now I watch my tach like a hawk; looking for any drops in RPMs. Something I guess still feels "off" to me. Once I managed to replace the EVAP lines I cranked the car to let the lines heat up and hopefully mold a bit onto all the connectors since it's not factory parts with pre-bends. I let the car warm completely up and even test drove in the neighborhood (still don't trust her). I could be wrong but then it felt like my car had less power. Wasn't sure about it, so I took it back home.

Before I had cranked it today I noticed a drop of oil hanging from the same area on my exhaust pipe. I wiped it up real good. Did my test drive and looked under the car that when I parked at home I saw drops coming down -wth?.. Then I thought about what I had seen yesterday. When I had the airbox out and associated tubing, I had noticed oil pooling in the groove in-between the "V" shape of the engine looking right down the middle of it. I sopped up what I could reach with shop towels. I didn't know what to think, if that was there before or if this was a new development.

So here are my ideas, maybe something sounds better than other things. They are all guesses. Perhaps, the shop did their job right and once they sealed one part of the engine tighter then another part gave way. Or they didn't and this is leaking oil affecting the compression which would validate my "lack of power vibe". The valve covers were just done recently but worth considering also I guess.

And lastly a few years ago I had tons of leaks on my car. I thought it was "the end" for her as I even sucked it up and took the car in. They told me that most of the major seals were leaking oil and I didn't really think I could afford replacing all of them or even one so I just took the car away. Around that time I got the inclination to replace my PCV which on this car is like 30-40 bucks! Anyway, after I replaced it I noticed that most of my leaks kinda disappeared haha. That was no more than 4 years ago. Any chance I would need to replace the PCV again?
 

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So I got my car back from the shop. That one hurt in the wallet allot since they were changing the seal between the engine and the transaxle/transmission. Seemed to not leak when I got it back. I revved it a bunch at the shop and looked under the car. Then I got occupied replacing the EVAP lines that lead to the throttle body, but the others too. Didn't drive the car much during this period of research and purchasing. Not until the day I went to get some groceries with it as well as the cut-to-length hose to replace the rest of the lines coming out of the EVAP port. I was feeling a bit edgy driving the car since it last quit on me. I didn't actually bring the car to the shop for that problem, only to seal the oil leak that kept dripping on my header exhaust run. On my way home I felt like it might of stumbled to a lesser extent than before.

When I'm at stop lights now I watch my tach like a hawk; looking for any drops in RPMs. Something I guess still feels "off" to me. Once I managed to replace the EVAP lines I cranked the car to let the lines heat up and hopefully mold a bit onto all the connectors since it's not factory parts with pre-bends. I let the car warm completely up and even test drove in the neighborhood (still don't trust her). I could be wrong but then it felt like my car had less power. Wasn't sure about it, so I took it back home.

Before I had cranked it today I noticed a drop of oil hanging from the same area on my exhaust pipe. I wiped it up real good. Did my test drive and looked under the car that when I psrked at home I saw drops coming down -wth?.. Then I thought about what I had seen yesterday. When I had the airbox out and associated tubing, I had noticed oil pooling in the groove in-between the "V" shape of the engine looking right down the middle of it. I sopped up what I could reach with shop towels. I didn't know what to think, if that was there before or if this was a new development.

So hear are my ideas, maybe something sounds better than other things. They are all guesses. Perhaps, the shop did their job right and once they sealed one part of the engine tighter then another part gave way. Or they didn't and this is leaking oil affecting the compression which would validate my "lack of power vibe". The valve covers were just done recently but worth considering also I guess.

And lastly a few years ago I had tons of leaks on my car. I thought it was "the end" for her as I even sucked it up and took the car in. They told me that most of the major seals were leaking oil and I didn't really think I could afford replacing all of them or even one so I jst took the car away. Around that time I got the inclination to replace my PCV which on this car is like 30-40 bucks! Anyway, after I replaced it I noticed that most of my leaks kinda disappeared haha. That was no more than 4 years ago. Any chance I would need to replace the PCV again?
Time to go toyota. Ur wasting money on this Nissan. u can get an older Avalon, say 2000, and it will be much more reliable.
 

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I haven't changed a PCV valve in 40 years and on a long stream of cars. Unless physically damaged they usually can be soaked in solvent like acetone and then blown out to be as good as new again. I prefer the OEM valve anyway, too many aftermarket ones weed out some of the applications to narrow down the orifice hole inside to then not flow correct even though parts catalog says it is the right part. You don't have that trouble by reusing the same valve.
 

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i have 205 altima se 2.5 , it started having problems starting. would have to grind on starter a long time before it would start. after started it ran fine. then it got to it would not start. changed fuel pump that has regulator on it. no start. changed cam and crank sensors, nothing. it would turn over fine but no start. i took plugs out and cleaned them with carb cleaner it started. but, after going for drive, once turned off, the problem was back. changed all injectors , nothing. you take plug out, clean them it starts and run great. these were new plugs. i'm pulling my hair out, help..
 

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Discussion Starter #19
i have 205 altima se 2.5 , it started having problems starting. would have to grind on starter a long time before it would start. after started it ran fine. then it got to it would not start. changed fuel pump that has regulator on it. no start. changed cam and crank sensors, nothing. it would turn over fine but no start. i took plugs out and cleaned them with carb cleaner it started. but, after going for drive, once turned off, the problem was back. changed all injectors , nothing. you take plug out, clean them it starts and run great. these were new plugs. i'm pulling my hair out, help..
Sorry about your problem Gerald, you might look into the ignition area of your vehicle's issue if that is where you're finding success.
But to state it kindly, you need to start a new thread as you're hijacking mine.
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Ok, so hopefully for at least awhile the car is fixed. Using the shop I did it literally stayed there for a solid week before I got it back. Back main seal leak and the one btween the trans and the engine were leaking. Just a few drops here and there, but I was just sick and tired of smelling burnt oil. I also had the transaxle seals replaced, but they weren't yet leaking. I had mentioned the idle issue to the rep there and when he called me to tell me the car was ready I asked him about the idle problem and if he had encountered anything with it, he told me "no". That was Fourth of July weekend and I was pretty tired of being without a car. So they pull the car around to me and leave it there idling for me. And the first thing I did was rev it a bit to test the idle range. In the past I had been doing the same thing to run over to the front of the car and look under for any oil drips. But this time I wanted to know if it was safe to drive home. So I'm revving it and sure enough as the RPMs are coming down I feel the car vibrating and it quickly develops into more of a motorcycle feel and sound to just idle in place.
The tech comes out and is wondering why I'm revving the engine and tells me not to do it and how it's bad for the engine. But I'm not hearing it, because I'll be damned if he's going to try and talk me into taking this car home in such condition and risk it quitting on me in traffic again. I show him what I'm talking about and even put him in the driver's seat and have him throw it in reverse for the extra bucking bronco ride. Then I tell him this car's not going anywhere today. So he asks about codes and I hadn't gotten any, but invited him to try.
Finally some engine codes: 2 knock sensor codes and one that indicated cylinder 4 misfire. I knew when I heard that. that 2 of the problems associated with that code I could fix, but the one situation where it might be due to a worn/faulty injector I could not. So I left it and he told me they would get it diagnosed on Monday. I was pissed, cuz that was the second time I had left the car with them and they just fix what they said they would and totally ignored the crap way it was driving. He was trying to get me to take it since a coil pack and a sparkplug aren't difficult problems to fix, especially on the front array. But I wasn't having it. I went home, with no car.

Monday comes around and I got right on the guy right when they opened. He calls me back and tells me it's a coil pack. So I tell him I'll pay for the diagnostic and to just pull it around front and I'll fix it myself. So I go through all the parts places and get me another Iridium sparkplug and a OEM Hitachi coil pack and show-up over there with my tools. Did the switch, cleared the codes and test drove it. That seemed to get it. I'm still a bit edgy around the car, but it seems solid from my test drives. That was pretty exhausting. To think my car just up and quitting on me came from a single cylinder misfire.
 
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