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2005 nissan altima Stalling/ RPM issue

1967 Views 7 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  rogoman
My 2005 Nissan Altima, 2.5L, manual transmission Altima is having issues with throttle feel and rpm's.
I was on level ground and went into first gear to drive out of a stop sign when it wouldn't get any power to go into first gear and when I let off the clutch it stalled like 5 times I went into reverse and it was close to stalling but was able to move and I put it in neutral and looked at the rpm while it was idling and it went from ~1k to 100rpm and shaking the engine and nearly stalling and jumping back within a second of it hitting that low of an rpm and then it would just repeat the steps. I turned it off and on without running the engine and then started it and let it sit for a bit and I noticed that it wasn't swapping going up and down on the rpm meter like before so I put my foot on the gas and just launched it just in case it was gonna stall on the road again after that while driving I would coast going ~25-30mph and it would suddenly just feel like it was losing power and slow down until I pushed the gas pedal and even when holding it down a bit to keep rpm I could feel it drop as if I let go.
Any suggestions on what could be causing this aka fuel pump MAF? the air filter is new and fine so are coils and plugs along with new oil.
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A common problem with random engine shutdowns, difficult startups, rough running is a marginal camshaft position sensor or a marginal crankshaft position sensor. Most of the time when this happens, the "check engine light" never comes on; subsequently when performing an ECU code readout, there was no fault code set. There's been many members here on the forum that have had problems similar to yours and the fix was replacing those two sensors.

The best and cheapest fix for this situation is to replace both sensors at the same time; the reason for doing this is there is no way to determine which sensor is at fault with this type of condition. You can take your vehicle to a dealer/repair shop and they'll tell you there is nothing wrong after they go through with diagnostic tests because at that time the vehicle was running OK. You could end up spending $200 or much more depending on how much time/parts are used.

When replacing sensors, always use Nissan OEM parts from a Nissan dealer; aftermarket electronic items generally are not reliable, don't last long, and many times are DOA. The sensors are not very expensive; around $120. Inspect the harness connectors on all the sensors for any oxidation or loose connections. Insure that any water resistant connector is in good condition; if the seals have been compromised, then any water intrusion can cause intermittent problems.
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Lower level code readers won't catch it but higher level will reach the codes set when the problem happened, they are not live yet to hard set until a certain count happens to set them as codes. The difference in a soft or hard code, all the computers do it. Soft codes are ones the computer logs but has not made its' mind up to set them as hard faults yet, why the count has to happen. each fault counts different amounts based on how the software is written.

All codes begin as soft as a fault may happen and never happen again, you do not want that posting a light as the warranty people will go nuts chasing them down only to be chasing ghosts since they may never happen a again. It saves millions in warranty costs.
Lower level code readers won't catch it but higher level will reach the codes set when the problem happened, they are not live yet to hard set until a certain count happens to set them as codes. The difference in a soft or hard code, all the computers do it. Soft codes are ones the computer logs but has not made its' mind up to set them as hard faults yet, why the count has to happen. each fault counts different amounts based on how the software is written.

All codes begin as soft as a fault may happen and never happen again, you do not want that posting a light as the warranty people will go nuts chasing them down only to be chasing ghosts since they may never happen a again. It saves millions in warranty costs.
I have a $600 code reader tablet that can do pretty much everything I am betting that its able to read it. I am going to give it a shot since It has no check engine light but I haven't driven it in 2 days since I have been pre occupied I'll update once I see if it reads anything.
After doing a quick 4 laps same speed and longer distance while having my code reader in and recording the data I see nothing out of the ordinary. I do have a p0171 but it's been pending for a while now.
Some of the problem you're encountering may be related to the P0171 DTC.
1. A possible bad MAF.
2. There may be a major intake system vacuum leak. To check the intake system for a vacuum leak, attach a vacuum gauge to a full vacuum source. With the engine fully warmed up, the reading at idle should be 18 - 20 InHg. At 3,000 RPM, it should be 21 InHg. If readings are under 18 InHg, check the intake manifold nuts to make sure they are tight. The gasket may have failed; spray a water mist at the gasket to see if the gauge reading changes. Also check the intake plenum bellows at the throttle valve and at the MAF for cracks or loose clamps.
Someone must make the sensors for Nissan (Hitachi ???) so I don't quite agree with the total ban on aftermarket purchases. I will agree that off-brand & unknown manufacturers should be avoided. But a total ban??
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Someone must make the sensors for Nissan (Hitachi ???) so I don't quite agree with the total ban on aftermarket purchases. I will agree that off-brand & unknown manufacturers should be avoided. But a total ban??
Hitachi, Denso, and NTK are the OEM suppliers for Nissan electronic sensors. If you purchase any one of those brands, you're getting OEM.
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