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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I don't remember being able to use the OBD/DLC connector to diagnose my car, I gave up years ago. This time I'm back and I'm adamant to fix this but I really need some help because I'm lost. I say lost because every test I did seems to indicate that everything is normal.

COMPLAINT
OBD devices, wired and bluetooth, report no communication with ECU.

FACTS
  • I can use the OBD port to reprogram keys, so the connection to BCM is fine.
  • My cheap OBD devices worked on other cars.
  • All fuses are good, check them last night but let me know if you me to check something again.
  • I vaguely remember years ago that a shop got me 2 transmission codes. Another shop had a very hard time with connecting to perform an idle air relearn procedure but he was able to manipulate the RPM, but couldn't make the result "stick".

TESTS
  • Tested resistance between pins 6 and 14 on the DLC. With key off it was 62 ohms and with key on it was millions, basically almost open circuit. I understand this is a normal result.
  • Voltage to pins 6 and 14 on the DLC was 2.2V and 2.6V.
  • Voltage to pin 16 was the battery voltage.

MODIFICATIONS TO THE CAR
  • Years ago I removed the cassette player by cutting the wires to it's connector.
  • I have a Bluetooth device, for my phone to connect to, which take a ground from the cigarette lighter's wires, and power from the J/B fuses with a tap-a-fuse.
  • I have a small bulb taking a ground from the cigarette lighter's wires and power from a nearby wire with constant battery voltage.
  • I have two dashcams connected together to two tap-a-fuse, one fuse for constant battery voltage and another for ACC voltage. My complaint was happening before this so I think it's irrelevant.
  • I have a connector that I used to use for two extra radiator fans. I asked the electrician to have those fans turn on with the OEM fan. So he hid the relay and wiring somewhere underneath the IPDM/ER box. The fans have been removed and disconnected but the relay and wiring is still in there.

QUESTIONS
  • In the FSM GI-53 I noticed that the ECM has nothing to do with the CAN circuit, instead it has it's own wire going to pin 7on the DLC along with all the other important bits like the TCM, ABS,Air Bag Sensor. Is it possible that these units do not communicate on the CAN lines (impossible right?)? Or does does the ECM connects somehow to E17 on the IPDM/ER pins 39 and 40? According to the FSM LAN-29 they do connect to pins 39 and 40 via the E22 connector, I just don't understand that diagram because they didn't include the DLC. How do I diagnose all this? A continuity test from pins 6 and 14 on the DLC to pins 39 and 40 in E17? Or all the way to pins 98 and 97 on the ECM connector? Is that enough?
  • Where does E17 go? I couldn't figure this one out exactly.
  • In the FSM PG pages 36 and 40, you see M1 goes to E30 and E30 goes to M1. Then what? Where are those exactly? Can I see pictures of them? ( I ask this question because of the workflow in LAN-70).
  • If I were to replace the ECM, what reprogramming is necessary to be performed using the CONSULT-III? Just the VIN registration or more?


I hope I gave enough information to help you guys help me with this so I can solve this huge headache that has been lingering around for a decade.
 

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It seems that you have done so much in diagnosis.

Have you tried visually inspecting the module?
Inspect it for any corrosion or water damage.
I’m not sure where it is located but I’m sure you will find the location using the FSM documents.
Also if doable, use the continuity function of your multimeter, and verify that each pin of the OBD port is actually connected to its respective wires. You might need to remove the dash panels to access the wiring harness.
And ultimately, verify the continuity of each pin to the board of the module.

I’m suspecting there is no connection from the module to the OBD port.


You will need be to fix this next time you’re going to have the car tested for emissions. So is cheaper to repair it in advance.


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Also you mentioned that connection to BCM is okay. Since your mechanic was able to get two transmission codes, indicating connection to transmission is okay too.
Though that RPM adjustment (that the shop said didn’t stick) I suspect was never done!

You need to check only the connection from your OBD to your ECM. Like I said above, visually inspect ECM module for any physical damage, especially water damage where connections are attached to the board.
Post some photos of the ECM board.

Ps.
If you have links to the FSM, can you post the links here.
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
It seems that you have done so much in diagnosis.

Have you tried visually inspecting the module?
Inspect it for any corrosion or water damage.
I’m not sure where it is located but I’m sure you will find the location using the FSM documents.
Also if doable, use the continuity function of your multimeter, and verify that each pin of the OBD port is actually connected to its respective wires. You might need to remove the dash panels to access the wiring harness.
And ultimately, verify the continuity of each pin to the board of the module.

I’m suspecting there is no connection from the module to the OBD port.


You will need be to fix this next time you’re going to have the car tested for emissions. So is cheaper to repair it in advance.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thank you

I have taken out the ECM years ago while attempting to diagnose this very issue, the contacts are clean and shiny, not a spec of dirt on them. The module itself is exposed to dirt and heat but looked okay. It's right next to the battery.

I should check continuity between DLC pins 6 and 14 and ECM pins 98 and 97. I bet I'll find continuity there. I have seen posts/videos this week while searching that broken parts (ABS, sensors, etc) could mess up the CAN network (but that would kill the BCM connection too?) so some people would disconnect each plug and see what happens. I'm just thinking out loud wondering if this sort of thing happens on the Altima/Nissan.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Also you mentioned that connection to BCM is okay. Since your mechanic was able to get two transmission codes, indicating connection to transmission is okay too.
Though that RPM adjustment (that the ship said didn’t stick) I suspect was never done!
Do you need to check only the connection from your OBD to your ECM. Like o said above, visually inspect ECM module for any physical damage, especially water damage where connections are.
Post some photos of you were snake to locate it and inspect it.

Ps.
If you have links to the FSM, can you post the links here.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Give me some time to get back to my PC this week I'll properly upload the FSM for you somewhere.

When the guy was doing the idle relearn procedure that didn't stick, I was sitting right beside him while he was playing with RPM. He had a number of Pro OBD devices, none could connect except that one. Symptoms like this leads me to belive this could be a fault in the ECM itself, that's why asked the ECM programming question.
 

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Give me some time to get back to my PC this week I'll properly upload the FSM for you somewhere.

When the guy was doing the idle relearn procedure that didn't stick, I was sitting right beside him while he was playing with RPM. He had a number of Pro OBD devices, none could connect except that one. Symptoms like this leads me to belive this could be a fault in the ECM itself, that's why asked the ECM programming question.
Two notes:

1- Have you had the car smog checked? They need to communicate with the same module, correct?

2-If ECM was faulty and needs reprogramming, You would have noticed the symptoms long ago, wouldn’t you? I mean is it possible for a faulty engine module to communicate with for example transmission issue these years?


Do you have a scanner equipped to scan other modules?
For example can you scan CVT transmission module? I think you said you were, but just confirming.



I have a similar but smaller and very minor issue with my sound and navigation module in my 2019 Rogue. I tried several times to connect to the module, but i wasn’t able AMF gave up. All other modules can be reached and scanned properly.

I use a WiFi wireless Vpeak OBD scanner and OBDFusion App with enhanced diagnostic for 2019 Nissan and it gives me access to all modules to read and clear DTCs.

So I think there is some connections/wiring issue with the suspect module.


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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Two notes:

1- Have you had the car smog checked? They need to communicate with the same module, correct?

2-If ECM was faulty and needs reprogramming, You would have noticed the symptoms long ago, wouldn’t you? I mean is it possible for a faulty engine module to communicate with for example transmission issue these years?


Do you have a scanner equipped to scan other modules?
For example can you scan CVT transmission module? I think you said you were, but just confirming.



I have a similar but smaller and very minor issue with my sound and navigation module in my 2019 Rogue. I tried several times to connect to the module, but i wasn’t able AMF gave up. All other modules can be reached and scanned properly.

I use a WiFi wireless Vpeak OBD scanner and OBDFusion App with enhanced diagnostic for 2019 Nissan and it gives me access to all modules to read and clear DTCs.

So I think there is some connections/wiring issue with the suspect module.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

1. We don't have smog checking, they don't use the OBD for the inspection.

2. As to the ECM, I have 3 ECMs I bought from Ebay. I live in a small town, we have one shop who has a CONSULT-III but they don't know how to use it last time I sat down with them. If my ECM (which I don't prefer to replace), needs to be replaced. I myself have to know the procedure to let them know. All I found in the FSM is programming the VIN and that's it. I just wanted to know if there's more to that.

3. My scanners are very cheap, I don't have any options to choose modules. I'll try OBD Fusion. I didn't scan my CVT, but I remember years ago someone got me transmission codes.


UPDATE:

I just tried OBD Fusion with the Nissan addon for my year (2009). I could connect to ABS and Airbag, but can't connect to anything else.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Two notes:

1- Have you had the car smog checked? They need to communicate with the same module, correct?

2-If ECM was faulty and needs reprogramming, You would have noticed the symptoms long ago, wouldn’t you? I mean is it possible for a faulty engine module to communicate with for example transmission issue these years?


Do you have a scanner equipped to scan other modules?
For example can you scan CVT transmission module? I think you said you were, but just confirming.



I have a similar but smaller and very minor issue with my sound and navigation module in my 2019 Rogue. I tried several times to connect to the module, but i wasn’t able AMF gave up. All other modules can be reached and scanned properly.

I use a WiFi wireless Vpeak OBD scanner and OBDFusion App with enhanced diagnostic for 2019 Nissan and it gives me access to all modules to read and clear DTCs.

So I think there is some connections/wiring issue with the suspect module.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Here's the 2007-2012 FSM

 

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Do you have voltage on pin 8 of the OBD when the ignition is on?

Your CAN bus to the ECM has to be working or you'd have issues with the car not starting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Do you have voltage on pin 8 of the OBD when the ignition is on?

Your CAN bus to the ECM has to be working or you'd have issues with the car not starting.

I have a big update. I wanted to answer your question about pin 8, so I thought I would go down there and quickly check it out for you, so I checked a bunch of things. Yes I have power to pin 8, grounds are OK, I have continuity between DLC/IPDM/ECM on both CAN L and CAN H lines (pink and blue wires).

Resistance between pins 6/14 on the DLC is 60 ohms with the key off, with the key on I have huge resistance. There's no continuity to ground from these two pins.

Pins 97/98 on the ECM itself read 124 ohms, pins 39/40 in the IPDM itself read 122 ohms. Everything is perfect yet I still can't connect!

So I decided to disconnect the ABS actuator/module connector, and wadyaknow I can connect with my car for the first time since I owned it in 2010!


So here are my questions:

1. The best app I used is OBD FUSION. It gives me the option to connect to a generic OBD option, or I can choose the module I want. I can connect to each module separately, but I can't connect to all at once like the generic OBD option provides. Is this normal behavior?
(for those interested only two apps worked, those two apps gave me the option of choosing a module to connect to, and/or have the option to choose the OBD protocol. And those two apps are: OBD FUSION and "Car Scanner". The following apps couldn't connect: Torque Light, OBD Mary, OBD Arny, Piston, Carly, inCarDoc Free. I was also surprised to find out that my wired OBD scanner couldn't connect).

2. I reconnected the ABS module and I still can connect thankfully. Why did this happen in the first place? Is it a malfunction from the ABS module or could it be caused by an ABS sensor (I never changed those, I don't complain about the speed reading nor about the ABS performance)? If this issues returns after a while, what is culprit exactly and what are my options?
 

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So I decided to disconnect the ABS actuator/module connector, and wadyaknow I can connect with my car since I owned it in 2010!


I can't connect to all at once like the generic OBD option provides. Is this normal behavior?

2. I reconnected the ABS module and I still can connect thankfully. Why did this happen in the first place?
Congrats on your successful investigative work!

Glad to read that you’ve solved it!

To answer Your questions:

1- that is normal. OBD Fusion can only connect to one module at a time. I have set it to “Prompt” so every time i can choose the one.

2- It might have been a loose contact or a short IMO?! Now that you’ve solved it, just enjoy the results!

I might try doing the same. Cannot talk to Sonar on my 19 Rogue.

Thanks for the update!


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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Congrats on your successful investigative work!

Glad to read that you’ve solved it!

To answer Your questions:

1- that is normal. OBD Fusion can only connect to one module at a time. I have set it to “Prompt” so every time i can choose the one.

2- It might have been a loose contact or a short IMO?! Now that you’ve solved it, just enjoy the results!

I might try doing the same. Cannot talk to Sonar on my 19 Rogue.

Thanks for the update!


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Could you let me know where you found that "prompt" setting in OBD fusion, I couldn't find it.

I also have other news. The steering lock warning light was on for a few years after I removed the relevant fuse, after I cleared the codes it went away and never came back.

The TPMS warning light, on the other hand, always comes back after clearing the codes unfortunately. Is there away to disable it permanently? I couldn't find a solution other than ripping the led off of the motherboard.
 

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Could you let me know where you found that "prompt" setting in OBD fusion, I couldn't find it.

I also have other news. The steering lock warning light was on for a few years after I removed the relevant fuse, after I cleared the codes it went away and never came back.

The TPMS warning light, on the other hand, always comes back after clearing the codes unfortunately. Is there away to disable it permanently? I couldn't find a solution other than ripping the led off of the motherboard.
OBD Fusion: Setting - Vehicle Editor - Select (basically there is a menu here that shows all your module. if you select Prompt, it always asks you which module to connect to at the beginning).

The TPMS light might be just a coincidence! probably one (or more) of your TPM sensors just died! Needs a battery/replace TPMS next time yo change tires!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
OBD Fusion: Setting - Vehicle Editor - Select (basically there is a menu here that shows all your module. if you select Prompt, it always asks you which module to connect to at the beginning).

The TPMS light might be just a coincidence! probably one (or more) of your TPM sensors just died! Needs a battery/replace TPMS next time yo change tires!
Thank you.

As for the TPMS I'm pretty sure all the sensors are dead and have been dead for like 8 or 9 years. I don't intend to fix this stupid system, I just want to remove the annoying light.
 

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If you have direct TPMS (physical sensor inside tire), there is no solution. Wait for next tire installation.


If you have indirect TPMS, just reset the system after correcting the inflation.

Chances are your sensors are direct and need battery, since TPMS was mandated in 2008 and there first generation of sensors were physical sensors inside tires.

Later manufacturers used indirect TPM to estimate the inflation of each tire. There is no sensors in these systems. It uses data from wheel speed sensor to calculate the inflation. There is usually a physical reset button or a reset function in the multi function menu.


————————————
2019 Rogue SL w/Prem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
If you have direct TPMS (physical sensor inside tire), there is no solution. Wait for next tire installation.


If you have indirect TPMS, just reset the system after correcting the inflation.

Chances are your sensors are direct and need battery, since TPMS was mandated in 2008 and there first generation of sensors were physical sensors inside tires.

Later manufacturers used indirect TPM to estimate the inflation of each tire. There is no sensors in these systems. It uses data from wheel speed sensor to calculate the inflation. There is usually a physical reset button or a reset function in the multi function menu.


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2019 Rogue SL w/Prem.

OH yes I have those stupid sensors inside the wheel. I could replace them now relatively cheaply from AliExpress, however I'll have to do that again in w couple of years.

My intention is to disable the light at least, I just couldn't find an alternative to removing the led. I guess there's no other option. I was kinda hoping we could do some programming but I guess that's also impossible with hobbyist level scanners.
 
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