Some notes on the job:
-used OEM part from dealer because I was worried the plastic middle bit was partly at fault
-used OEM long life coolant from dealer
-used distilled water (used almost exactly all of the 1USGal(3.78L) of coolant mixed 55%/45% (we do get to -40' round these parts sometimes)
You do have to remove the engine shield (plastic panel under the bumper)...about 10 poppers
You should remove the rad overflow bottle (1 x 10m bolt)
Drain the coolant (Philips head drain plug spigot on passenger side, behind the plastic rad holder)
Remove the 10mm bolt holding the plastic pipe section to the rad frame...penetrating oil recommended here...mine was pretty rusty (you will want to replace this bolt with a new one)*1
Empty your drain pan and place below the rad end of the hose. Working underneath from centre, use needle nose pliers over top of the engine subframe to loosen and move back the spring clip. Remove hose carefully, there's still quite a bit of coolant remaining in the hose! Gently drain the hose by sliding the end between rad frame and engine subframe, lower and lower until plastic part has come through and all fluid has drained.
Pop the clip holding the hose to the rad frame on the passenger side...or cut it if you bought the oem part as it comes with one
Reaching through the area where the overflow bottle was, use needle nose to loosen spring clip and slide back on to hose. Twist hose off
Feed hose the rest of the way through between rad frame and subframe...remove
Clean and wipe both coolant spigots...the rad side is plastic and will just wipe clean. The engine side will require some work with a wire brush (I used a scouring pad) or coarse steel wool to clean the corrosion off the beveled end. I jammed paper towel up the pipe to make sure no abrasive grit got inside from the clean up (I have a pic of what that looks like when done)
Feed the new part downwards past the alternator and over to the rad side spigot.
Fit end of hose onto rad (leave clip unsprung--oem part comes with a clip that is locked open...you lever up one side and it snaps onto hose when you are ready)
Fit old engine hose clamp onto new part, then fit end of hose onto engine spigot up to stops cast in the aluminum. Adjust clamp with needle nose into position.
*1 Replacing the mounting bolt for the plastic hose:
- 10mm short socket, I used 1/4" drive parts
- reaching down from top wiggle socket onto rusty bolt head
- lower 1/4" drive ratchet from top and let handle slide between rad frame and engine frame
- working from underneath, connect ratchet to socket and begin to loosen. Bolt is about 1" long
- my bolt was so badly rusted I couldn't get it started again, so I used the rad overflow bottle bolt with some antiseize on it (I'll get a new one for that later)
- insert bolt into 10mm socket
- with one hand working from overtop of the subframe and the other from underneath 'feel' your way until you get the bolt through the pipe mounting flange
- you can pull the pipe back a bit to verify you are through and to help guide the bolt end to the clip on the rad frame
- once it is seated (and this was the most awkward part) hand turn the socket until it has started to thread
- again drop ratched from top down and connect to socket
- with one finger on side of socket to generate some friction and allow the ratcheting, tighten bolt
- adjust pipe for level
Now you just have to pop the plastic hose strap on the passenger side into the hold in the rad frame, and spring the rad side hose clamp into place. Easier said than done, but a minute or two of messing around blind I got the tab out of the way and clamp snapped in place
Replace rad overflow bottle (I stole a 10mm bolt from the battery to ECU holder for temporary service), connect hose
Mix coolant to water 50/50 to 60/40 depending on application (more water means better cooling, more coolant means lower freezing temp/better engine protection until 60/40)
Fill rad..will take at least 4L easy
Burp hoses, fill until coolant at top of rad neck
Start engine, set heater to max heat, continue to top up as coolant level drops
Once top hose starts to get warm, replace rad cap and shut off engine
Fill overflow bottle halfway between Max/Min for now. Let engine cool.
On next start, find a nice steep hill or parking ramp, with engine fully warmed up, top on slope and rev engine to 4000 rpm a half dozen times or so, then drive off. Let cool.
Refill bottle to MAX level.
Go for a beer!