Yes. If you replace the ROM it has to be programmed. I replaced my valve body with the same model. No upgrades. and keep the old ROM. Works fine
2009 versa Valve body ROM question
Hi gang, hope you all can confirm something for me. I am replacing the CVT valve body on my 2009 versa. The new one is remanufactured with valve upgrades. I am assuming that they did not redo the ROM. I would prefer to not take it to the dealer to flash the TCU after replacement. Do I need to just swap the ROM with my old one? Or, if I put the new body with new ROM in will it need reflashed?
thank you.
thank you.
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You can even get into trouble with the old ROM if it has ramped up CVT line pressure too high due to common CVT wear issues, the overly high pressure instilled by the original ROM can wear a new trans out too fast. It will appear to work fine as there for sure will be no slipping chain but you won't know if too much until trans goes too quick.
Why I have overlooked this thread for a bit, you can get in trouble EITHER way.
The trans gets the line pressure slowly increased as it ages, a mismatch can hurt.
Why I have overlooked this thread for a bit, you can get in trouble EITHER way.
The trans gets the line pressure slowly increased as it ages, a mismatch can hurt.
Your reply to me or Muzzler?You can even get into trouble with the old ROM if it has ramped up CVT line pressure too high due to common CVT wear issues, the overly high pressure instilled by the original ROM can wear a new trans out too fast. It will appear to work fine as there for sure will be no slipping chain but you won't know if too much until trans goes too quick.
Why I have overlooked this thread for a bit, you can get in trouble EITHER way.
The trans gets the line pressure slowly increased as it ages, a mismatch can hurt.
why? 
Why do you gotta be a smartass? I asked a simple question. Idk if it matters to Muzzler or not. But if your giving ME advice I'd like to know. Listen...I came to this forum because I have a Nissan. That's it. If I didn't have a Nissan I wouldn't be here in this forum. A question was asked, I took it upon myself to answer. Just some advice, that all. So YES it does matter...
Why do you gotta be a smartass? I asked a simple question. Idk if it matters to Muzzler or not. But if your giving ME advice I'd like to know. Listen...I came to this forum because I have a Nissan. That's it. If I didn't have a Nissan I wouldn't be here in this forum. A question was asked, I took it upon myself to answer. Just some advice, that all. So YES it does matter...
Oh and...I saved $4500 doing the work myself. My car kept going into limp mode, I kept driving it. I kept putting tranny fluid. Cuz I figured it was done. I wasn't going to pay to have it repaired for$4500. Id either fix it myself or it was sitting in my garage. So I scanned it. It threw a few codes. Took it to transmission shop was told I was going to get charged $200 an hour the job is going to be 10 hours give or take and with me buying a new transmission. So I fixed it myself. With parts off a wrecked Nissan. Spent zero $. And it runs.why?
Good for you. I have never paid for a car repair ever and on motorcycle too and for over 50 years now. I made and make hundreds of thousands doing it and 3 and usually 4 cars running all that time to keep up with. I toss new car warranties in the trash in front of the dealers to watch their eyes bug out. I've made automatic trans go 20 more years using a 30 cent washer in the right place and $3000 (in under a quarter hour, thats a $12000/hr. pay rate!) saved on that one. Most of my fixes are not in any manual to be very expensive, just changed a clockspring to save $2000 and figured out how to not buy another one if needed at $150, rebuilt the old one at a cost of under $10. One of thousands of things I've done over the years. I don't even care what brand car it is, they all work the same to me.
Smartass? With people responding like you it gets easy to go there; you walk around like you are god, look at that pathetic childlike response! You said yourself you were looking for advice, I added some (FREE no less) and nowhere in there did you say the response had to be directed at you and you only like you were a 'special' child.
I'm sorry you take it personal that your answer got somewhat dirtied by mine but it shows your limited thinking, things are not often so simple and I pointed out why in this case that might be so. If you can't take that then you should learn to be quiet as I am so far ahead of you your brain would explode with how many variables I can throw in front of you that can affect outcome.
Your ROM answer was one of those; I told you why it might be so, don't cry if the trans dies sooner than you think it should, you apparently have no concept of adaptive software strategy at all, and why the ROM (more likely to be EEPROM) is there to begin with.
Smartass? With people responding like you it gets easy to go there; you walk around like you are god, look at that pathetic childlike response! You said yourself you were looking for advice, I added some (FREE no less) and nowhere in there did you say the response had to be directed at you and you only like you were a 'special' child.
I'm sorry you take it personal that your answer got somewhat dirtied by mine but it shows your limited thinking, things are not often so simple and I pointed out why in this case that might be so. If you can't take that then you should learn to be quiet as I am so far ahead of you your brain would explode with how many variables I can throw in front of you that can affect outcome.
Your ROM answer was one of those; I told you why it might be so, don't cry if the trans dies sooner than you think it should, you apparently have no concept of adaptive software strategy at all, and why the ROM (more likely to be EEPROM) is there to begin with.
'So I fixed it myself. With parts off a wrecked Nissan. Spent zero $.'
Did you steal the parts?
See where I'm going and how I zero in on exact details??
Did you steal the parts?
See where I'm going and how I zero in on exact details??
Where did you get your VB from? Satisfied? TIAHi gang, hope you all can confirm something for me. I am replacing the CVT valve body on my 2009 versa. The new one is remanufactured with valve upgrades. I am assuming that they did not redo the ROM. I would prefer to not take it to the dealer to flash the TCU after replacement. Do I need to just swap the ROM with my old one? Or, if I put the new body with new ROM in will it need reflashed?
thank you.
You should know that many VB changes do nothing, the work is commonly chasing worn parts in the rest of trans, the new VB does nothing for that and maybe fixed only to break again in a couple more months. Or maybe doesn't work right then. Depends on the trans wear and where.
VBs generally do not wear hardly at all, them worn is definitely a sign of other bad parts. Part of it is due to CVT needing 800 psi oil pumps instead of the normal 200 ones in other type automatics, the super high pressure kills parts quick.
VBs generally do not wear hardly at all, them worn is definitely a sign of other bad parts. Part of it is due to CVT needing 800 psi oil pumps instead of the normal 200 ones in other type automatics, the super high pressure kills parts quick.
Thanks for your input. I am almost to 170k without major issues, just some limited slip between 10-20mph, all other operation is normal.
You're doing better than many.........I've found with any ATX if you know where the slip occurs you can get longer life by avoiding high engine torque at those times.
The slipping only happens between 10-20 mph and only when lightly accelerating, ie if you accelerate more rapidly, it doesn't slip. At speeds above 20, works perfectly, so I can live with it. Several reputable local transmission shops that were attempting CVT repairs a few years ago will not even touch them now, not even a fluid change ("take to dealer"). I have driven the CVT very easily over the past 150k miles, and still using the original fluid, which looks/smells okay.
I understand and the way the things work can sometimes show you instead of being more gentle, in some cases driving car a bit harder can make it work better. I have a Focus that does the same thing. It locks clutchpacks up better with no slip if you drive it a certain way involving a bit more load.
You find what it likes and stick with it.
You find what it likes and stick with it.
Thanks again for the interesting comments, keeping my fingers crossed for the present
You really do need to change your transmission fluid because transmission fluid doesn't last forever. Changing the fluid might possibly help the slipping. You might also reference the transmission section in the Haynes manual for the Versa. They're not really expensive. I've been really fortunate to not have transmission issues with either my 2012 or now my 2019 Versa so I haven't had to check the transmission section in my Haynes manual. I'm like you, I don't drive my Versa like a race car drive and I keep my transmission fluid changed at every 30,000 miles. So far, no issues. Also, the low end torque isn't great on CVT Versas so that also might explain some of the initial sluggishness in your transmission. I know to go easy on my car at that point and to time my merge into traffic accordingly. I hope these suggestions help you out.The slipping only happens between 10-20 mph and only when lightly accelerating, ie if you accelerate more rapidly, it doesn't slip. At speeds above 20, works perfectly, so I can live with it. Several reputable local transmission shops that were attempting CVT repairs a few years ago will not even touch them now, not even a fluid change ("take to dealer"). I have driven the CVT very easily over the past 150k miles, and still using the original fluid, which looks/smells okay.
The transmission section in any Haynes manual is commonly garbage, and worthless on CVT as they can only show you how to remove the trans. Even Nissan does not go into how to work on the trans in their service manuals, it's change them only. And being CHEAP??? I don't call the average $4000 replacement price with only a one year guarantee cheap at all.
You're lost Bubba.
You're lost Bubba.
Thanks for the info, I’m happy to say that I did change my fluid and filter myself and it is doing better.You really do need to change your transmission fluid because transmission fluid doesn't last forever. Changing the fluid might possibly help the slipping. You might also reference the transmission section in the Haynes manual for the Versa. They're not really expensive. I've been really fortunate to not have transmission issues with either my 2012 or now my 2019 Versa so I haven't had to check the transmission section in my Haynes manual. I'm like you, I don't drive my Versa like a race car drive and I keep my transmission fluid changed at every 30,000 miles. So far, no issues. Also, the low end torque isn't great on CVT Versas so that also might explain some of the initial sluggishness in your transmission. I know to go easy on my car at that point and to time my merge into traffic accordingly. I hope these suggestions help you out.
I’m interested in knowing more about the functionality of my cvt, I have the jf015e which has an auxiliary gearbox along with the cvt pulley design. When I begin moving from a stop, my engine revs upwards to around 1500 and then smoothly lowers back down and the speed increases. Is that the clutch and switching from gear-1 to gear-2?You're doing better than many.........I've found with any ATX if you know where the slip occurs you can get longer life by avoiding high engine torque at those times.
Then around 20 mph, a similar feeling transition occurs, not as pronounced, is that when the pulley ratios system starts? This description is when on a level road with light acceleration. Finally, at 20 mph and higher, is the 2nd gear “high clutch “ still in the drivetrain? Any online reference’s that explain the sequence would be appreciated.
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