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Bought to me a used 2012 Nissan Sentra SR with 68,000 miles on it. Drove it approx. 220 miles in
80 degree weather, stopped for 1/2 hour, started back up drove approx. 1/2 mile stopped at a stop sign, car went into limp mode, yellow dash light came on, engine would not rev over 2000 rpm's, could only go about 5 miles an hour. Pulled over turned car off, drug out manual, first thing manual said was to take off gas cap and put back on tight. I did this, car started back up drove back home 70 miles, ran fine. When I got home, I got out code reader, got code P2101, erased code with reader
And have driven over 150 miles since erase. Car runs fine, no more yellow light on dash. Question is
will the yellow light come back on and will it go back into limp mode. So far so good. Another question about the CVT transmission I am going to change the fluid, drop CVT pan, change filter, put
In new Nissan CVT fluid. What I have read CVT trans holds about 8 1/2 quarts of fluid, when you drain fluid from pan you get approx. 4 to 4 1/2 quarts. What if you start up engine for approx. 30 seconds to refill pan again to get out remaining fluid. Then refill with new fluid or will it hurt the trans to do this. I cannot see that It will hurt the trans as you are only running it for about 30 seconds. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks Spudman
 

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The DTC P2101 stands for Throttle Actuator “A” Control Motor Circuit Range/Performance. It's usually triggered when the ECU detects that the actual throttle position does not match the desired throttle position. Once this happens, the ECU puts the engine into “fail safe” which prevents rpms above 2000. In your case, since it happened once, it can happen again. Inspect the harness connectors at the throttle valve to make sure they are tight and also the harness connectors at the accelerator pedal lever near the top where the sensors are located. Do not unplug any of those harness connectors or else you'll have to go through the re-learn procedures for resetting the idle speed - that's something I'm sure you won't want to go through.

The CVT uses a wire screen filter instead of a solid mesh filter. Normally all you need to do is remove the drain plug and do a drain/fill procedure. Most of the time there's no need to replace the filter unless you find debris in the drained fluid that's greater then 1 mm (0.040 in) in size; drain the fluid through a large coffee filter to look for debris. For a simple drain/fill, it takes about 4.25 quarts of the NS-2 fluid; pour in 4 qts. Now make sure to Fully warm up the CVT by driving the car around slowly for about 30 minutes. Now let it idle and slowly pour a little of the fluid in, then check your dip stick and if not full, pour some more in. Just a little at a time until it's at the full mark. Now drive it some more for about 15 minutes or more, then check the fluid level while it's idling.

If you plan to flush the system of old fluid, It's not advisable to start the engine with a dry CVT pan. Reason being is the CVT oil pump will lose it's prime so the remaining fluid in the torque converter will never come out and on top of that some DTC's will be set that can possibly put the CVT into "fail safe" mode. The best way to flush out all the old fluid is to disconnect the input hose to the CVT cooler that's remotely attached to the frame of the car. With the disconnected hose going into a drain pan, start the engine and let it idle and at the same time pour new fluid into the fill tube. Keep doing this until you start seeing the new fluid coming out of the disconnected hose.
 
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