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Key fob won't lock / unlock / panic or trunk. I can unlock with button on handle. Changed battery and checked settings that " I key " is on. Any suggestions? 200miles outside warranty, dealer said if it still starts car, and can open doors using the button on door handle some " setting could be off ". Any suggestions before I bring in to dealer??? Thanks yall.
 

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Many of us are experiencing exactly the OPPOSITE issue from you.. where the dashbaord will say ''Key ID Incorrect'' and we wouldn't be able to start the car. At times I would not be able to use my button on the door handle I would have to unlock it with the Key Fob.

I was just at my dealership getting and oil and filter change and mentioned it.. the first advisor said they need to order new key fobs with updated BCM or some bull shit like that lol...The second advisor said all they have to do is replace the battery which sots around 4-5 dollars. So they did that... it's only been a day or two so we'll see if the Key ID incorrect error pops up again.
 

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Ya I had the incorrect id for awhile also, but that only happened a few times. It's weird. One day both FOB work, now none. I don't get it.
 

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Change the battery.. That should fix it if not then you will have to get it reprogrammed.
I just started having this problem. I'll try changing the battery. Thanks. On the other hand, I find it a bit annoying that one of the possible warning messages is to indicate that the battery is low but that message has never appeared -- if the battery is low enough to cause problems it seems like it is low enough to be worth giving the "battery is low" message.
:frown

- Les
 

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I just started having this problem. I'll try changing the battery. Thanks. On the other hand, I find it a bit annoying that one of the possible warning messages is to indicate that the battery is low but that message has never appeared -- if the battery is low enough to cause problems it seems like it is low enough to be worth giving the "battery is low" message.
:frown

- Les
I'm having this same problem with a 2013 Altima S I just bought. It's definitely not the batteries - they've been changed and double checked. Both of my FOB's fail to do anything with the buttons, but the transponder is clearly working because the start button and all the door and trunk request buttons work 100% when the FOB is in proximity. There are absolutely no low battery warnings.

This is most puzzling. :frown

You might want to try to procedure described here.
Unfortunately, it didn't work for me...
 

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I'm having this same problem with a 2013 Altima S I just bought. It's definitely not the batteries - they've been changed and double checked. Both of my FOB's fail to do anything with the buttons, but the transponder is clearly working because the start button and all the door and trunk request buttons work 100% when the FOB is in proximity. There are absolutely no low battery warnings.

This is most puzzling. :frown

You might want to try to procedure described here.
Unfortunately, it didn't work for me...
That procedure you cited sounds a little like a cure for hiccups. I think I'd like to hear some rationale behind it before I'm likely to take it seriously. (Edit: I should add, the problem that I'm having is in getting the message "Key ID incorrect" on occasion. It works just fine most of the time.)

As for your problem, have you verified that the "I-Key door lock" function is activated in the vehicle settings menu?

- Les
 

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That procedure you cited sounds a little like a cure for hiccups. I think I'd like to hear some rationale behind it before I'm likely to take it seriously. (Edit: I should add, the problem that I'm having is in getting the message "Key ID incorrect" on occasion. It works just fine most of the time.)

As for your problem, have you verified that the "I-Key door lock" function is activated in the vehicle settings menu?

- Les
According to the owners manual, the "I-Key door lock" selection in the vehicle settings is supposed to turn on/off the function of the request switches on the doors and trunk. Those work fine for me.

The procedure described in that message actually sounds similar to the method used for user-reprogramming of many smart key equipped vehicles. Many are even more convoluted. I took it seriously when I first read it - it sounded reasonable.
Unfortunately, I'm beginning to believe than Nissan has eliminated such a method on the 5th generation Altima. I'm thinking that an expensive smart key programmer is required to do anything with them - even just reprogramming the remote. I hope I am wrong. It looks like anything that will work with cars as new as ours costs close to $1000 or more to buy. The dealers have us by the balls and they know it. I may look for a local automotive locksmith to see if anyone has such a machine and will do it for a reasonable price.

In your case, I'm wondering if your transponder signal is encountering some interference. That could cause erratic and somewhat unreliable operation. Two smart keys inside the car at once can supposedly cause problems. Other nearby RFID devices could also. That does not explain the failure of the remote functions however - that should be a totally separate thing.
 

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According to the owners manual, the "I-Key door lock" selection in the vehicle settings is supposed to turn on/off the function of the request switches on the doors and trunk. Those work fine for me.

The procedure described in that message actually sounds similar to the method used for user-reprogramming of many smart key equipped vehicles. Many are even more convoluted. I took it seriously when I first read it - it sounded reasonable.
Unfortunately, I'm beginning to believe than Nissan has eliminated such a method on the 5th generation Altima. I'm thinking that an expensive smart key programmer is required to do anything with them - even just reprogramming the remote. I hope I am wrong. It looks like anything that will work with cars as new as ours costs close to $1000 or more to buy. The dealers have us by the balls and they know it. I may look for a local automotive locksmith to see if anyone has such a machine and will do it for a reasonable price.

In your case, I'm wondering if your transponder signal is encountering some interference. That could cause erratic and somewhat unreliable operation. Two smart keys inside the car at once can supposedly cause problems. Other nearby RFID devices could also. That does not explain the failure of the remote functions however - that should be a totally separate thing.
I guess I breezed through your message a little too quickly -- I was thinking that when you said the buttons do nothing you meant the "request switches" but I realize now that you are talking about the buttons on the smart-key itself. If it was only one smart-key which is failing I would think it just a mechanical or electrical problem in the smart-key but since neither of yours work, I doubt that it has anything to do with the keys themselves -- I would think that it is a problem with the car. Since enabling engine start, door and trunk operations, etc., are passive functions (and those all work for you) but remote start, remote door locks, etc., are active functions (which apparently do not work), perhaps they have two separate receivers in the car and one is working, but the other is not. A naive, but quick check might be to check your fuses and make sure they are all healthy -- beyond that you are probably going to need professional troubleshooting. Good luck.

As for your interference theory, you might be on to something. I have an RFID key fob for the security system at work on the same key chain as my smart-key -- it's possible that under some conditions it is causing enough interference to keep my smart-key from being recognized. I could try keeping the two in separate pockets or something like that (hopefully, separation is all that is necessary -- I can't do without either one). Thanks for the insight.

- Les
 

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Kreemerz
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I had similar issue. They told me to bring it in this weekend for them to reprogram the FOBs.

We'll see what happens.
 

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I had similar issue. They told me to bring it in this weekend for them to reprogram the FOBs.

We'll see what happens.
What is it specifically that is not working? Just the remote buttons, just the request buttons on the door handles, or both?

We are discussing several different issues in this thread and I'd like to understand if we are talking about the same thing.

-Greg
 

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Kreemerz
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What is it specifically that is not working? Just the remote buttons, just the request buttons on the door handles, or both?

We are discussing several different issues in this thread and I'd like to understand if we are talking about the same thing.

-Greg
It's both. Seemed to be an issue with the remote. I haven't tested the other one but this week has been the worst.
 

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The OP had the solution. I sent him a PM and he said resetting the ECU fixed the problem for him. I couldn't believe it was that simple, but it was.

I put the I-key inside the car, disconnected the battery - waited a few minutes - and reconnected the battery again. Worked like a charm. I had to do the same thing with the other keyfob since it was out of range when I did the first one.

Apparently the ECU does something different on a cold boot. It must sent out a data packet that programs the remote entry transmitter to a matching code. I would assume that the transponder codes are verified first, which is why the I-key must be inside the vehicle. The transponder signal is very short range (a couple of feet). The transmitter for the remote OTOH, it much longer range. Mine works hundreds of feet away.

Please note, I believe this only solves the problem of the I-key remote buttons not working. My door request switches were working fine beforehand, and I had no other problems with error messages or the start button. If you are having problems like those, you may have a transponder signal interference issue, a bad I-key battery, or (less likely) a bad Intelligent key or one that needs to be reprogrammed.
 

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The other day my door button wouldn't unlock the car or give any feedback. I had a pair of Samsung Galaxy S5 earbuds (small magnet) in the same pocket as the keyfob and it worked fine. I also have a passive RFID key for my work on the same keychain. I guess I had just enough interference between the two.
 

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Precautions to take with Intelligent Key

Altima 2013 Owners Manual (Dated June 2012)

While this may not be the answer to the original OP's problem, following are just a few of the conditions which may affect / change key operation. There is a lot of info in the manual.

Page 3-2

● Do not attach the Intelligent Key with a
key holder that contains a magnet.
● Do not place the Intelligent Key near
equipment that produces a magnetic
field, such as a TV, audio equipment and
personal computers.

Page 3-7

The Intelligent Key is always communicating with
the vehicle as it receives radio waves. The Intelligent
Key transmits weak radio waves. Environmental
conditions may interfere with the operation
of the Intelligent Key under the following
operating conditions:


● When operating near a location where
strong radio waves are transmitted, such as
a TV tower, power station and broadcasting
station.
● When in possession of wireless equipment,
such as a cellular telephone, transceiver,
and CB radio.
● When the Intelligent Key is in contact with or
covered by metallic materials.
● When any type of radio wave remote control
is used nearby.
● When the Intelligent Key is placed near an
electric appliance such as a personal computer
● When the vehicle is parked near a parking
meter.
:laugh
 

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bessington
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On one key fob I had an issue of the buttons on the fob not working. I replaced the battery and found I still wasn't getting a good response from the car at a reasonable distance. Then my other key fob I didn't have any issues with the buttons on the key fob but when I was in the car, I would get the "Key ID Incorrect" message and couldn't start the car.

I don't live close to a Nissan dealership to fix the issue so if I planned on going to a dealership, it would mean giving up on a vacation day to drive out to the dealership. So I figured I'd look in the key fob and just see if anything stood out to me. Both issues were months apart and the solution ended up helping both. I don't know if it's just a huge coincidence but after I did this fix it seemed to have fixed both fobs.

So in the image below, the key fob is opened up. Highlighted in red, is the contact that the battery connects to. I noticed on both key fobs that this was worn where the battery connection would touch. So what I did was I took the metal part of a bread twist tie and wrapped it around the area highlighted in blue. It resolved issues with both key fobs and I haven't had an issue since. Honestly it could be a huge coincidence but it worked for me. It's probably always better to just go to the dealership to resolve something under warranty but I always enjoy avoiding those places as much as possible!

 

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Key fob won't lock / unlock / panic or trunk. I can unlock with button on handle. Changed battery and checked settings that " I key " is on. Any suggestions? 200miles outside warranty, dealer said if it still starts car, and can open doors using the button on door handle some " setting could be off ". Any suggestions before I bring in to dealer??? Thanks yall.
I had that exact problem and this worked for me: I pressed the unlock button on the door handle, got in, closed the door, held the brake down for about 60 seconds while looking for the place to put the key, remembered there wasn't one -- LOL (it's not the car I drive -- I just have a spare fob), got back out and pressed the lock button on the door. Then I tried the unlock on the fob again while I was walking away and it worked! Lock also worked, as well as panic. I didn't try the other 2. IDK if it will work for anyone else but I wanted to share it -- no harm in trying!
 
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