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Because if you can figure out what resistance it is you can go into radio shack and buy the resistor for a buck.

This effectively does nothing to create more horsepower. It makes the ecu think there's more air, the ecu responds by adding more fuel. But this is only one half the of equation in making power, hence nitrous or forced induction. You need more air, fuel by itself does not make power, in fact by running rich, you will actually probably lose horsepower normally, that and you'll lose gas mileage, and possibly destroy your cat.

UltimaSE
 

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Another Boosted Altima
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Bump.

I got this idea of hooking up a a fan infront of the intake filter. It should push around 400-600 CFMs. Would this do any good, will it actualy push that much. I mean thats what the blade is supposed to push.

Thanks for reading, any comments (good or bad ) will help
 

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EYE SEE EVERYTHING!!!
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Re: Re: +20HP chip

easternjane said:
its only 5 $. why not test it?

Paying $5 and $2 shipping is kinda funny!!! My buddy just got one off e-bay and he paid $1.20 + .35 shipping!!! Just think... it gets shipped in a standard envelope through the post office.
 

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vaser3120 said:
Bump.

I got this idea of hooking up a a fan infront of the intake filter. It should push around 400-600 CFMs. Would this do any good, will it actualy push that much. I mean thats what the blade is supposed to push.

Thanks for reading, any comments (good or bad ) will help
What are you planning on running this off of? the battery? There is an electric forced induction option now, but it's useful only in spurts and then you'll need a couple of batteries and possibly upgrade your charging system.

Otherwise, do a search on electric supercharger, there's quite a bit of information there. But in short there's really no cheap way of mimicking forced induction. There's really just turbo, supercharging, nos, and the newly electric supercharging.

UltimaSE
 

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vaser3120 said:
Bump.

I got this idea of hooking up a a fan infront of the intake filter. It should push around 400-600 CFMs. Would this do any good, will it actualy push that much. I mean thats what the blade is supposed to push.

Thanks for reading, any comments (good or bad ) will help
The engine won't suck in any more air than it already does. The only way to get more air in the cylinder during intake is to either use a better intake and more aggressive cams, or pressurize the manifold which would require the use of a high-volume compressor, which is also known as a turbocharger or a supercharger.
 

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The 'electric supercharger' is not cheap ($1500??) but is kind of the next step from what UltimaSE was talking about-it uses multiple batteries and produces 'supposedly' according to the companies 1/4mile times and dyno, turbo like results (around 50-70whp and low 14sec 1/4times for auto) ......

Other than FI like they said, a good Place Racing CAI will produce 13whp dynoed but anything less will produce very little results though the excitement and/or curiosity/experience from experimenting may be enough incentive for you.....

Jeremy
 

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Breu Meister
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I would see a cold air intake...depending on weather, temperature...gaining around the 10hp mark.. I can't see it much more than that.
 

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for the record, and i 'll say this once, having kept out of "dyno dicussions" at this place..

dyno numbers prove nothing.

you can tweak the input variable to absolutely anything to promote a product or BS a number... hell ! do the pull in 3rd gear for a nice jump in numbers... the list goes on...

different dynos make different numbers, the ONLY thing they are good for is tuning.. ie, get car, do pull, grab numbers... make your changes, put the same car on the same dyno on relatively same temp and baro pressure and u can measure the relative NOT absolute gains that you have made.

eg, i have a mate in South Africa running 340bhp 3.7l TT.. doesnt sound like much? well he is at something like 6000 ft above sea level.. do that same car on the same dyno at sea level and you have an m3 beating, nay smaking, engine... not to mention in the actual races at altitude, the n/a bimmer is toast.


devnull, is very right - a n/a engine is just that... it relies on cylinder pressure and overall induction design (including valve duration, lift etc) to determine how much air is gunna go in... the only way to beat these constraints is forced induction. a very good indication of how efficient n/a cars breathe is by comparison to intercooler-less turbos.. they dont make a whole lot more power... big turbos work by ramming lots of cool, and thus dense, air into the same contraints of the n/a motor, which will still benefit a bunch with heavy head work ($$). this is also why turbos benefit at low pressure (high altitude) vs. n/a which really suffer.

ps: chip is BS... on a modern motronic car i would be really surprised if a CAI nets more than 5-7hp itself, unless the stock manufacturer built in a heavy restriction for some reason (eg, for NVH).. some cars these days go backwards with just a cai (eg, wrx, and i think even the current type R - not sure, i'm not much into the rice scene-)
 

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its very hard to give a blanket number on what cars will gain with an aftermarket induction system.. some cars are very cool running and have well designed intakes aimed at power... again some are different... there are about 1000 design variations that could impact on the effectiveness of just about any aftermarket product... suffice to say, esp in the case of true sports cars... OEM is generally best...
 
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