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Rockin the Kasbah
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4,106 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
(I made this for this board specificaly, as there has been recent questions and PMs to me about KA-T setups. If there is anythign seriously wrong with what I typed, please PM me)

Being that not everyone is up to dropping the many Japanese engine options into their 240, the KA-T setup has increased popularity tenfold over the past 3-5 years. Once considered a truck motor only, the KA24DE has evolved into a excellent option for 240 draggers and for those who are looking for something different than the norm. This thread is to serve not as a bible, but more or less a guideline for going KA-T. The information below however does not pertain to the KA24E at all. I’d suggest for the single slammers out there to upgrade to a dual cam KA or just go SR. Sorry, but no use in being mad at yourself :)

I’ll break this down into the main areas of any turbocharger project. As always there are things like headwork and standalone fuel management that would put your KA projects on the cutting edge, but I’ll try to keep this list for the normal everyday booster. Those who understand standalone options normally wouldn’t read a thread like this for ideas, so I’ll try not get to in depth with those options.

ENGINE: KA24DE-T
As before, the naturally aspirated KA is anemic at best. Low revving, low redline, and low fun. Enter the world of boost. Being that KA’s are known to create more torque per HP than their SR counterparts, some consider that the main deterrent to going for the high revving SR. With stock bottom ends, they have been known to handle 10 to 12 PSI without breaking a sweat. While there are some who have pushed the edge with success, the majority of those who do end up going “KA-boom”. A typical t3/t4 based setup at 10 pounds will easily net you 250whp and about 260ish ft lbs. (More can be had at that level, but that’s a conservative estimate) Again, just because so and so managed 400whp on a stock bottom end, doesn’t mean you will.

As with most people who boost, the thrill to ‘turn up the heat’ is a very imposing force. In order to turn up boost safely, you will undoubtedly need to build your bottom end. While the KA bottom end is ‘overbuilt’ for NA needs, this is a blessing in disguise for those going KA-T. Full girdle and piston squirters are things many boosters dream off factory. The downfall, is that unlike the SR, it’s pistons are designed for NA and NA only. Upgrading pistons and rods to forged aftermarket units is the way to go when boosting 1 bar +. Arias, JE and Wiseco all offer great pistons and Crower or Pauter rods are the only rod choices to go with IMO.

TURBOCHARGERS:

The T3/T04E has emerged as the choice of most when it comes to KA-T builds. Cheap, effective and built in many different configurations, the T3/T4 is the small block chevy 350 of KA turbos. While there are many options, most consider the .63 hotside and .60 coldside as the way to go with your t3/t4 setup.

In recent time however, some members have opted to build custom t2 based setups and most have shared good success. The GT2871r .86 has emerged as a fantastic option for someone looking for the quicker spooling characteristics of T28 based applications. Some members with forged internals have also begun to look into higher end ball bearing turbos for their weapon of choice. GT30’s and GT35’s have emerged, as well as the Awesome Precision SC61.

*EDIT --> Also be sure to check out ATP Turbos new 't3 flange' option for such awesome turbos like the GT28RS and the GT2871r. This will help you retain the t3 manifolds that are most common in the KA-T marketplace.

The main thing to consider is how much boost you are running. For those with unbuilt bottom ends, smaller t3/t4s and t28 setups are the way to go. No use in slapping a SC61 on there and only running it 10 psi (AKA: Way out of it’s efficiency range). For those looking for good drag setups, go T3/T4. For those looking for quick responding track cars, look into a t28 based setup.

TURBO MANIFOLDS:
There are many RWD KA turbo manifolds out there on the market. Manifold choices include the following: RevHard, Phat-KA, Ground Zero, and Full Race. All of these manifolds are proven performers on many ka-t setups.

In order to got T2 based, you will need to go custom manifold. Using Weld-El’s and custom flanges is the way to go (if making a nice log manifold).

WASTEGATES:
The simple choice for all external gate setups under 350whp is the awesome Tial Sport 38mm wastegate. Offered with many different boost pressure springs, its’ certainly the choice for average users, to those who compete on a serious scale. Turbosmart Ultragates also work wonderfully, but will cost you a lot more. There are also lesser cost alternatives, like those offered from Turbonetics…but simply put they are junk.

Those who t28 based setups with internal gates, will probably prefer to step up to an HKS actuator to ensure good boost levels.

Lastly, the question of open dump vs reroute comes up. For those looking for the most power, you should dump into the open. The downfall of this way is the awful open exhaust noise. For those looking for a stealth setup, reroute your wastegate dump!

ECU/FUEL MANAGEMENT:
This is an area that can certainly be debated until the end of time. The two clear choices (and only choices IMO) are Jim Wolf Technology and RS Enthalpy. Clarke at JWT has been tuning Nissans longer than most of us have been alive, while Scott has been an SR20 mastermind for Southern Florida. Enthalpy tunes have across the board made between 15-30 more WHP peak than JWT tunes (who is on the more conservative side). Both options will work fantastic, are truly plug and play and is simply down to your personal choice.

Now there are always those looking for cheap ways (aka shortcuts) in their turbo setups. Enter the ApexI “Super AFC” and the Greddy “Emanage”. Both of these management options will work, but will require tuning in order to get the right result. Both options in my eyes, are simply cheap ways out initially. Once people get them tuned ETC, it would have simply been cheaper in the end to go JWT or Enthalpy.

Lastly, there are always standalone options. I’m not going to dive into these options, but you will undoubtedly get the most power from these avenues. AEM EMS, Haltech and the sort will require tuning (and some require complete rewiring of all factory wires.) This choice should be a choice for turbo experts, and are not something to even consider for a first turbo setup. Again, these options are very expensive and will need to be tuned.

FUELING:
Any turbo setup is need of a bigger and better fuel pump. As with 90 percent of all aftermarket turbo kits, the Walbro 255lph pump is the way to go. While some have used Z32 pumps and the sort, you can’t beat the reliability and results of the Walbro.

Injectors are narrowed down to pretty standard options. For those not wanting to upgrade fuel rails, Nissan 370cc injectors from SR20’s or Z32’s are the way to go for those wanting to stay below 270whp. Nismo 550cc injectors can be used for those looking to stay under 350whp. The main disadvantage of the larger side feeds is cost.

For those looking to upgrade fuel rails for larger more free flowing setups, there are 3 quality choices for those who are also upgrading to top feed injectors. Jim Wolf, JGY, and Phat-KA offer awesome fuel rails for your RWD KA-T platform. When using these fuel rails, you will need to also use top feed injectors, like the venerable MSD 50lbers and 72lbers. For those staying under 350whp, stay with the 50’s. For fewer than 450, use the 72’s.

As far as FPR’s, the NISMO FPR is the way to go when using JWT and JGY Rails. You can also use remote lined FPR’s such as Aeromotive units, but you will need a rail plug for the FPR spot.

MAF’s:
The two most popular (and only options as far as I’m concerned) are the Cobra MAF and Z32 Maf. Both are fantastic, and both can be readly found or used. JWT Tunes use either choice, whereas Enthalpy uses Z32. Both are good up to 500+ hp, but the Cobra requires a special circuit for usage above 350whp.

EXHAUST/DOWNPIPES:
Exhausts are really all equal in my eyes, with the only difference being sound. 3” exhaust IMO is the best and only way to go with your turbo setup. 2.5 will work, but 3” is the better choice. Options like the RSR ExMag catback provide 3” power but manage to make it nice and quiet. HKS Hyper Exhausts are also 3”, provide the same power as ExMags, but are a lot louder. It’s truly down to what fits your price range and how noticeable you want to be. I like the RSR ExMag myself, as it’s 3”, black with a single chrome tip, and doesn’t attract police 

Downpipe options are also up to you. There are always options like those offered in turbo kits, or the Nsport Downpipe, however most will opt to go custom in this area. Phat-KA also offers a nice 3” downpipe. Boost Designs offer one, but they are scammers, so stay away from these guys. I’d suggest 3” only for this application!!! Again, 2.5 will work fine, but 3” is simply best.

Lastly, remember that downpipes can also be manifold dependent, so do homework when selecting these. Try to stay with the same brand manifold and downpipe if possible, like the Phat-KA kit.

Upgrading to a high-flow catalytic converter is also another must have upgrade for turbo guys. Trust me; your stock cat will be a HUGE hindrance to power. Test pipes and cat delete pipes are also great options, but are illegal, and cause for much debate with police 


BLOW OFF VALVES:
This is another option that rests on you the user! Things to consider are a BOV that recirculates, as that will work best on Nissans (or any MAF application for that matter). The Greddy Type S and new Type RS work fantastic as recirculation valves. The HKS Super Sequential now also has adapters to work in recirc applications as well.

INTERCOOLER OPTIONS:
The most popular option for KA-T guys is going custom in this area. Popular FMIC’s include Greddy units, whereas JohnnyRaceCar intercoolers provide awesome bang for buck. Spearco cores also can be used, and are considered the best by most serious tuners.

As far as kits are concerned, the Phat-Ka S13 kit is a great deal for S13 Ka-T monkeys. Precision Intercooler, and 2.5” pipes will provide ultimate response for your KA.

Some people have found success using factory OEM sidemounts, but I consider that just another cheap way out/shortcut. If you do consider this, use BlueBird sidemounts, as they are bigger/better than the JDM 240 units.

OIL FEED/RETURN:
Oil Feed lines should come direct from a T in the Oil Pressure Sensor spot. Remember, the block is 1/8” BSPT not NPT. Steel Braided -3 or -4 line will work, and a Brass Pressure Restrictor will also be needed. For return, you will need a flange for the bottom of the turbo, and you will need to tap your upper aluminum oil pan for best results. Most oil feed and return supplies can be found at ATP Turbo.

CLUTCHES:
This is another option to be left up to user. The best choice in terms of drivability with clamping force is the JWT Z33 Flywheel and Clutch. Yes, I did say 350z. The JWT flywheel has the holes for both applications. 1200 clamping force is awesome. Did I also mention it’s on a full sprung clutch DISC! Yes, no pucks here!

ACT Also offers great options in use with stock flywheel.

The biggest thing is your cash. I’d rather spend more money on the JimWolf Setup, and have a clutch nice enough for grandma to drive, rather than deal with the clattery mess we call 6 puck unsprung discs. Remember our cars are our toys, so there is no reason to be mad at ourselves by installing a race application clutch.

GAUGES:
The best option, for price and performance is Autometer. While others may be better, I just don’t see the reason to spend triple on a gauge. I’d suggest Boost Pressure, Oil Pressure, and Water Temp. There is no need for a A/F Ratio gauge when using a JWT or Enthalpy tune. However, for those who aren’t, the ONLY option to go is the PLX M300 or M500 Wideband system. The best part about this system is that the wideband sensor can be used in place of the stock sensor, while providing wideband output to your gauge and narrowband output to the ecu. DO NOT DO NOT DO NOT rely on a simple A/F gauge that you can get at autozone. They are nothing more than a fancy fireworks gauge with no precision.

EXTRA/TURBO TOYS:
As with any turbo setup, there are always little extras to make boosting even more fun. Electronic boost controllers are the most obvious fun toy, and the Greddy Profec Type S is the only way to fly. Upgraded radiators with electronic fans are another good upgrade, but not needed for normal boosted fun. Turbo timers also are nice functional little tools that work well.

So now you know the parts, now what kind of setup would I suggest???

For stock internal setups, or a 300 max hp and below:
T3 Flanged GT28RS, T3/To4E
Phat KA Manifold
Phat KA Downpipe
JWT ECU
Cobra MAF
JWT Fuel Rail
MSD 50lbs Injectors
Walbro Pump
Phat KA Intercooler Kit (Or JohnnyRaceCar I/C with custom pipes for S14)
Greddy Type S BOV
RSR ExMag Exhaust
Nismo FPR
Tial 38mm Wastegate with Reroute.
JWT Z33 Flywheel and Clutch Kit
Greddy Profec Type S EBC
Autometer Gauges
PLX M300 Wideband


For setups 400 whp and Below I’d go the following:
Arias 8.8 Pistons
Pauter Rods
Precision SC61 or Garrett GT30
Full Race Manifold
Custom 3” Downpipe
Cobra MAF
JWT ECU
JWT Fuel Rail
MSD 72lbs Injectors
Walbro Pump
Phat KA Intercooler Kit (Or Spearco Intercooler with custom pipes for S14)
Greddy Type S BOV
RSR ExMag Exhaust
Nismo FPR
Tial 40mm Wastegate, open dump
JWT Z33 Flywheel and Clutch.
Greddy Profec Type S EBC
Autometer Gauges
PLX M300 Wideband


Whew! There you have your semi-complete guide on all things KA-T. Hopefully this clears up a lot of questions and unknowns for those going this way.

Remember, going cheap intially will only cost you more in the end. Don't take shortcuts and do your homework. Foolishly spending 3000 bucks to blow your engine is certainly a huge waste of time, so ensure your engine has good compression and does not have multiple problems aside from turbo related items.

Boost hard, but Boost smart. Remember that boost is entirely throttle dependent, and that it will quickly get you in trouble with both the law and others if not used correctly.

Have fun!!!
 

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.net lurker
Joined
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210 Posts
Other noteworthy points-
- When purchasing turbo products many people try to go with cheap companies like SS Autochrome or the like. I would advise against going that route as many of their products have proven to be less than up to par. Dont say i didnt warn you.

- For a BOV, Another option to consider is using a DSM 1st Gen (not a 2nd gen) BOV, they can be found for a fraction of the price of the big company providers and work just as well.

This is all that comes to mind for now, If i remember anything else ill include it

Chris
 

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Rockin the Kasbah
Joined
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4,106 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Great post Steve...

I'll actually make a copy of my 'where to buy your turbo from' guide from the F/I area and sticky it here :)
 

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Registered
Joined
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1 Posts
great info

Ace i am new to the nissan forum and i enjoyed the the ka article very much. I myself have a 97 240sx se s14 and i am rebuilding the ka24de. However, I am running out of funds. Would you know of any sponsors that may help me complete my car for the 2007 show season? Again thanks for the info on finding my internals, i work at an Advanced Auto and my resources are limited.

Thanks
Nissandriver_21
 

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Rockin the Kasbah
Joined
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4,106 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Nissandriver: Getting sponsered (in today's enthusist world) is near impossible unless you have some 'in' in the market. I hate to say it, but it's the truth :(
 

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Registered
Joined
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1 Posts
(I made this for this board specificaly, as there has been recent questions and PMs to me about KA-T setups. If there is anythign seriously wrong with what I typed, please PM me)

Being that not everyone is up to dropping the many Japanese engine options into their 240, the KA-T setup has increased popularity tenfold over the past 3-5 years. Once considered a truck motor only, the KA24DE has evolved into a excellent option for 240 draggers and for those who are looking for something different than the norm. This thread is to serve not as a bible, but more or less a guideline for going KA-T. The information below however does not pertain to the KA24E at all. I’d suggest for the single slammers out there to upgrade to a dual cam KA or just go SR. Sorry, but no use in being mad at yourself :)

I’ll break this down into the main areas of any turbocharger project. As always there are things like headwork and standalone fuel management that would put your KA projects on the cutting edge, but I’ll try to keep this list for the normal everyday booster. Those who understand standalone options normally wouldn’t read a thread like this for ideas, so I’ll try not get to in depth with those options.

ENGINE: KA24DE-T
As before, the naturally aspirated KA is anemic at best. Low revving, low redline, and low fun. Enter the world of boost. Being that KA’s are known to create more torque per HP than their SR counterparts, some consider that the main deterrent to going for the high revving SR. With stock bottom ends, they have been known to handle 10 to 12 PSI without breaking a sweat. While there are some who have pushed the edge with success, the majority of those who do end up going “KA-boom”. A typical t3/t4 based setup at 10 pounds will easily net you 250whp and about 260ish ft lbs. (More can be had at that level, but that’s a conservative estimate) Again, just because so and so managed 400whp on a stock bottom end, doesn’t mean you will.

As with most people who boost, the thrill to ‘turn up the heat’ is a very imposing force. In order to turn up boost safely, you will undoubtedly need to build your bottom end. While the KA bottom end is ‘overbuilt’ for NA needs, this is a blessing in disguise for those going KA-T. Full girdle and piston squirters are things many boosters dream off factory. The downfall, is that unlike the SR, it’s pistons are designed for NA and NA only. Upgrading pistons and rods to forged aftermarket units is the way to go when boosting 1 bar +. Arias, JE and Wiseco all offer great pistons and Crower or Pauter rods are the only rod choices to go with IMO.

TURBOCHARGERS:
The T3/T04E has emerged as the choice of most when it comes to KA-T builds. Cheap, effective and built in many different configurations, the T3/T4 is the small block chevy 350 of KA turbos. While there are many options, most consider the .63 hotside and .60 coldside as the way to go with your t3/t4 setup.

In recent time however, some members have opted to build custom t2 based setups and most have shared good success. The GT2871r .86 has emerged as a fantastic option for someone looking for the quicker spooling characteristics of T28 based applications. Some members with forged internals have also begun to look into higher end ball bearing turbos for their weapon of choice. GT30’s and GT35’s have emerged, as well as the Awesome Precision SC61.

*EDIT --> Also be sure to check out ATP Turbos new 't3 flange' option for such awesome turbos like the GT28RS and the GT2871r. This will help you retain the t3 manifolds that are most common in the KA-T marketplace.

The main thing to consider is how much boost you are running. For those with unbuilt bottom ends, smaller t3/t4s and t28 setups are the way to go. No use in slapping a SC61 on there and only running it 10 psi (AKA: Way out of it’s efficiency range). For those looking for good drag setups, go T3/T4. For those looking for quick responding track cars, look into a t28 based setup.

TURBO MANIFOLDS:
There are many RWD KA turbo manifolds out there on the market. Manifold choices include the following: RevHard, Phat-KA, Ground Zero, and Full Race. All of these manifolds are proven performers on many ka-t setups.

In order to got T2 based, you will need to go custom manifold. Using Weld-El’s and custom flanges is the way to go (if making a nice log manifold).

WASTEGATES:
The simple choice for all external gate setups under 350whp is the awesome Tial Sport 38mm wastegate. Offered with many different boost pressure springs, its’ certainly the choice for average users, to those who compete on a serious scale. Turbosmart Ultragates also work wonderfully, but will cost you a lot more. There are also lesser cost alternatives, like those offered from Turbonetics…but simply put they are junk.

Those who t28 based setups with internal gates, will probably prefer to step up to an HKS actuator to ensure good boost levels.

Lastly, the question of open dump vs reroute comes up. For those looking for the most power, you should dump into the open. The downfall of this way is the awful open exhaust noise. For those looking for a stealth setup, reroute your wastegate dump!

ECU/FUEL MANAGEMENT:
This is an area that can certainly be debated until the end of time. The two clear choices (and only choices IMO) are Jim Wolf Technology and RS Enthalpy. Clarke at JWT has been tuning Nissans longer than most of us have been alive, while Scott has been an SR20 mastermind for Southern Florida. Enthalpy tunes have across the board made between 15-30 more WHP peak than JWT tunes (who is on the more conservative side). Both options will work fantastic, are truly plug and play and is simply down to your personal choice.

Now there are always those looking for cheap ways (aka shortcuts) in their turbo setups. Enter the ApexI “Super AFC” and the Greddy “Emanage”. Both of these management options will work, but will require tuning in order to get the right result. Both options in my eyes, are simply cheap ways out initially. Once people get them tuned ETC, it would have simply been cheaper in the end to go JWT or Enthalpy.

Lastly, there are always standalone options. I’m not going to dive into these options, but you will undoubtedly get the most power from these avenues. AEM EMS, Haltech and the sort will require tuning (and some require complete rewiring of all factory wires.) This choice should be a choice for turbo experts, and are not something to even consider for a first turbo setup. Again, these options are very expensive and will need to be tuned.

FUELING:
Any turbo setup is need of a bigger and better fuel pump. As with 90 percent of all aftermarket turbo kits, the Walbro 255lph pump is the way to go. While some have used Z32 pumps and the sort, you can’t beat the reliability and results of the Walbro.

Injectors are narrowed down to pretty standard options. For those not wanting to upgrade fuel rails, Nissan 370cc injectors from SR20’s or Z32’s are the way to go for those wanting to stay below 270whp. Nismo 550cc injectors can be used for those looking to stay under 350whp. The main disadvantage of the larger side feeds is cost.

For those looking to upgrade fuel rails for larger more free flowing setups, there are 3 quality choices for those who are also upgrading to top feed injectors. Jim Wolf, JGY, and Phat-KA offer awesome fuel rails for your RWD KA-T platform. When using these fuel rails, you will need to also use top feed injectors, like the venerable MSD 50lbers and 72lbers. For those staying under 350whp, stay with the 50’s. For fewer than 450, use the 72’s.

As far as FPR’s, the NISMO FPR is the way to go when using JWT and JGY Rails. You can also use remote lined FPR’s such as Aeromotive units, but you will need a rail plug for the FPR spot.

MAF’s:
The two most popular (and only options as far as I’m concerned) are the Cobra MAF and Z32 Maf. Both are fantastic, and both can be readly found or used. JWT Tunes use either choice, whereas Enthalpy uses Z32. Both are good up to 500+ hp, but the Cobra requires a special circuit for usage above 350whp.

EXHAUST/DOWNPIPES:
Exhausts are really all equal in my eyes, with the only difference being sound. 3” exhaust IMO is the best and only way to go with your turbo setup. 2.5 will work, but 3” is the better choice. Options like the RSR ExMag catback provide 3” power but manage to make it nice and quiet. HKS Hyper Exhausts are also 3”, provide the same power as ExMags, but are a lot louder. It’s truly down to what fits your price range and how noticeable you want to be. I like the RSR ExMag myself, as it’s 3”, black with a single chrome tip, and doesn’t attract police 

Downpipe options are also up to you. There are always options like those offered in turbo kits, or the Nsport Downpipe, however most will opt to go custom in this area. Phat-KA also offers a nice 3” downpipe. Boost Designs offer one, but they are scammers, so stay away from these guys. I’d suggest 3” only for this application!!! Again, 2.5 will work fine, but 3” is simply best.

Lastly, remember that downpipes can also be manifold dependent, so do homework when selecting these. Try to stay with the same brand manifold and downpipe if possible, like the Phat-KA kit.

Upgrading to a high-flow catalytic converter is also another must have upgrade for turbo guys. Trust me; your stock cat will be a HUGE hindrance to power. Test pipes and cat delete pipes are also great options, but are illegal, and cause for much debate with police 


BLOW OFF VALVES:
This is another option that rests on you the user! Things to consider are a BOV that recirculates, as that will work best on Nissans (or any MAF application for that matter). The Greddy Type S and new Type RS work fantastic as recirculation valves. The HKS Super Sequential now also has adapters to work in recirc applications as well.

INTERCOOLER OPTIONS:
The most popular option for KA-T guys is going custom in this area. Popular FMIC’s include Greddy units, whereas JohnnyRaceCar intercoolers provide awesome bang for buck. Spearco cores also can be used, and are considered the best by most serious tuners.

As far as kits are concerned, the Phat-Ka S13 kit is a great deal for S13 Ka-T monkeys. Precision Intercooler, and 2.5” pipes will provide ultimate response for your KA.

Some people have found success using factory OEM sidemounts, but I consider that just another cheap way out/shortcut. If you do consider this, use BlueBird sidemounts, as they are bigger/better than the JDM 240 units.

OIL FEED/RETURN:
Oil Feed lines should come direct from a T in the Oil Pressure Sensor spot. Remember, the block is 1/8” BSPT not NPT. Steel Braided -3 or -4 line will work, and a Brass Pressure Restrictor will also be needed. For return, you will need a flange for the bottom of the turbo, and you will need to tap your upper aluminum oil pan for best results. Most oil feed and return supplies can be found at ATP Turbo.

CLUTCHES:
This is another option to be left up to user. The best choice in terms of drivability with clamping force is the JWT Z33 Flywheel and Clutch. Yes, I did say 350z. The JWT flywheel has the holes for both applications. 1200 clamping force is awesome. Did I also mention it’s on a full sprung clutch DISC! Yes, no pucks here!

ACT Also offers great options in use with stock flywheel.

The biggest thing is your cash. I’d rather spend more money on the JimWolf Setup, and have a clutch nice enough for grandma to drive, rather than deal with the clattery mess we call 6 puck unsprung discs. Remember our cars are our toys, so there is no reason to be mad at ourselves by installing a race application clutch.

GAUGES:
The best option, for price and performance is Autometer. While others may be better, I just don’t see the reason to spend triple on a gauge. I’d suggest Boost Pressure, Oil Pressure, and Water Temp. There is no need for a A/F Ratio gauge when using a JWT or Enthalpy tune. However, for those who aren’t, the ONLY option to go is the PLX M300 or M500 Wideband system. The best part about this system is that the wideband sensor can be used in place of the stock sensor, while providing wideband output to your gauge and narrowband output to the ecu. DO NOT DO NOT DO NOT rely on a simple A/F gauge that you can get at autozone. They are nothing more than a fancy fireworks gauge with no precision.

EXTRA/TURBO TOYS:
As with any turbo setup, there are always little extras to make boosting even more fun. Electronic boost controllers are the most obvious fun toy, and the Greddy Profec Type S is the only way to fly. Upgraded radiators with electronic fans are another good upgrade, but not needed for normal boosted fun. Turbo timers also are nice functional little tools that work well.

So now you know the parts, now what kind of setup would I suggest???

For stock internal setups, or a 300 max hp and below:
T3 Flanged GT28RS, T3/To4E
Phat KA Manifold
Phat KA Downpipe
JWT ECU
Cobra MAF
JWT Fuel Rail
MSD 50lbs Injectors
Walbro Pump
Phat KA Intercooler Kit (Or JohnnyRaceCar I/C with custom pipes for S14)
Greddy Type S BOV
RSR ExMag Exhaust
Nismo FPR
Tial 38mm Wastegate with Reroute.
JWT Z33 Flywheel and Clutch Kit
Greddy Profec Type S EBC
Autometer Gauges
PLX M300 Wideband


For setups 400 whp and Below I’d go the following:
Arias 8.8 Pistons
Pauter Rods
Precision SC61 or Garrett GT30
Full Race Manifold
Custom 3” Downpipe
Cobra MAF
JWT ECU
JWT Fuel Rail
MSD 72lbs Injectors
Walbro Pump
Phat KA Intercooler Kit (Or Spearco Intercooler with custom pipes for S14)
Greddy Type S BOV
RSR ExMag Exhaust
Nismo FPR
Tial 40mm Wastegate, open dump
JWT Z33 Flywheel and Clutch.
Greddy Profec Type S EBC
Autometer Gauges
PLX M300 Wideband


Whew! There you have your semi-complete guide on all things KA-T. Hopefully this clears up a lot of questions and unknowns for those going this way.

Remember, going cheap intially will only cost you more in the end. Don't take shortcuts and do your homework. Foolishly spending 3000 bucks to blow your engine is certainly a huge waste of time, so ensure your engine has good compression and does not have multiple problems aside from turbo related items.

Boost hard, but Boost smart. Remember that boost is entirely throttle dependent, and that it will quickly get you in trouble with both the law and others if not used correctly.

Have fun!!!
Would you happen to have any helpful things to address about Ka24de machined head work like cams, valve springs, valves ect..
 
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