The Nissan Club banner

Not open for further replies.
1 - 4 of 4 Posts

524 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Car: 2000 Altima SE, M5.

Disclaimer:I am not an auto mechanic. I wrote this procedure from an idiot's point of view. If you harm yourself or your car using this procedure, I do not take responsibilty.

1) Front mount: $29.88 at Parts America. (Nissan part is 11270M).
2) Rear mount: $38.88 at Parts America. (Nissan part is 11320).

Total with tax: $74.43 Nissan stealership wanted $438.07 for this job. What a freaking rip-off.

Courtesy Nissan has the front/rear mounts for $40/$60 plus shipping. I should have gotten those and I will recommend that you get the OEM parts, as you will see later. I endorse the use of cheaper aftermarket parts whenever they look good and perform well, but the Beck Arnley mounts have some issues, so go with OEM.

Symptoms: There was a thunking whenever I would go from 1st to second gear. I could feel it in my foot.

1/2" Impact, 1/2" breaker-bar, 1/2" ratchet, 1/2" torque wrench, 1/2" stubby extension, 1/2" 17MM deep socket, 1/2" 14MM deep socket, 1/2" 14MM shallow socket, 1/2" swivel, 3/8" impact, 3/8" air ratchet, 3/8" 14MM deep well socket, 3/8" shallow 10MM socket, 3/8" stubby extension, 3/8" swivel. No wrenches involved in this job.

The job:
As usual, you need to jack up your car and put it on jackstands. Also, remove your negative battery cable. After the car is secure on jackstands, put your floor jack underneath the oil pan with a block of wood or a book or cardboard between the jack and the pan. Put only a small amount of pressure on the oil pan: just enough to make the motor move upward a little. We'll adjust the tension later.
This is what you see when you look under the front of the car. That big bracket you probably used to jack up the car is the engine mount member. You see the 2 17MM front bolts.
Here' a pic of the damage to my rear mount. This is why this job had to be done. Yours might be similar.
Here's a pic of the front mount, just behind the radiator.
First, remove the dust cover bolts for the pass-side dust cover and the driver's side dust cover. You only have to remove the bolts on the underside of the car unless you want to completely remove the dust cover. I just removed enough to let the dust covers drop out of my way. They are 10MM bolts.
Now remove the front-mount mounting bolt next. The bolt runs through a bracket mounted to the tranny and through the front mount. There is a nut on the other side. You have to hold the bolt head with a 14MM socket and spin the 14MM nut off with another ratchet or air-ratchet.
Once the nut has been removed, slide the bolt out.
If it doesn't want to come out, mess with the tension on the jack underneath the oil pan. If you still can't get it out, just wait until you loosen the member mounting bolts and nuts and that will give you some wiggle to release tension on the bolt.
Next, remove the rear-mount mounting bolt. This bolt runs through a bracket and the mount, then screws into a fixed bolt on the other side of the bracket that the mount fits into, so there is no nut to hold. The bolt is also 14MM. It is hard to see the bolt and I couldn't get a good pic of it, but you'll be able to find it above the flex joint in the exhaust. I had to use the 1/2" breaker bar and a 1/2" short extension with a 1/2" 14MM shallow socket to break it loose at first, then I used the 3/8" air-ratchet and deep socket.
Slide the bolt all the way out of the mount.
If it won't come out, mess with the tension on the jack underneath the oil pan. If it still won't come out, wait until you get the member fasteners loose which will give you some wiggle.
Now that the mount-bolts are out, you need to loosen the mount member fasteners. There are 2 17MM bolts in the front that you saw in the first second pic and 3 17MM nuts holding down the rear. I loosened all of these with a 1/2" impact and a deep 17MM socket.
The front bolts and rear nuts are now loose, so if you haven't gotten the bolts that go through the mounts out yet, you can now wiggle the member to help get that done. Once the bolts that go through the mounts are out, you can remove the member.
When the front- and rear-mount mounting bolts are out, you can unscrew the member mounting nuts.
After the rear member nuts were off, I held the bracket and unscrewed the front member bolts by hand, while supporting the member with my other hand and pulled it out of the car.
Here's a pic of the damaged rear mount:
Removed the old brackets with 14MM socket. I used the impact. God, I'm lazy.:)
Here's a comparison of the Beck Arnley and Nissan mounts.
Here's the part I did not like about he Beck Arnley front mount:
Notice that the inner part of the mount is clocked in the wrong position and there is no arrow on the rubber to show you which way the mount is supposed to go. I tried flipping it over both ways. Oh well, the front mount doesn't appear to do much anyway.
Time to install the new mounts on the old member. Be sure to notice the arrow on the mount, if it has one. That arrow points toward the front of the car. If there is no arrow, make it like the OEM part.
After the mounts are installed on the member, put the member back up into the car. Put the rear member mounting nuts on finger-tight at first, then put the front mount bolt though the front mount. There was plenty of wiggle since everything was loose.
Go ahead and install the nut but don't tighten it yet.
Install the front member mounting bolts loosely.
Install the bolt that goes through the rear mount. Be sure that you have it started with your fingers and that it is not cross-threaded into the fixed nut. If you cross-thread that, you'll have hell getting that bolt back out. Get the bolt in there, but don't tighten it yet.
Now, tighten the front and rear fasteners for the mount.
There is no torque listed in the book, but I put the bump-stick on 100ft/lbs and made sure they were all tight.
Now, tighten the bolts that go through the front and rear mounts.
There is not torque listed for those either, so I went with good-and-tight.
Lastly, install the dust cover bolts.
Congratulations, you just installed the front and rear mounts on your Altima!
Now take the jack out from underneath the oil pan, jack the car up, remove the jackstands, lower the car, and go for a drive.

This job took only 36 minutes with air tools, so I didn't even have time for a beer during the job, but you're welcome to drink one now. :love:


///M Time!
3,872 Posts
Thanks so much!!! I plan on doing Taz's MMIs soon this will help out so much!

Just read through. Awesome write-up. Thanks again!

FAQ this!

92 Posts
just replaced the front engine mount on my 00 altima se yesterday. didn't even take off the cross bar. used a long flex handle (breaker bar) and loosened the mount bolts from top.

rear mount will be different for sure.
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
Not open for further replies.