[batxel]

Am I loosing it or is there no way to get to the top of the rear struts?? I attempted removing the rear struts but apparently some goof ball was working on the car last as there is one 13 mm nut with washer (non factory) and a 12 mm nut holding up my driver side rear strut. The 12 mm nut came off fine. The 13 mm nut came loose but spins with the bolt so I don't know how I can get this strut off the car. I doubt I can hacksaw it off and I wasn't planning on buying a dremel.

 

[carfreak67]

Did you try looking in the trunk area?
It's either there or under the package tray beneath the back window.

Guess I was lucky that when I pulled my rear shocks I had no trouble with the nuts in the wheel well.

 

[Doozer]

I had to get at that same area when I replaced my rear struts. One of the bolts sheared off, so I had to drill it out and put a new bolt in its place to hold the strut.

There IS a way to reach the top, but you're not going to like it. It's a huge pain in the ass, because that area was not meant to require maintenance.

You need to (in this order):
- take out rear bench seat
- take out rear seatbacks
- take off the 2 rear side C-pillar covers (be extra careful if you have the side-impact airbags)
- take out the rear deck cover
- take out the seatbelt mechanism on the side you want to reach

Then, where the rear seatbelt is anchored, there's a gap that you can barely stick your hand into to feel to the top of the strut mount.

It's a huge pain to get at, but all that disassembly only takes maybe an hour - even less after you've done it a couple times. The worst part is how awkward it is to actually do anything even after you've got access.

EDIT: if the threads spin at all, it means it's been replaced at some point. The original bolt is actually welded to the frame (the 12mm one). The only way it would spin is if the original was drilled out and a normal bolt (unwelded) was used to replace it, like what I had to do.

 

[batxel]

Did you try looking in the trunk area?
It's either there or under the package tray beneath the back window.

Pulling back the carpet reveals weird shaped panels to hide stuff in. This could come in handy if I was drug dealer.

I had to get at that same area when I replaced my rear struts. One of the bolts sheared off, so I had to drill it out and put a new bolt in its place to hold the strut.

There IS a way to reach the top, but you're not going to like it. It's a huge pain in the ass, because that area was not meant to require maintenance.

You need to (in this order):
- take out rear bench seat
- take out rear seatbacks
- take off the 2 rear side C-pillar covers (be extra careful if you have the side-impact airbags)
- take out the rear deck cover
- take out the seatbelt mechanism on the side you want to reach

Then, where the rear seatbelt is anchored, there's a gap that you can barely stick your hand into to feel to the top of the strut mount.

It's a huge pain to get at, but all that disassembly only takes maybe an hour - even less after you've done it a couple times. The worst part is how awkward it is to actually do anything even after you've got access.

EDIT: if the threads spin at all, it means it's been replaced at some point. The original bolt is actually welded to the frame (the 12mm one). The only way it would spin is if the original was drilled out and a normal bolt (unwelded) was used to replace it, like what I had to do.

:confused2
Wow that's a lot of work for something that should have only took me 20 min. I might just go to a shop and tell them I need 1 shock replaced and see what they say.

 

[dvo2]

A shop tried to charge me 250 bucks per side for shocks

 

[carfreak67]

A shop tried to charge me 250 bucks per side for shocks

Did you laugh in their face?
I would have told them they were fucking idiots and left.

 

[Doozer]

Yeah, it's not actually that difficult, just annoying.

The bench seat actually comes out in 2 seconds ... there are just 2 clips underneath that you unhook and the whole thing comes out.

The seatbacks are similar, except they're held with 3 bolts to the floor, and a few to the back.

The pillar covers were the worst because they aren't really bolted (actually, there might be 2 bolts), but they're mostly clipped, so you have to tug in just the right way, and will probably snap off some plastic.

I wish I would've taken some pictures, because I just had it apart about a week ago. I can't weld, but permanently attaching that replacement bolt would definitely be the way to go, since it would prevent you having to get back in there in the future.

 

[Robertmcell]

Yeah, it's not actually that difficult, just annoying.

The bench seat actually comes out in 2 seconds ... there are just 2 clips underneath that you unhook and the whole thing comes out.

The seatbacks are similar, except they're held with 3 bolts to the floor, and a few to the back.

The pillar covers were the worst because they aren't really bolted (actually, there might be 2 bolts), but they're mostly clipped, so you have to tug in just the right way, and will probably snap off some plastic.

I wish I would've taken some pictures, because I just had it apart about a week ago. I can't weld, but permanently attaching that replacement bolt would definitely be the way to go, since it would prevent you having to get back in there in the future.

What kind of car was this fix on
I've got a murano with this problem

 

[notamechanic]

I had to get at that same area when I replaced my rear struts. One of the bolts sheared off, so I had to drill it out and put a new bolt in its place to hold the strut.

There IS a way to reach the top, but you're not going to like it. It's a huge pain in the ass, because that area was not meant to require maintenance.

You need to (in this order):

• take out rear bench seat
• take out rear seatbacks
• take off the 2 rear side C-pillar covers (be extra careful if you have the side-impact airbags)
• take out the rear deck cover
• take out the seatbelt mechanism on the side you want to reach

Then, where the rear seatbelt is anchored, there's a gap that you can barely stick your hand into to feel to the top of the strut mount.

It's a huge pain to get at, but all that disassembly only takes maybe an hour - even less after you've done it a couple times. The worst part is how awkward it is to actually do anything even after you've got access.

EDIT: if the threads spin at all, it means it's been replaced at some point. The original bolt is actually welded to the frame (the 12mm one). The only way it would spin is if the original was drilled out and a normal bolt (unwelded) was used to replace it, like what I had to do.

I also sheared the bolt. Do you have any tips for drilling out the welded bolt? I’m having a lot of trouble. Did you go at it from the top or bottom? Did you use a drill bit the same size as the bolt or what?

Because my bolt sheared sideways, I’m considering buying an oscillator tool to file it down flat to the surface, then go at it with the drill again.

 

[d0ugmac1]

I'd keep at it from the bottom, and I'd buy a die grinder instead of an oscillator, it will work better up in the confined space. I'd start with a smaller diameter, say 1/8", and make sure it's a brand new (or at least still very sharp) HSS drill bit. Once you've made it through once, you can more easily enlarge the hole.

 

[notamechanic]

I'd keep at it from the bottom, and I'd buy a die grinder instead of an oscillator, it will work better up in the confined space. I'd start with a smaller diameter, say 1/8", and make sure it's a brand new (or at least still very sharp) HSS drill bit. Once you've made it through once, you can more easily enlarge the hole.

I ended up using the die grinder and going in from the wheel well on your recommendation. It was a very arduous process to drill it down as flat as I could and I used an assortment of dies. Once I got it pretty flat, I broke a titanium DeWalt drill bit on the still slightly jagged bolt. Purchased HSS DeWalt bits instead, and those did better. Made an initial hole applying a ton of pressure for a long time using a small HSS bit and impact driver. I increased the size of the hole going back and forth with the die grinder and impact drill but that was also not easy. I put several hours in over a few days traveling back and forth to Lowes but eventually got a bolt through and reattached the shock.

It's also very important to note the order of reassembly as you disassemble the original shock. If you get something out of order, you will find out as you start driving and you will have to start over (like me).

Thanks for your help! Would have taken me a lot longer and possibly wasted money if I didn't start with a die grinder.