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Alternator/battery issues 2007 Altima 3.5 SE

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Please help me to identify part attached to the battery. What does it do and how to test it?
New battery only tests at 11.7v. With car running, no change. New alternator, new AGM battery.
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Please help me to identify part attached to the battery. What does it do and how to test it?
New battery only tests at 11.7v. With car running, no change. New alternator, new AGM battery.
It's called a "fusible link box and relay". It contains a cooling fan relay and the horn relay.
Battery is dead at 11.7 volt, needs to be 12.3 or higher. Car running it has to come up to 13.5 or higher or alt not working.
It's called a "fusible link box and relay". It contains a cooling fan relay and the horn relay.
Thank you for answering. How can I test If it’s good? Is this in any way related to the alternator output?
Like 8-10 tests to check that part, it does several things. Service manual stuff.
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Thank you for answering. How can I test If it’s good? Is this in any way related to the alternator output?
A properly working charging system puts out about 13.2 to 15.0 volts, but this is a general spec, and the factory service manual should be referenced for the correct charging system voltage specifications for a particular vehicle. A battery should have a static charge of 12.3-12.8 volts when the engine is shut off. If a battery is not good, the charging system may not be able to charge properly. If a vehicle is not charging properly and the battery is good, the first thing to do is to turn the ignition switch to the "ON" position without starting the engine and make sure the charging system warning light is operating. If the bulb is burnt out, the charging system will not charge. If the bulb is OK but still does not illuminate, the circuit must be tested. If the warning lamp does illuminate, then the next thing to check is to make sure the circuit between the battery positive post, or fusible link, to the connection in back of the alternator is good. On Nissans, this will be a thick (approx. 10 gauge) wire to the "BAT" post on the back of the alternator. It's not uncommon for this wire to get corroded and burn up, creating resistance in the circuit. So, before assuming an alternator is bad, make sure this circuit is good and battery voltage is getting to the alternator. It's also important to make sure the alternator belt is tight and not slipping and the battery connections are clean and tight. Do a voltage drop test between the positive battery post and the alternator post (should be below 200mV) and the negative post to the body and block (both should be under 50mV). To test the "fusible link box and relay", download a PDF copy of the FSM from:
See less See more
A properly working charging system puts out about 13.2 to 15.0 volts, but this is a general spec, and the factory service manual should be referenced for the correct charging system voltage specifications for a particular vehicle. A battery should have a static charge of 12.3-12.8 volts when the engine is shut off. If a battery is not good, the charging system may not be able to charge properly. If a vehicle is not charging properly and the battery is good, the first thing to do is to turn the ignition switch to the "ON" position without starting the engine and make sure the charging system warning light is operating. If the bulb is burnt out, the charging system will not charge. If the bulb is OK but still does not illuminate, the circuit must be tested. If the warning lamp does illuminate, then the next thing to check is to make sure the circuit between the battery positive post, or fusible link, to the connection in back of the alternator is good. On Nissans, this will be a thick (approx. 10 gauge) wire to the "BAT" post on the back of the alternator. It's not uncommon for this wire to get corroded and burn up, creating resistance in the circuit. So, before assuming an alternator is bad, make sure this circuit is good and battery voltage is getting to the alternator. It's also important to make sure the alternator belt is tight and not slipping and the battery connections are clean and tight. Do a voltage drop test between the positive battery post and the alternator post (should be below 200mV) and the negative post to the body and block (both should be under 50mV). To test the "fusible link box and relay", download a PDF copy of the FSM from:
Thank you for the information.
You should be able to get it tested for free at an AutoZone or similar. You can also buy your own tester like this one (Amazon link): https://a.co/d/do1FsdQ
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