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I was wondering if somebody could post an in-depth stey-by-step picture how-to for changing the oil/filter yourself in the Altima. That would save a lot of us money, and I would really like to know how to do it myself....
 

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Oil changes are relatively easy to do, and you probably don't really need an Altima-specific guide.

Go here: www.google.com

Enter this: "oil change" + "how to"

Browse results.
 

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You're kidding. (don't worry, I'm not going to flame you).

Very simple. Only things to really pay attention to are,
o don't tighten the drainplug more than 29 foot/pounds
(I use 26)

o don't overtighten the filter.. manual calls for 2/3's after
contact.

o don't over or under fill.

This car is one of the more simple ones to change because everything is easliy reached.

So, warm up the engine but not much (remember, the oil and filter can get quite hot).

Remove the filler cap and drain the oil into a pan made for this.

Reinstall the drainplug with washer and tighten to 26 foot/pounds.

Remove the old filter and wait a few minutes, then wipe of the filter gasket mating face on the engine.

Spread some new oil around the gasket of the new filter.

Install the new filter and tighten to 2/3's turn past contact.

Add fresh oil to the crankcase.. 4.25 quarts for the V6.

Put the filler cap back on and start the engine. Wait about 10 seconds (make sure the oil light is out), then run the RPM's up to around 2500 for a moment. Stop the engine and get back under the car to check for any leaks around the new filter and the drainplug.
 

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the one thing that doesn't make sense is that u put the drainplug back on b4 u took off the oil filter...when u unscrew the oil filter, more oil leaks out of the filter and into the engine so i leave the drainplug un-plugged and take off the filter and i let it drain for about 30 min. to get all the bad crap that settles at the bottom of u'r oil pan, drip out. then i put the filter back on, then the drain plug. then i put the oil in and start it letting it sit for two minutes to get up to normal operating temp. then i check it and add if needed
 

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i hate that crud @ the bottom of the oil pan. besides taking off the pan, you really can't do much about it. argh!
TweekersAltima, your muffler looks photoshopped. weird lighting I guess. My parents are looking for houses in your area. How do you afford the 1/2 million dollar house?
Jae
 

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pvick said:
You're kidding. (don't worry, I'm not going to flame you).

Very simple. Only things to really pay attention to are,
o don't tighten the drainplug more than 29 foot/pounds
(I use 26)

o don't overtighten the filter.. manual calls for 2/3's after
contact.

o don't over or under fill.

This car is one of the more simple ones to change because everything is easliy reached.

So, warm up the engine but not much (remember, the oil and filter can get quite hot).

Remove the filler cap and drain the oil into a pan made for this.

Reinstall the drainplug with washer and tighten to 26 foot/pounds.

Remove the old filter and wait a few minutes, then wipe of the filter gasket mating face on the engine.

Spread some new oil around the gasket of the new filter.

Install the new filter and tighten to 2/3's turn past contact.

Add fresh oil to the crankcase.. 4.25 quarts for the V6.

Put the filler cap back on and start the engine. Wait about 10 seconds (make sure the oil light is out), then run the RPM's up to around 2500 for a moment. Stop the engine and get back under the car to check for any leaks around the new filter and the drainplug.

Very Informative, pvick!!
I normally add 4 quarts, however I install the little MOBIL1 oil filter!! This could be the difference in 4.25 and 4!! ;)

Anyway, good job! :D
 

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SLCentral said:
I was wondering if somebody could post an in-depth stey-by-step picture how-to for changing the oil/filter yourself in the Altima. That would save a lot of us money, and I would really like to know how to do it myself....
Dude, no flame intended, but you coulda asked your mechanic/service rep to show you when you got your 1st oil change. I dont know your exp. but instead of someone doing the work to show you how to do it, you could have asked a service tech.
 

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yeah no flame intended.....you're an idiot. just kidding, i had no idea either. ive been letting the dealer do it everytime. i know you all think thats retarded but, "momma always said"(waterboy) when the dealer does everthing for your car they keep a record. which makes it easyier to sell your car. all the buyer has to do is go to the dealer and every scheduled maintenence is on file and the future owner will be reassured the car was taken care of. yeah the dealer costs and arm and a leg, but it pays off in the long run.
 

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Pays off in the Long Run

totalycrazy said:
yeah no flame intended.....you're an idiot. just kidding, i had no idea either. ive been letting the dealer do it everytime. i know you all think thats retarded but, "momma always said"(waterboy) when the dealer does everthing for your car they keep a record. which makes it easyier to sell your car. all the buyer has to do is go to the dealer and every scheduled maintenence is on file and the future owner will be reassured the car was taken care of. yeah the dealer costs and arm and a leg, but it pays off in the long run.

I changed my own oil for years. It is well.........like mowing the grass.

Dealers give specials and keep records on the vehicle.

Synthetic oil is still contaminated from the fuel.

Sorry, I do not see any advantage to changing your own oil and purchasing synthetic with so called extended dirty oil in your crackcase.
 

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so what are you trying to say? are you against changing the oil yourself anymore?
 

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I am not against anyone doing what they enjoy.

For years just learning how mechanicals worked was fun. So, I changed my own oil etc.

Now, I agree with your analogy. That is, why bother changing something so mundane that it compares to mowing grass.

Lets face it the typical used car buyer wants service records and if these records are from a dealer well........all the better.

Oh, one last comment concerning changing your own synthetic. I did change the oil on my 1998 Dodge Intrepid ES with full synthetic every six thousand miles. It did not prevent an engine failure. The only reason I drive a new Altima is because one piston ring failed on the Dodge at 90,000 miles.
 

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pvick said:
Reinstall the drainplug with washer and tighten to 26 foot/pounds.
Not to be technical, but when you are talking 26 lb-ft it is not appropriate to use 26 foot per pounds because people will not know how to measure that funky unit of measure.

I know what you are talking about though.
 

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To TweekersAltima;

Good point about leaving the drainplug out while removing the filter. I'm not sure with this car, the oil will drain back into the crankcase when you remove the filter. I would have to see an oil schematic (I have one in my shop manual.. perhaps I should check that out). I know that would not have happened with my two Ford Contours ('96 SE, 2000 SVT), or my '88 Mustang LX 302CID because the filter was on a downward angle.

Besides, I only have one drainpan.. but a good point anyway
 

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To SLCentral;

You would know how tight to make the drainplug by reading the owner's manual and using a torque wrench. Don't worry.. you'll learn soon enough if you really want to be a gearhead.
 

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To Altima-02;

It shouldn't make any difference which filter you use if it is an OEM replacement as far as the quantity of oil. I would not take the chance of just filling with 4 quarts. This engine seems to consume a little oil.. maybe 1/2 a quart in a 4000 mile cycle. I use 4000 miles with synthetic and 3000 miles with dyno oil.
 

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Thurznite, my exhaust looks photochopped?...that's news to me and i'm 17 and I don't live in Rowland Hts. per say...i live in West Covina bordering Walnut in a nice quite area w/ 200,000 dollar homes from the 50's or 60's. I don't live in Vantage Point in Rowland Hts. w/ all the fancy expensive rich people houses.
 
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