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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys,
Hopefully someone can help me. I have read over and over and am not sure what to do. I have a 1997 Maxima and it is stalling out and dying at stops. The problem is intermittent. Sometimes at stops the rpms drom to 500 or below and then drop to zero causing it to shut off. I can crank it back and no issues. Sometimes I crank it and it keeps dying until I give it gas. Also sometimes I am driving and giving it gas and I feel it has no power than jerks and rpms jump and it goes again. The rpms also jump and I get hesitation at highway speed. I noticed a while back before it started dying the around 35 to 40 mph it would jump a little with hesitation.

Also the speedometer has quit working. I replaced the VSS and still that doesnt work. May be a total different issue. I changed fuel filter and cleaned MAF sensor. I also found an air line and replaced it because it was dry rot. Still same issue.

I also notice at highway speeds say im up to 2200rpm or so and I let of gas the rpms stay there no matter what until i slow way down or hit brakes. Shouldnt they drop as soon as I let off gas?? I checked codes and I am getting a code for knock sensor and egr valve, but ive had those for years and dont think thats the issue. I also looed in throttle body and it looks clean.

I hope someone can help because I dont wanna replace a bunch of parts that are okay. Any ideas guy?? Please help me out.

I am confused because the issues at idle and hesitation at highway speeds and RPMs "freezing" at high speeds.

Any help would be much appreciated.


Michael
 

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The idle problem could be a dirty IACV valve. The power problem could be a major intake system vacuum leak. To check the intake system for a vacuum leak, attach a vacuum gauge to a full vacuum source. A good place to connect to is the charcoal canister. There should be three hoses connecting the carbon canister. Two of the hoses go to a purge valve that's built into the canister. The second larger hose off the purge valve should be your vacuum line. With the engine fully warmed up, the reading at idle should be 18 - 20 InHg. At 3,000 RPM, it should be around 21 InHg.

If readings are under 18 InHg, check the intake manifold nuts to make sure they are tight. The gasket may have failed; spray a water mist at the gasket to see if the gauge reading changes. Also check the intake plenum bellows at the throttle valve and at the MAF for cracks or loose clamps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the info. I have the IACV off. Doesn't look like much to clean. Just the end of the plunger has a little buildup. Theres alot of dryrot on the gasket that goes to the MAF sensor and also on the other side that goes to throttle body.
 

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Possible fuel pump failure due to plugged or just old age. Verify that injectors are flowing correctly by removing them and using a 9v battery tap the + while holdig the -on the correct prong. Check plugs for caron tracks and or cracks in the ceramic as well as for correct gaps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the help guys. I cleaned TB and IACV and put everything back together and it cranked right up. Idle at 850 or so. Seems cleaning made a difference. I drove it around the block and seemed fine. Parked it and came out to test drive it an hour later and it wouldn't start. Engine just turning over. Tried again 5 minutes later and cranked right away. Sounded good for a minute and then died again......

I'm going to replace fuel pump tomorrow morning and see what happens. BTW after the cleaning I did mist the vacuum lines when it was idling well and it had no effect. Is there a relay existing in the car I can swap with fuel pump relay to make sure that's not an issue or is that unlikely. I will test vacuum properly when I can grab a gauge.

Thanks again for taking the time to chime in. It's much appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Put in a new fuel pump this Morning. Drove for a while thought it was good and they it stalled out at the gas station. Weird thing is when I have AC on full blast it doesn't shut off. What's up with that? I have a friend coming over tomorrow to help me check injectors and vacuum, but I drove it 50 miles today and no hesitation or problems as long as ac was on.......strange. anyone have any idea how that's possible?
 

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09 Altima 3.5SE 6MT Sedan
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CPS can cause start/no start situations. There are diagostics tests in the FSM you should follow to debug, howver my understanding was that NIssan programmed a lot of their ECUs to ignore the crank position sensor in favour of the cam position sensors ( because of the high failure rate). Not sure if this applies to your model year though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I'm at work now. I disconnected it at lunch and it cranks like normal so I do believe you are correct. Gonna dig in on this thing when I get home.
 

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09 Altima 3.5SE 6MT Sedan
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I would focus on the cam sensors and if they check out, then investigate the engine grounding (but that's more of a crank, no crank thing) rather than start no start.

For the cam sensors, remove the plugs and check for signs of oil or corrosion on the contacts. If clean and dry, remove sensor and check for crud on the sensor post inside the engine.
 
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