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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys tried to search for this but couldn't find the fix to the problem..

Went to go start-up the car the other day and the car would start/Idle fine then if I gave it a tiny bit of gas while it was in Neutral the rpms would go up then go down to almost where it dies...this was the first time where something like this has happened...this happened right after I hadn't driven the car in a while after it had been in storage and going to a cold-climate area where it's now (if that matters at all)...

Well now, the car will start-up then just pretty much the rpms would drop and die, then turn the car over again and the car starts up perfectly like there was never a problem to begin with...its starting to do this every time I start the car and I see it being much worse as the problem persists into the near future...

*Cliffs: So..with my foot Off the gas as i start the car up it seems like its fine then as the idle goes to level out the rpm's drop and it dies, unless as i start it up i give it a little gas then the idle levels out and it seems to run fine. and some times if i rev the engine only in Park/Neutral instead of revving up the rpm as it goes to idle again it almost dies like rpms will drop real low like it's about to die (<200 rpm).

No SES light except the first time it did it and now it's off, so I don't know if there are any codes since the check engine light is NOT ON...

but just throwing out some possibilities electrical? - sensor? or Fuel related? - I've been running the tank about 1/4 tank for a while since gas up here in the north is so much more expensive then i'm used to, so I filled it up to a little bit over 1/2 tank since i've heard of fuel pump related problems but don't know if this will do anything...then the only other thing I can think of is maybe Throttle (TB) issues? I've been having some brake issues where most of the problem ended up being the MC here http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/2002-2006-nissan-altima-discussion-2-5-3-5/281919-03-3-5-se-brake-fluid-level-drop.html
but the brakes aren't up to 100% power and everytime I hit the brakes unless I tap them lightly the rpms will jump up...again just throwing some possibilities but these could be unrelated...Car has been running great other than that so I have no idea why it would be doing this but I know I can't be the only one, this is on the 3.5 btw...I know some of the latter model sentra's did this a lot so I know there must be a fix...:confused:
 

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Any vacuum leaks?

When you rev it up, how high can you get the rpm? When my MAF took a shit the motor wouldn't rev past 1500-2000 rpm.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
hmm...interesting thing is when the vehicle is in park the engine wouldn't rev if I gave it like a little bit of gas it would just try and go up then go back down to where it would almost die like 200 rpm * struggling* this was the first time...then it got a little worse to where I would go and start the car it would die until I mash the pedal to rev the engine...in drive it would rev past 2000 rpm so I don't think it's in limp mode...thanks for your response
 

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Discussion Starter #4
*Cliffs: So..with my foot Off the gas as i start the car up it seems like its fine then as the idle goes to level out the rpm's drop and it dies, unless as i start it up i give it a little gas then the idle levels out and it seems to run fine. and some times if i rev the engine only in Park/Neutral instead of revving up the rpm as it goes to idle again it almost dies like rpms will drop real low like it's about to die (<200 rpm).
^
Anyone ever heard of this happening or experienced this??
 

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Altimer
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I had this happen to me a couple of years ago. The car would start then stall out right away unless I gave it a kick of gas. If I let it stall out then start it again it would idle fine. I took it to my mechanic and they changed the oil and gave it a fuel injection sevice - A PROPER FUEL INJECTION SERVICE - using an IV line and the proper equipment. My porblem was solved. In my case it seemed to be clogging injectors. Fuel injection drop in tank chemicals did nothing.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
^
Yea that's exactly what's happening. I'm running GC syn. oil and I just checked the oil level last week so thats fine...I do wonder about the fuel injectors though cause ever since we've had high gas prices I've never got on the car so I drive pretty normal or what I consider slow to get good gas mileage..
I also wonder if this is more common in a colder region since I'm right up here in the north and its the first time i've been up here with the car since the car is usually driven in hot climate weather...

So with that said...did your problem get progressively worse to where you'd have to start it multiple times or did it just stay the same?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Also I hope it's just dirty fuel injectors cause i've been told that the G/Z guys were having to change the TB or do a TB service or both that and something else fuel related IICRC...

Although now that I think about it my problem could be both since I was having brake/idle issues (mentioned above), it happened after I put my car in storage for a month could've been old fuel in there as well...
 

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Altimer
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I never let the problem progress that far, maybe a couple of weeks. This does not sound like a TB problem, although TB are relatively cheap - $100 rebuilt. Climate won't have much effect. My car has been fine since the FI service and I drive in what is considered severe climate in the owners manual. The FI service should be cheap - $50 - $75. That would be my first step if it were to happen to me again.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Alright i'll look into where they do a real FI service where it gets hooked-up to the machine around here...I forgot to post this yest. but about how many miles did this happen also? Mine is at about ~77K miles and did it ever stall/die after it was running and driving like in traffic?
That is one of the things kind of making me not want to go out & drive too much, afraid it will stall out in traffic & then won't be able to get it started again, then have it towed :thumbsdow...thanks.
 

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Altimer
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It happened around 75,000 miles. It never stalled after the initial stall. It never left me stranded, but I never let the problem persist so I can't tell you how long the stalling would continue without effecting everyday driving.
 

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ldgsmiley
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^
Anyone ever heard of this happening or experienced this??
Just started happening with my 2012. Has run great until a couple of days ago. Drove approx 10 miles. Took care of business, got in noticed gauge lights werent right. When I went to leave it felt ike it was in limp mode. Went back, couldnt kill it or put it into reverse. A friend unhooked battery, it died, started, drove home fine. Dash still off. Today it drove fine to grocery store and when I left it felt like it was in limp mode again but it quickly got up to speed. The ABS light is on, status gauge off but warning symbol on. Help please! :)
 

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Hi Everyone,

I had the same issue with a 2013 nissan altima. I would start the car and the car would initialize then start to get to idle at about 750 to 1K rpm and stall out. If I started while tapping the gas the vehicle would stay running and would not have the issue. The issue would happen intermittantly. I tried cleaning and replacing the maf sensor and verified that the snorkle hose had no debris and that the air filter was clean. After some time I was able to isolate the issue to be the failed throttle chamber. Thought I would post the fix since I have been searching forums and had not see a solution to at least the issue I was experiencing. I hope this helps someone else out there trying to diagnose the p0101 error code. Thank you
 

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Hello everyone this is my first time on this site. Looking for a little help with a problem I`m having with my 2006 Nissan Murano. I have having a stalling - erratic idle & erratic tachometer only after the car been heated up & driven it the heat of the day, cool weather no problem replaced both cam sensors & crank sensor = Problems only under heated conditions
 
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