1. 3/8 socket wrench with at least 12" extension
2. 10 mm socket , 12 mm socket, 14mm socket, 15/16, swivel extension
3. clutch master cylinder
4. pliers
5. pb/slick 50 etc...
6. 10mm wrench for hydraulic line screw
![Image]()
![Image]()
1. disconnect clutch fill cup two 10mm screws (no need take of bracket just cup)
![Image]()
2. locate clutch master cylinder on the inside of the brake master cylinder.
DONT PANIC when you see how far it is in there.
3. look under your dash and locate the clutch pedal and follow it all the way to the top until you see a small goldish retaining clip and gold pin holding the clutch master cylinder shaft to the pedal. REMOVE THE CLIP AND PIN
4. follow the master cyl shaft to the firewall you will see 2 - 12 mm screws
using your wrench/extension/12mm/swivel socket remove both screws.
5. get a 14mm socket and remove the windshield wipers
6. just under your windshield wipers is a black plastic cowl pull it up in he center and all the plastic fastners will pop up.
7.remove the windshield wiper motor and assembly 3 - 10mm screws disconnect pigtail.
![Image]()
8. Just under that is a fake me out strut tower brace just under your windshield wiper cowl. locate the 6-7 10mm screws and remove them. FakeSTB!
![Image]()
9. you should now clearly see the clutch master cylinder using a 10mm wrench remove the hydraulic line connected to the top of it.
![Image]()
![Image]()
10. remove the master cylinder and clutch fill together makes it easier to remove the clip holding the fill cup hose to the master cylinder. should look like this removed
![Image]()
11. install the new one connecting the retaining clip and pin the the clutch pedal first then tighten up the screws
![Image]()
you are basically done now. I suggest bleeding the clutch before you put everything back just to make sure the master cylinder works correctly.
Clutch bleeding 101
1. fill the clutch cup to the top. (you do not need to put the top back on the pressure that the dealer claims need to be there is BS! The way it works is once you depress the clutch the valve closes so no air will ever get in it. I posted this 2 years ago because i listened to the STEALERSHIP and i was totally wrong also so i apologize for the misinfo back them.
2. get a 15/16 socket (tiny) go to your clutch slave cylinder and unscrew the bleeder valve.
3. go back to the inside of the car and pump the clutch with your hand 3 times. pour brake fluid in the clutch cup then go back and pump it another 3 times. I suggest doing it a totall of three times just to make sure all air is out of the line.
4. on the last or third try when you push the clutch to the floor LEAVE IT TO THE FLOOR and go and close the bleeder valve. go back and pump the clutch after 3 pumps it should be extremely tight. Thats it your done.
now just put everything back together.
HELPFUL HINT. If ever you come into a situation when your master cylinder fails while driving or at a intersection or tractor trailor coming at you and it wont let you shift. Turn the car off and you can put the car into first without the clutch turn it back on and take the hell off
!
2. 10 mm socket , 12 mm socket, 14mm socket, 15/16, swivel extension
3. clutch master cylinder
4. pliers
5. pb/slick 50 etc...
6. 10mm wrench for hydraulic line screw
1. disconnect clutch fill cup two 10mm screws (no need take of bracket just cup)
2. locate clutch master cylinder on the inside of the brake master cylinder.
DONT PANIC when you see how far it is in there.
3. look under your dash and locate the clutch pedal and follow it all the way to the top until you see a small goldish retaining clip and gold pin holding the clutch master cylinder shaft to the pedal. REMOVE THE CLIP AND PIN
4. follow the master cyl shaft to the firewall you will see 2 - 12 mm screws
using your wrench/extension/12mm/swivel socket remove both screws.
5. get a 14mm socket and remove the windshield wipers
6. just under your windshield wipers is a black plastic cowl pull it up in he center and all the plastic fastners will pop up.
7.remove the windshield wiper motor and assembly 3 - 10mm screws disconnect pigtail.
8. Just under that is a fake me out strut tower brace just under your windshield wiper cowl. locate the 6-7 10mm screws and remove them. FakeSTB!
9. you should now clearly see the clutch master cylinder using a 10mm wrench remove the hydraulic line connected to the top of it.
10. remove the master cylinder and clutch fill together makes it easier to remove the clip holding the fill cup hose to the master cylinder. should look like this removed
11. install the new one connecting the retaining clip and pin the the clutch pedal first then tighten up the screws
you are basically done now. I suggest bleeding the clutch before you put everything back just to make sure the master cylinder works correctly.
Clutch bleeding 101
1. fill the clutch cup to the top. (you do not need to put the top back on the pressure that the dealer claims need to be there is BS! The way it works is once you depress the clutch the valve closes so no air will ever get in it. I posted this 2 years ago because i listened to the STEALERSHIP and i was totally wrong also so i apologize for the misinfo back them.
2. get a 15/16 socket (tiny) go to your clutch slave cylinder and unscrew the bleeder valve.
3. go back to the inside of the car and pump the clutch with your hand 3 times. pour brake fluid in the clutch cup then go back and pump it another 3 times. I suggest doing it a totall of three times just to make sure all air is out of the line.
4. on the last or third try when you push the clutch to the floor LEAVE IT TO THE FLOOR and go and close the bleeder valve. go back and pump the clutch after 3 pumps it should be extremely tight. Thats it your done.
now just put everything back together.
HELPFUL HINT. If ever you come into a situation when your master cylinder fails while driving or at a intersection or tractor trailor coming at you and it wont let you shift. Turn the car off and you can put the car into first without the clutch turn it back on and take the hell off
!
