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super primer mobile
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Discussion Starter #1
I replaced my clutch and it's still slipping, so I need to know what I could have possibly done wrong or not done so that I can get my car back up and running.

Please reply ASAP

BTW, I'm still around.........
 

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did you get the flywheel resurfaced as well?

there might be a tranny oil leak of some sort in there where the clutch is getting some glazing...other than that i have no clue :D
 

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1) Did you machine the flywheel?
Not machining the flywheel will cause a slip and could ruin a new clutch disc real fast.

2) Did you make sure everything was grease free?
Any dirt, grease, oil or other contaninent will cause a slip and could ruin the disc.

3) Are you sure the slave & master operating properly ( Not Sticking)

4) Is the clutch fork bent?
If it is it could cause the pressure plate to always be partially engaged.

If your positive none of these conditions exist you should probably take to a reputable shop.

Sink
 

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Was there oil on your old clutch? If so, maybe the main seal is leaking - and has now ruined your NEW clutch as well. Just a thought...

Good Luck,
 

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If it's still slipping, take it back to the shop asap! If you did it yourself, go through those questions posted above. Did you happen to do any adjustments to where the pedal engages/disengages? I've heard on here that there is very little play to work with. If this is so, then you or the mechanic may have set the pedal to where it doesn't completely engage the clutch.

(just so that I have this right, you disengage the clutch when you depress the pedal and you engage the clutch when you let off of it, right?)
 

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coach said:
(just so that I have this right, you disengage the clutch when you depress the pedal and you engage the clutch when you let off of it, right?)
That's right. Engaged/Disengaged has to do with the relationship of the clutch disk to the flywheel - not the clutch pedal.

Engaged = clutch plate "engaged" with the flywheel - firmly pressed against it by the pressure plate (pedal out). Power from the engine is transmitted to the transmission.

Disengaged = Clutch plate is disengaged from the flywheel - not touching it (pedal pushed in). Power from the engine is NOT transmitted to the transmission.
 

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So if I deep clutch and hold it down, like when I have to reverse, I'm not really wearing the cutch or flywheel, right?
 

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super primer mobile
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Discussion Starter #8
when I wrote the last message I was kinda pressed for time.

But here's the deal, I replaced the clutch myself followed the directions perfectly. But what happened was when I put everything back together and went for a test drive, I noticed that as I'm driving about 55 mph, and hit the gas to pass someone, the clutch would slip and leave me idling down. I did not bleed the brake system which is what everyone is telling me could be the problem, but I didn't think that would cause the car to slip during normal driving. So I don't know, should I bleed the brake system and go from there?? I'm just trying to get all possible solutions to the problem before I have to take the bellhousing back down. Because that thing is a b1tch.

Oh and my speedo and tach stopped working now so does anyone know if that's just a connector or something internal. I don't want to go in and look for it in the manual, just off hand if you know let me know, if not, don't hurt yourself trying to find out, because neither my altima or my honda has a speedo at this point in time.

Let me know something before I go trade this thing in for something else.
 

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coach said:
So if I deep clutch and hold it down, like when I have to reverse, I'm not really wearing the cutch or flywheel, right?
That's right... the only thing you're wearing at that point is the throwout bearing... but that's what it's for.

The clutch plate and flywheel only wear when they rub against each other at different speeds - when the clutch is partially engaged. If the clutch is fully engaged, the clutch plate and flywheel are one - and turn at the same speed. If the clutch is fully disengaged, the clutch plate and flywheel aren't touching at all (or not enough to matter). No wear. It's when the clutch is partially engaged (pedal halfway out) when the wear occurs - like when you're taking off from a stop - or ESPECIALLY if you sit on a hill and hold the car still by letting the clutch part-way out - or use it to rock back and forth. DON'T DO THAT!!! My sister used to eat clutches alive this way... not matter how much I told her not to. Some people are just better off driving automatics. She is one of them. :)
 

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Thanks man! I always thought I knew about how the clutch works but I never really got all of it straight. Yeah, my concern was that when I fully depress the clutch pedal I was putting wear on it. Since I have to back into my parking spot at work and at home, and with this snow and ice we have, I thought I was killing it. I've always fully depressed the clutch too, even before I got the ACT S/S.
 

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super primer mobile
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Discussion Starter #12
yeah I meant bleeding the clutch, I always confuse that.

But I ended up dropping it off with someone but thanks for everything.
 

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Well, coach, as far as I know, when you keep the pedal pressed down for a while, you're wearing out the throwout bearing... I know pvick has done quite a bit of posting about that in the 3rd gen forums, you may want to check it out.
 

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I guess so, but I really don't know what goes into the process of replacing the throwout bearing. Either way, just don't hold the clutch down when you don't need to (like keeping it in 1st at stop lights), but otherwise you should be fine. I can't imagine that holding your clutch down while in reverse will make too much of a difference.
 

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No I don't really hold it in all that much. Primarily when in reverse and turning I push it down more and kinda roll instead of being under power. It's not like an auto where you can ride the brakes.
 

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Hey - great discussion!
Everything is covered I have nothing else to add or disagree with.
Keep up the good work!
 
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