The Nissan Club banner

1 - 5 of 5 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
My car will start and rev up to 2-3000rpm then it dies. I have a code 21 and it says it's ignition signal in my haynes manual. But I have no idea what it could be, anyone have any ideas what that means?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Looks like there is oil in cylinder #4 , I'm hoping its just the valve cover gasket needing to be replaced. I'm replacing it now but I figured I'd paint it before putting it back together, so I'll have an update tomorrow. I'm hoping its causing the crazy revving up and then stalling *fingers crossed*
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,212 Posts
Not helping yourself out there, you could be driving a tricycle for all we know. 2 digit trouble codes ended some 30 years ago.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Not helping yourself out there, you could be driving a tricycle for all we know. 2 digit trouble codes ended some 30 years ago.
I posted this question in the 1993-2001 nissan altimas, so pretty sure you should know I'm not driving a tricycle. It's a 1994 nissan atliman, OBD I ECU, the code is 21, Ignition signal
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,212 Posts
No insult intended but you always help yourself out by bringing up the exact car immediately. You could easily be working on another car of the same model but different.

Surprised at the code there, most OEMs went to 3 digit to further delineate fault differences in like '90, Nissan slow to the table.

Ignition signal may well be pointing at any crank or cam sensor there as the ignition must have a marker to be able to be set up by the ECM and those sensors are what provide that. Secondarily, if the ECM requires after-the-fact proof of ignition then it may monitor the coil firing and will likely be tied to those wires in that case. Depends kinda on if there is a standalone ignition module doing the coil switching or if the ECM itself does it. In that case the plugs bathed in oil may be shorting out over the external porcelain and that could deliver a low spark message. I've cured it before by simply cleaning up the mess and reusing the same plugs after cleaning the glass really good on them, car went back to running fine. You may need to change any rubber on the end of plug leads, the oil permeates it to perpetuate the spark continuing to jump down the side of plug. In my case I simply clipped the rubber off a bit short to make it above where the oil level had been, the rubber is nice to have all the way down but not 100% strictly needed. It saved $30 doing that and what I was after.
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Top