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Discussion Starter #1
I just changed the water pump and now the temp gauge shows normal yet the motor is getting hot and the heater blows cold air. If this is a mater of bleeding air from the cooling system, how do I do that? Could it be somthing else? Thanks for any help.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply. What does it usually mean? Or what could it mean? By the way there is no water in the oil as far as I can tell and the motor seems to run ok.
 

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well take it to a emchanic and try not to drive it as much, it could be somethign reasl stupid or soemthign real serious, get it checked out immediatly
 

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two things. check the thermostat, and more importantly, check the hot water valve. if the cable isnt connected, then your problem is obvious. if it IS connected, it could be the vaccum connection between the slide switch and the cable actuator.
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
problem solved

I learned something I think is worth sharing. I kept searching this forum (it is HUGE) and when I used "bleed" as a key word I found what I was looking for. Under the distributor, near the thermostat, is a small 10mm plug that has a warning sticker nearby that says "do not open when engine is hot". This is the "bleed plug". I took it out and nothing happend, I started the engine, and omly a little steam came out. I cut the engine and let it cool some, I never did let it get REAL hot. I then removed the upper radiator hose from the radiator and blew into it till coolant came out, and replaced the plug. It worked! The system now works as it should. What bothers me is that the Chilton repair manual I use for info on changing the water pump made no mention of this plug and as the temp guage showed no problem this could have been a Big problem. I guess hot air fools the engine temp sending unit, and without hot water making contact with it the thremostat wont open. Now I know. At least I think I do. Does this make sense?
 

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Yes it makes sense...

But you do NOT have to remove the upper radiator hose. In the Haynes manual they say:
-with the engine completly cool, and the heater temperature control lever on the MAXIMUM HEAT(solid red bar) position, remove the radiator cap
-with a rag under it, now loosen and remove the air bleed bolt under the distributor
-pour coolant mixture in the radiator until you have a continuous stream comming out of the air bleed hole-no more air bubbles.
-replace the bolt immediately, and fill the rest of the radiator if necessary.
-start the engine and let it reach normal opperating temp, then turn it off, let it cool and check the level of coolant in the radiator-refill as necessary to the fillerneck.
-after a day or two of driving check it again and bring all the levels-including in the expansion bottle to the recomended levels.
Good luck, H.
 

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you know, thats another example of how things get taken for granted. good fix. its worth mentioning, as a reminder, that your sensors do not work when they are dry. they have to have that liquid around them. youll never forget that valve again huh? lol
 

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Long live the Altima
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Re: Yes it makes sense...

While doing the bleeding steps you described below, I'm assuming you do all that while the engine is off?




Horatio said:
But you do NOT have to remove the upper radiator hose. In the Haynes manual they say:
-with the engine completly cool, and the heater temperature control lever on the MAXIMUM HEAT(solid red bar) position, remove the radiator cap
-with a rag under it, now loosen and remove the air bleed bolt under the distributor
-pour coolant mixture in the radiator until you have a continuous stream comming out of the air bleed hole-no more air bubbles.
-replace the bolt immediately, and fill the rest of the radiator if necessary.
-start the engine and let it reach normal opperating temp, then turn it off, let it cool and check the level of coolant in the radiator-refill as necessary to the fillerneck.
-after a day or two of driving check it again and bring all the levels-including in the expansion bottle to the recomended levels.
Good luck, H.
 

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There is an airpocket in the cooling system. Bleed it out but the 10mm screw under the distributor. Or...or if that doesnt work, remove one of the heater core hoses and let the air out there till a steady stram of coolant pours out of it. Make sure the front of the car is tipped up to about 30 degrees front up. Trust me I have seen it a million times with customers that changle their own coolant but forget to bleed the system.
 

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Re: Re: Yes it makes sense...

moe__man said:
While doing the bleeding steps you described below, I'm assuming you do all that while the engine is off?
Yes Moe_man, the engine should be off untill the 5th step in my post where it says " -start the engine and let it reach normal opperating temp, then turn it off, let it cool and check the level of coolant in the radiator-refill as necessary to the fillerneck."

If you're not 110% sure how to go about this, it would be best to get a Haynes/Chilton manual or something similar (*you know you can get them at your local library for FREE if you do not want to shell the cash for them-just do not go there 5 min before starting to work on the car and expect to find a copy readily available-planning ahead is the key word here*) and follow the steps described in the book one by one, because an airpocket in your cooling system can create a hotspot that could eventually REALLY mess-up your engine if you drive it like that, even for a relatively short time.
H.
 

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also while its running, squeez the upper rad hose every now and then to help force the rest of the air out. just because all the air is out from the bleed screw, doesnt mean ALL of it is out. all the while keeping the rad. topped off.
 
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