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I am new to this site but I just purchased a 2013 Altima and form the looks on this forum I made a mistake getting this car cause a week after driving it I notice a buzzing/ vibration noise and no one can tell me what it is and it is only getting worse idk why to do
 

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I am new to this site as well. I bought my 2013 Altima 2.5 S new in April of 2013. I am currently at 55752 miles. Was working fine until I started it one day. When trying to accelerate, it jerked pretty roughly like I was hitting the brake. Once I got up to speed it was good, but when slowing down, it tried jerking forward and when I was stopped, the car just died. Turned back on fine but once back into D, did it again. So fortunate I was right next to the Nissan Dealer. Got it there luckily. They drove it and it did the same thing. The stated no codes were thrown and that they were just going to replace the transmission. That happened on the 14th of December and I got it back today (21st of December) with a new transmission. Fortunately still under power-train warranty.

The only issue I had with the power-train before this was when my brake switches went bad and caused my car to go into "limp" mode when I braked to a complete stop or took corners.
 

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2016 TEANA 3.5 SL
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207 Posts
sup.

2015 Altima (S) here.

CVT issues, i think.. I would try to accelerate but nothing would happen. I would have to press the pedal like twice to get it moving. or restart the car.

Moving the shifter to "sports" doesn't help either. However, the OverDrive button still works and I would get a decent amount of power.

It's weird because when I first drove the car, everything was fine and dandy. That was three months ago.

But ever since I pulled some Relays to check if the car had a Flasher Relay, the car wasn't normal. No power.

Idk. I guess I'm not going to sleep right, ever.
 

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2016 TEANA 3.5 SL
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207 Posts
What relays did you remove? Most have been moved into the IPDM and other computers/modules. Was a relearn needed?
The relays that were in the the engine bay. Driver side area. I removed all of it and see if my flasher relay I bought from the internet would fit, (I really should've done some research about that flasher relay thing on this vehicle first..)

As for the "Relearn", i. have. no. idea.
ugh, now i gotta google that term.
 

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pic

Let's try this again. Web site stalled first time when trying to upload the pic.

So, wires in here got disturbed. Gotta find and re-seat, right?

Did I see another post here for same car where tail light is backwards too? Did that start after messing with the fuse box and IPDM?
 

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2016 TEANA 3.5 SL
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207 Posts
Let's try this again. Web site stalled first time when trying to upload the pic.

So, wires in here got disturbed. Gotta find and re-seat, right?

Did I see another post here for same car where tail light is backwards too? Did that start after messing with the fuse box and IPDM?
So the relays I messed around with were the brown, black and blue one. The relays in that compartment to the left of the IPDM. I haven't checked the IPDM yet to see if any fuses are blown.
After I plugged the relays back in, the car started fine but I wasn't paying attention to the acceleration or the way I was pressing the gas.
The relays that i tampered with might be the culprit. I'm not sure tho.

Yeah my taillight socket blew out so I had to change it. But with a brand new bulb, the light still doesn't want to brake. It turns on but doesn't brake.
 

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second tranny going at 92k. first one went a 60k and dealer wants $4,500 to replace it. so i can expect another 32k miles for $4,500??? F THAT!!! so pissed right now.
 

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second tranny going at 92k. first one went a 60k and dealer wants $4,500 to replace it. so i can expect another 32k miles for $4,500??? F THAT!!! so pissed right now.
Sorry man, what did you end up doing...Sell it, get a used one from a junkyard, or go with the new one they quoted you at? You do a lot of city driving or red line it a lot? Wonder if the way these cars are driven really affects the tranny's life expectancy. Thanks.
 

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My transmission is starting to make some funny sounds and I may need to finally bring it in. Had been lucky since 2012. I have the Extended Coverage through Santa Rosa. But I had heard that one of the outs that they have is not keeping up with Nissan's official maintenance schedule at their dealerships, which are expensive. Is that still true? I routinely get my oil changed and have changed air filters myself to avoid paying for all that crap.
 

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DisgruntledOwner Advocate
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Got rid of the accord

I'm glad things worked out ok for you. Good luck with your Accord. The Accord is a great car. I was down to an Accord and an Altima before buying the Altima.
After 70k miles i dumped the accord for a new C300. Accord never cost a cent other than gas as I got free oil changes from the dealer.

I also upgraded to a new wife :)

Peace!
 

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Purchased 2013 2.5 S with 50k mi. No issues to speak of for 18 months since (maybe some slight jerkiness during acceleration, but nothing alarming for a CVT).

Now at 75k mi. Received recall notice for TCM update this month, so took it into the dealer two weeks ago for that, thinking I'd be proactive. Lo and behold, a week later, I start getting severe judder at times when first putting the car into D/R and at stops.

Has anyone experienced the CVT stalling during severe judder? This has now happened to me three times in the past week at stops. Coasting to a stop at a light today, car starts bucking, then battery light illuminates, followed by engine light and car stalls. Had to restart the engine twice with traffic lined up behind me before I could judder my way into a nearby parking lot. After restarting engine, the check engine light disappears - and then I'll have no significant problems for another 20-30 miles (including at highway speeds).

Was able to get a full scan from a local mechanic (not the dealer who performed the "update") - apparently I'm throwing P17F1, which sounds like I'm headed for an out-of-warranty valve replacement at minimum, and possibly the whole CVT. Fabulous.
 

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I got the new firmware NTB15-014B back in November when I had the hard shudder. There was immediate improvement in the car after the update. Took the car in this month for an oil change and they found code P17F1. The service advisor asked me if I was experiencing shudder at this time and I told him no so he notated the receipt that they found the transmission code but nothing was done because because I did not report shudder. WTF! :surprise

jimhadr; My dealer did the TSB update to the transmission, TSB #NTB15-014b and reprogrammed the TCM (Transmission Control Module?). The test drive then showed the shudder (Judder) problem which on my car was P17F1. They have ordered the transmission control valve assy. and should do the work sometime this week.

The car is running much better. There is still a very slight, very intermittent shudder but nothing like what it has been.
 

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Had the CVT replaced on my Altima 2 weeks ago, have been noticing the transmission dragging while coasting on the highway to under 20mph when in slow traffic. It kind of feels like the engine braking is kicking in, as if I was going down a hill. The annoying part is when I accelerate, it hesitates forward a little bit, as if it's "snapping out" of the engine braking. And it's basically this back & forth for 3-5 miles of traffic every day since getting the new CVT replaced.

Anyone else experience this?
 
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