[mrbrace]

Awesome writeup man I am getting right on this cause mine is bucking and shuttering. I think I will replace the camshaft sensor as well since the parts are only 38 and they are the same part. Where is the camshaft sensor located? I know its easier to get to than the crankshaft sensor.

 

[mrbrace]

Nah, I'd save a few bucks and just wait til your car shows symptoms of the issue rather than doing it as preventative maintenence. I did the precat header change too for preventative but the senors failing won't cause your engine to blow so I wouldn't worry about the sensors too much. IMO of course.

 

[mrbrace]

Okay, I am almost done with this replacement.

First, my sensor head is backwards and the clip has to go on the other way...which is good in a sense because it clears a path to put the bolt back on without the clip being in the way.

Second, I cannot for the life of me get the sensor to clip back into the harness. It wants to go and I have pushed it together til my hands are absolutely raw and it will not clip back on. Is there a secret way or a different way I can try? I have tried pinching the clip and sliding it back on as well.

Thanks

 

[mrbrace]

Nevermind, I bought an Irwin Quick Grip from Lowes and got it put together real fast and without crushing it.

Question now is, I have tried to clear my check engine light twice and it clears it but then when I start my car it comes back on after about 5 seconds of the car starting. I wonder if its because its a new style sensor or something to that effect??? Hmmm...

I do notice however while driving it that it shifts easier and the RPMs are much smoother than before. I am pretty sure its working just fine and I was very carful not to bend the pins inside the sensor that connects to the harness.

Maybe the dealer or my mechanic can clear the code or keep it from coming up???

 

[mrbrace]

Hey thanks for the advice but I did the ECU reset on technosquares website and it made it go away.... yeah!

 

[mrbrace]

NOTE: make sure when you buy a new cam or crank position sensor, you buy it from the dealer. There is a strong possibility that an aftermarket sensor you buy could be and older version of the sensor that hasnt been revised yet due to the OEMs not letting third party vendors see the original designs for parts. My new sensor that I just changed a few months ago looks exactly like the new sensor, but it does NOT work properly forcing me to go to the dealership today to pick up another one and swap it out yet again. its not too much more from the dealer, and in most cases will probably be cheaper than a parts store anyway. Just a little bit of advice.


OP if you're out there, could you edit your first post to include this? it's a good piece of information to give to everyone else to save them from the same headache I had.

Good pics by the way,... this thing is in such an anal spot, I swear.....

I'm gonna have to sorta disagree with you there...you see, if you have the right part number you should be just fine going to a part store and ordering it. I did just that, and mine is completely fine, sure it was different than the old part but it works right? Absolutely. If going to the dealer makes one feel more 'safe' in knowing they got the right part...more power to you. I however, like to save a few bux. :shift: