The Nissan Club banner
1 - 20 of 192 Posts

·
Carbon Meet Amber
Joined
·
3,094 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Well, part 1 of my trunk brace project is now done.

This afternoon I picked up the necessary hardware for this first part of my trunk bracing project. Install was cake and if you can install a FSTB you can install this bar with no problem at all. For those that have no clue what I am talking about, last weekend I started reading up on chassis bracing, specifically the trunk and rear suspension. For more information on this, http://www.nissanclub.com/forums/ge...ounge-general-discussion-152.html#post4162183.

As per usual, I am not responsible for any damage caused to your car or person while attempting this modification. This serves only as a guide to complete this project.

Parts needed:

-2 8-1.25 50mm bolts, (I used 40 mm and had to bend part of the pass through to get the bar on).
-2 8-1.25 hex nuts
-2 5/16"-1 1/4" rubber fender washers
-4 8mm washers
-eBay FSTB
-Razor blade
-Flathead screwdriver
-12mm socket wrench
-Needle nose pliers, (If 40mm bolts are used)

For this project I utilized existing bolt locations to make this as basic and user friendly as possible. For those with a sub-woofer enclosure this may effect how your box rests next to the rear seat pass through. When this project is complete you will be unable to use a typical MDF enclosure if you follow everything as I have done and will do.

Ever since I bought my 2nd gen and realized that a 1st gen FSTB does not bolt up I've been looking for a way to re-purpose this bar. I have finally found a way to. This project uses only the actual bar and attached eye bolts. You may use the supplied brackets but you may have to cut them and you will be required to drill into the sheet metal surrounding the rear pass through.

The first thing you are going to want to do once you have all the necessary hardware and parts is to fold your rear seats down and remove the plastic trim as well as the grommet that secures the rear seat carpet to the trim. Do so with a Flathead screwdriver being careful not to break them.

Once the left, right, and center portions are removed set them aside. You will now remove the bolt that secures the rear seat latches to the sheet metal. These are 12mm bolts and should break free with minimal effort. Replace each of these bolts with your new longer ones. These will be used to mount the bar to the car.



If you used the 50mm bolts you can now re-install the plastic trim. If not, leave it off, you'll need to cut a small section out of each later on.

Next, open your trunk lid and climb inside facing the rear deck. Be sure to keep your hardware, socket, and razor blade close by since space can be rather tight during this process.

Feel around on the trunk carpet for the new bolt you just installed. Once you have found it apply pressure to it through the carpet and cut a small slit to allow it to pass through. Now take one of your fender washers followed by one of your stainless steel washers and push them all the way to the end of the bolt pushing the carpet back securely as you go. Do this to both sides being careful not to cut yourself. It may take multiple scores with the razor to cut through.

Once you have both bolts showing through it's time to mount the bar. This is where your install will differ from mine. Since my bolts were only 40mm long the bar could not mount straight due to the sheet metal surrounding the pass through. If you used the 40mm keep reading, if you used the 50mm skip to the next paragraph. To solve this issue I took a pair of needle nose pliers and bent the offending sheet metal back towards the strut towers on the interior side of the car.

To mount the bar I extended the threads on each end a little at a time making sure not to extend one side to much at a time. Once you have the correct length make sure to lock it in using the nuts on each end of the bar. Then simply hold the bar up, and using another washer and nut mount the bar to each side with your 12mm socket being careful not to tighten down one side to much at a time.

Once again, if you used the 50mm bolts you are now done, pack up your tools. If you used the 40mm bolts you will need to cut the left and right sides of the plastic trim to allow them to sit flush where the bar runs across the trunk.

Looking in from the trunk:


Looking back from the front seats:


If you look closely you can see where I had to bend the sheet metal to allow the bar to sit flat.

Congratulations, you've now hopefully successfully completed the first part of the trunk brace.

Better pictures will be uploaded tomorrow in the day light.
 

·
Not Another Altima...
Joined
·
693 Posts
niceee, do you think it matters what ebay brand i get, like i assume there a couple no names brands out there on ebay. You used a 1st gen bar correct? Also what performance gains have you noticed?
This looks like something i can do haha and i don't think it would interfere with my sub as u cautioned it might lol so yee! GG
 

·
Carbon Meet Amber
Joined
·
3,094 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
niceee, do you think it matters what ebay brand i get, like i assume there a couple no names brands out there on ebay. You used a 1st gen bar correct? Also what performance gains have you noticed?
This looks like something i can do haha and i don't think it would interfere with my sub as u cautioned it might lol so yee! GG
When I originally bought this bar years ago there were 2 different bar styles. Now it seems as though there is only the 1 style which is similar to the bar I already had.

Like I said before, if you can install a FSTB you can install this bar.

The comment about the subs was meant as a pre caution for those with them. Since eventually I will be incorporating a floor brace and connect the two in an "X" shape.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,527 Posts
Good shit Stanza! Get some daylight pics when you can.

I think the only Ebay brace made for 1st gens was that flat brace, but if not that is probably the one you'd want to use right?
 

·
Carbon Meet Amber
Joined
·
3,094 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Good shit Stanza! Get some daylight pics when you can.

I think the only Ebay brace made for 1st gens was that flat brace, but if not that is probably the one you'd want to use right?
Daytime pics will be up tomorrow. Along with driving impressions ;)

I remember reading through Deranged's RSTB write-up and him mentioning that there were two different style bars at the time. But yea, the "flat" one is the one I'd prefer to use.
 

·
Not Another Altima...
Joined
·
693 Posts
or maybe there could be a redlion brace we could use :wall:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
403 Posts
Cool project.
Will be watching and waiting for your driving impressions.
Looks like an easy install - hope you can feel a difference.

Do you have the green rear sway bar as well?
 

·
Carbon Meet Amber
Joined
·
3,094 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
^Lol oh there will be one...sooner than you guys think!
But, I encourage DIY, after all it's what makes these cars special.
So it seems as though I've peaked your interest in bracing. And thanks for the support and putting up with all my questions.

Cool project.
Will be watching and waiting for your driving impressions.
Looks like an easy install - hope you can feel a difference.

Do you have the green rear sway bar as well?
See the next post for my review.
 

·
Carbon Meet Amber
Joined
·
3,094 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So, between going to work this morning, and then running errands after work it's safe to say there are some definite benefits with this bar in place. The whole back end feels tighter around gentle corner. When even slightly pushing it around a bend it feels like there is less roll and the back end stays more level. Believe it or not I found this extremely evident when going over speed bumps. Prior to this you can feel the back end flex when you go over a speed bump at an angle. With this in place the back end seems to stay more neutral.

For those wondering if this will make a difference without supporting mods. I can definitively say, yes. If I can feel this big of a difference with all of the suspension modifications I have in place, which already stiffen up the back end, than your average Joe Schmo will notice it more so. For those wondering, my current suspension mods are as follows,

Suspension/Braking/Wheels:
Motegi MR-7 16x7 Gunmetal Rims
BF Goodrich Super Sport A/S tires
Tokico Blue Struts
H&R Lowering Springs 1.5/1.3
Racingline front and rear endlinks
Suspension Techniques Rear Sway Bar
Whiteline Australian Front Sway Bar
Energy Suspension Lower Control Arm Bushings
Energy Suspension Front and Rear Sway Bar Bushings
Vibrant Performance Front Strut Tower Bar
RT Performance Cross Drilled and Slotted Rotors with ceramic pads
RT Performance Stainless Steel Brake Lines
Liquid-Ink Lower Control Arm Brace

Pending Install:
Red Lion Racing Nylatron Engine Sub-frame Bushings with aluminum spacers
Red Lion Racing Nylatron Radiator Crossmember Bushings with aluminum spacers
Red Lion Racing Nylatron Rear Trailing Arm Bushings
Red Lion Racing Nylatron Rear Knuckle Bushings
Racingline Race Series Motor Mount Inserts

And as promised, better shots of the bar installed.

Full shot, trunk side:


Close up of the mounting:
 

·
Not Another Altima...
Joined
·
693 Posts
so it's a stiffing up of the rear and keeps left and right side in sync or aligned (however you wanna describe it)? does it act similar to what a rear strut bar would do?
 

·
Still #1 in 2017
Joined
·
2,360 Posts
I remember seeing one of these on a Maxima and thought about just how much of an effect this really has. I couldn't figure out if it had any. The car drove the same, handled the same.

Now... if you went and did an X brace, now that would help a shit-ton.

Sexy..
 

·
Carbon Meet Amber
Joined
·
3,094 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I remember seeing one of these on a Maxima and thought about just how much of an effect this really has. I couldn't figure out if it had any. The car drove the same, handled the same.

Now... if you went and did an X brace, now that would help a shit-ton.
http://www.elephantracing.com/suspension/strutbrace/935xbrace800.jpg[ /IMG]
Sexy..[/quote]

That's all planned out already. I've got another bar coming in the mail that I'm gonna use as a floor brace and then when that is installed I'm gonna link the two with cables to form the "X" brace. It should prove to be an interesting project. If the B13 Sentra's can have all this aftermarket for suspension I don't see why we can't learn from them. After all they have the same suspension set-up that we do, just in a smaller body.

[QUOTE="Garlic_Sauce, post: 4163749, member: 114840"]Very cool. You better patent this now before it's up on EBAY for $50 ;)[/quote]

All it would take would a vendor putting "Trunk Style Brace" in the ad to get around a patent of any kind. Hence why you need to be careful about what you purchase on eBay.

[QUOTE="Natethagreat, post: 4163742, member: 92826"]so it's a stiffing up of the rear and keeps left and right side in sync or aligned (however you wanna describe it)? does it act similar to what a rear strut bar would do?[/quote]

Exactly. I think a RSTB would only help this style of brace. After all there will always be a weak spot. I'm holding out on that though and hoping Red Lion comes out with his sooner rather than later.
 

·
Carbon Meet Amber
Joined
·
3,094 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Well, it turns out the plastic trim pieces do not have to be cut if you use a 40mm bolt. They are just an extremely tight fit. What I did was loosen the nuts holding the bar in place enough to slide and maneuver the plastic pieces back into place and once they were snapped back in I re-tightened the brace.




Also, I ordered the other FSTB last night and it should be here by the 10th at the latest.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
50 Posts
That's all planned out already. I've got another bar coming in the mail that I'm gonna use as a floor brace and then when that is installed I'm gonna link the two with cables to form the "X" brace. It should prove to be an interesting project. If the B13 Sentra's can have all this aftermarket for suspension I don't see why we can't learn from them. After all they have the same suspension set-up that we do, just in a smaller body.
Cant wait to see how this turns out.
 

·
Carbon Meet Amber
Joined
·
3,094 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Part 2

Well due to inclement weather up here in the NE for the past week or so this project was on hold. However yesterday we had decent weather so we were able to install the second bar.

For this part of the brace you will need. . .
-1st gen eBay FSTB
-4 10-1.25 40mm bolts
-2 10-1.25 hex nuts
-4 10mm lock washers
-small breaker bar (optional)
-razor blade
-PB Blaster/WD 40 (optional)
-flat head screwdriver
-14mm socket
-14mm box wrench
-punch (optional)
-hammer (optional)
-1/2" drill bit and drill

First things first. For this brace you will be drilling into your trunk floor and you will be removing frame rail bolts. Do NOT remove both frame rail bolts at the same time. If you do the frame may shift slightly taking the holes out of alignment. Attach one bracket at a time and don't be afraid to use some WD 40 or PB Blaster on the frame rail bolts as they are torqued rather tightly. I did not know how long the bolts would need to be so to be safe I bought 60mm bolts, but as is evident they are more than long enough.

So, first things first, empty out your trunk of any contents or if you feel that unnecessary, roll the carpet up and out of the way. On either side of the trunk you will see 4 black caps. These caps simply pop off with a flat-head screwdriver. Underneath these caps are the 4 frame rail bolts.

I removed the one farther forward on each side, but you may choose to remove the rear most one. Taking your 14mm socket and your breaker bar remove one of the bolts. Then take your penetrating oil of choice and spray down the bolt hole. The threads are probably rusted and the oil will help the new bolt to follow the threads. Once you've sprayed it down take the FSTB bracket for the corresponding side and install it as well as your new longer hardware. Repeat this step for the other side.

Once both brackets are installed and they are straight take a punch and hammer and mark where bolts 3 and 4 will be installed. Now using your 1/2" drill bit drill straight down and through. If you do not drill straight it will cause the brackets to turn slightly when you bolt them down.

Drivers Side:

Passenger Side:


Now take your bolts and drop them through your drilled holes and climb underneath and thread the nuts onto the end of them. Here's where having a friend handy will be helpful since to torque the bolts down you will need to hold the box wrench down on the nut and it is a very awkward angle to reach by yourself.

Drivers Side:

Passenger Side:


Note my rotted out exhaust shield. This will have to be removed to gain access to this bolt if yours is still intact.

Once all 4 bolts are snug tight torque them down fully and reinstall the carpet. Now like you did in part 1 press down on the carpet and taking your razor blade make a slit for the bracket to poke through. Then adjust the bar for length and install it remembering to use the lock nuts on each end of the bar to lock it in place.

That's it. Your rear trunk floor brace is now installed. Total install time was about an hour or so with having all of the tools handy. After driving around with it last night and this morning the back end seems to rattle less and seems to be a bit firmer. I would say the improvement is on par with the first brace I installed which was in between the two rear strut towers.

Bar installed without carpet:


As you can see. The spare is still fully accessible with this brace installed.

Bar installed over the carpet:


And once again, as you can see this brace takes up very little room in the trunk still leaving it useful and for those with sub's this install will not hinder them at all.
 

·
Vitamin L30
Joined
·
252 Posts
Wow, these are beautiful. Custom, nice looking, unobtrusive, cheap. I thought I was finished building my car, but now i really want to do one or both of these.
 
1 - 20 of 192 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top