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Steelie Crew Member #001
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1,106 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Well 5 weeks ago there was a huge rain storm. I hit a puddle and I`m assuming water got into my CAI and drownd the engine.

Car started to studder and then nothing... after 5 minutes or so of trying to start it it finally got going. studdering like woah. then died again, but in a curbe. Lost power steering and couldn`t control the car. I spun out and hit the wall...

After getting the car fixed by the insurance. I pick it up today. Turn it on and it throws a CEL at me. We disconnected teh battery and reconnected and it still be there...

I want to know is this. How long should I disconnect the battery to reset teh ECU? And if it is water damage. What should I do? Change the plugs and oil? I have to do the oil anyways so I`ll be doing that tomorrow.

Any help would be great...
 

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Rockin the Le Bra
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1,016 Posts
have u tried resetting it via the screw on the ECU? your lucky you didnt hydrolock. replace the plugs, wires and oil. I remember when i got caught in a flood and my engine sucked up water. i just removed the plugs and cranked it till all the water spewed out the plug holes and the car ran fine again after an hour of white smoke. it only ran in 1st gear for the first 15 minutes too.
 

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Steelie Crew Member #001
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1,106 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
to add to my post...

it drives fine right now, no white smoke either. I don`t even need to crank more then usual. Just the damn CEL... I`ll try the ecu reet tomorrow.

Just to understand the steps to drain the water...

Change oil. remove plugs *from the wires themselves or just from the block. then crank a few times. Then put plugs back in and give her again?

I really happy I didn`t hydrolock it, but really damn worried about the CEL...
 

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Rockin the Le Bra
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1,016 Posts
well if your car has been running already, i dont think you need to take out the plugs to drain the water out of the cyllinders. i did that after i towed my car home because my car didnt want to start at all, and i didnt want to run the risk of breaking a connecting rod by forcing the pistons up against water in the cylinder. you should change the oil though along with your plugs and your wires if you want.

oh and to get the water out of the cylinders, you remove the plugs from the head so that the water is forced out through the plug holes.
 

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Registered
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78 Posts
I had water get into my engine after one storm and I think it was due to water getting sucked into my altima via CAI which doesnt have a bypass and it displayed similar symptoms of studdering there after, but the car didnt die out.
So what remedied this particular problem for my altima during this particular situation at the time was:
I checked my sparkplugs and found them to be damp so I figured water definately got in the engine.
I took the old spark plugs out and used a heat gun to attempt to dry out any water or dampness in the holes where the spark plugs go in and then installed new spark plugs.
Drained out my engine oil and took out my oil filter and then refilled and replaced them in an attempt to drain out any water left in the engine.
Then finally started my engine again and my car was running fine. I dont know if you have the exact same problem that i did and im not telling you that this method i used will work on your altima the way it did on mine nor post this reply as a method to fix this problem, but i hope it points you in the right direction to look for the solution. =D
 

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22 Posts
I have a similiar problem myself. Changed the oil and filter took the plugs out, tried to crank it over to get the water out but the damn battery is dead now. How do I go about resetting the ECU? What do you mean by hydrolock?
 
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3,250 Posts
i had the same problem yesterday and i got all the water out of my exhaust system and my plugs but now when i start up the car it just dies after 2 seconds having the service engine light on. i don't know if it is the MAF sensor that is shot or what but i'm going to get my car towed into nissan w/ the stock air box back in the car.
 

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Auto Tech
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4,743 Posts
take it to autozone, they do a CEL test for free, and they'll tell you exactly what codes you have, and they'll reset them too for ya
 

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donor cycle
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14,572 Posts
you can reset your ECU at the ECU.

I would pop the distributor cap and check for water corrosion on the contacts and the contact on the rotor cap. For future reference when your engine is misfiring or acting up due to getting wet, pop the distributor cap and spray WD-40 in it. It displaces the water and clears all the misfiring up.
 
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