I'm posting this on behalf of its owner. I've maintained the vehicle from the first day of ownership and know its entire history. Two Owners, clean history. Purchased in 2012 with about 15k on the odo at Carmax from the original owner (salesperson).

It'll make a good project car or donor car. If you have any specific questions just ask. I've tried to include useful detail off the top of my head.

Price is OBO and there is no need to rush the car out the door. If an offer interests the Owner the car will be sold, either here or on other platforms.
  • Car Runs: Starts fine, but the entire vehicle is in a limp mode and it will not move under its own power. ECM is limiting both torque and rate of throttle, as well as capping the RPM
  • First Owner: Friend who sold it 2 years old, ~15k odo
  • Second Owner: The current owner of 10 years
  • VIN/Carfax: Clean
  • Title: Free & Clear, no lien
  • Crashes: None
  • Purpose: Primarily commute locally for work, and travel around the country
  • Odometer: 206,975 (as they say, mostly highway)
  • Problem: Long story short, it appears something blew out the pieces of the CAN -- maybe just needs new modules, maybe it's just a wire somewhere, no specific idea. I wrote some more on this at the bottom.
  • Engine: Runs fine, no mechanical issues. Oil changed about 1,000 miles before car died. Valve covers began seeping oil last year, not a "leak" though, gasket needs replacing
  • Cooling: Flawless, new Oil Cooler and OEM Coolant installed 2020
  • A/C: Flawless, new Compressor and wiring installed 2019 (there's a little known design flaw where if you don't replace the wiring, you have to replace the compressors every few years)
  • Transmission: No known issues, solenoid/fluid/filters replaced as part of diagnostics (see notes below)
  • Transaxles: Replaced in 2019, no leaks or anything
  • Suspension: Original, worn out. Control arms need replacing
  • Tires: Great condition, most of the tread remains
  • Brakes: Pads & rotors replaced every 2 years, new rear calipers 2019, front caliper pins replaced 2020
  • Exhaust: Original, functional -- O2 Sensors need replacing
  • Body: Front bumper and driver door were attacked by some crazy drunk lady in a parkinglot one night
  • Chassis: No issues
  • Radio: Functional but suffers from the usual LCD burnout issue
  • Not Pictured: Jack/tire changing stuff will come with it
  • Other notes: Heat/Air control knobs will likely need replacing, as that controller board has a parasitic draw on it, likely a regulator blown out from the CAN. The radio works fine, but there could be other issues due to the CAN which I didn't cover because I stopped diagnosis
Car had just completed a drive up the coast so unfortunately the engine bay is pretty dirty. Pictures have watermarks embedded to reduce fraud potential, which is why there may be a haze appearance. Anything I disassembled or otherwise pulled out due to diagnostics, will be included in the sale, you can see most of those items in the trunk picture. There's also a spare IDPM being included.

Car's Death -- this is a lengthy read explaining a summary of my diagnosis of the vehicle.
As you read this you may think this falls under the "bad Nissan transmission" situation, but the evidence doesn't suggest that at all, it seems to be an electrical issue in the CAN itself.

Over the last year if you approached a stop (red light for example), once you came to a complete stop, the engine would sometimes randomly drop its baseline idle and act like it was about to stall. For example, if the baseline idle was 750, it would drop below that and bounce between 300-500 and nearly stall. A couple of times it actually stalled. It was sporadic, maybe a couple times a month. Logging never produced any MIL/CEL/SES codes or anything.

Then about once a week shifts would hang for long periods. This was about the same time the driver window switch became erratic.

One day prior to its death, the engine stalled numerous times at stop lights. It started back up immediately without issue. Shifting was definitely bonkers, it was wild, like a madman just slamming gears.

The day of its death, the car died at a light, and subsequently didn't want to move much under its own power. Random engine sputtering, the occasional "seems like a misfire" wobble. Torque was being electronically limited and the transmission wasn't getting full pressure, with these 2 issues combined the car barely made it off the road safely. I later found out that because the CAN died, the ECM & TCM went into a limp mode limiting torque, but also because of the dead CAN the TCM wasn't pressurizing channels properly, so shifting was dead. So I had it towed to my garage.

Error codes (CEL, MIL, SES) -- Discovered once I towed it back to my garage
B2604-00 -- Transmission Range/Gear Selection Switch
C1704-00 -- Low Tire Pressure -- Front Left
C1706-00 -- Low Tire Pressure -- Right Rear
C1707-00 -- Low Tire Pressure -- Right Left
C1708-00 -- No Data transmitted from TPMS -- Front Left
C1711-00 -- No Data transmitted from TPMS -- Rear Left
P1778 -- Transmission Step Motor Circuit Intermittent

Keep in mind, there were NONE of these prior
Tire Pressures were in fact not low, they were perfect

Day One -- Diagnostics
The battery died after 15 minutes of diagnostics which made no sense. Voltage read 10.9v. I later found out a parasitic draw (which resulted from the CAN getting blown out) is what killed the battery.

Error codes (CEL, MIL, SES) -- NEW codes which weren't there the day before
P0520 -- Engine Oil Pressure Switch
P0700 -- Transmission Control System
P0157 -- O2 Sensor Circuit Low Voltage
P0158 -- O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage
P0562 -- System Voltage Low
P1722 -- Vehicle Speed Signal Circuit

The previous codes disappeared, these appeared in their place

Just to see if it would make a difference, I replaced the solenoids in the transmission, along with the filters and new OEM fluid. It didn't solve anything, and the random codes continued.

At this point it was becoming clear that modules were throwing codes left and right despite there being issues, which lead me to dig into the CAN and power busses. I literally ran tests on every wire coming in/out of the IPDM and BCM, discovering high-current draws (not direct shorts) in places where draws shouldn't exist. I've got notes on most of it. This is when I decided to stop diagnostics. I no longer have access to CONSULT equipment, and the Owner didn't want to sink money into getting replacement modules.