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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
If you want to go back to Part 1 or 2, here's the threads....

http://www.altimas.net/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=24075

http://www.altimas.net/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=24074

Time required for completion: 30-45 min
Level of expertise required:
amateur
intermediate
expert


This is the final installment of the fog light wiring for dummies series.

This will cover the re-wiring of the factory fog lights on the 2000/2001 Altima.

The way the fog lights are setup from the factory, you can only have the fogs on when the low beams are on. So when you flick on the high beams or switch to just the driving lights, the fogs will go off.

This mod will let you have the fogs on with the driving lights, low beam, or high beam.

Why would you want to have your fogs on with the high beam or just the driving light?

Well........
1) When driving down a pitch black road, it's nice to have as much light as possible in front of the car.
2) It looks cool to drive with the fogs and driving lights just as the sun is going down and it's getting dark.

Here is the factory wiring setup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
If you read part 1 and 2 of the series, then you should understand what's going on in the diagram.

The factory fog lights are controlled by 2 switches... The fog switch on the light stalk and the relay. For ease of explaination, let's just say that the fog switch on the stalk is in the closed position. When the light switch on the stalk is placed in the "low beam" position, electricity is sent to the fog relay, and the switch in the relay is closed.

What we want to do is to connect up a power source to the relay that will be "ON" when driving light, low beam, or high beam is selected. And driving lights is the answer. They are "ON" in all 3 switch poisitons.

Here is what the modified wiring scheme we want to achieve.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Tools and supplies you're going to need:
jack and jack stand
tire lug wrench
philips screwdriver
small flathead screw driver
1/4" rachet with 10mm socket and extension
needle nose pliers with wire cutters
wire stripper
wire crimper
crimp conenctors (bullet conenctors)
wire (of course)
plastic ties
pocket knife
electrical tape
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Step one:
We need to gain access to the POS wire of the corner driving light. To do that, we need to remove the whole headlamp housing. Unlike the main headlight or turn signal, the wires for the corner light cannot be accessed from under the hood. They are inside the fender.

We're going to remove the driver side headlamp.

The headlamp housing is held in by 3 nuts and 1 bolt. 2 of the nuts and the bolt can be accessed from under the hood. The last nut is inside the fender.

Jack up the front driver side of the car and place it on a jack stand. Remove th wheel.

Peel back the front portion of the splash guard. Do this by removing the 3 philip screws under the bumper, and use the small flat head screw driver to prop off the 2 plastic snap fasteners.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Step two:
"What the hell is this black plastic box?!!! I can't see or feel for that [email protected] nut!"

Congradulations. You've just bumped into the air resonator box. It's used for muffling the sound of the air intake. It's like an appendix. You don't really need it. We need to remove it to get access to the nut. And besides, removing it now will help you later when you want to install a CAI down the road.

Get out your rachet and 10mm socket.

The resonator box is held in by 2 bolts and a rubber grommet. Take the 2 bolts out. The box will still be stuck to the side by the grommet. Pull it out away from the side, then down.

"How come we're removing the driver side headlamp since the passenger side lamp is closer to the relay box, and we're running into this much trouble on the driver side?"

Because there's a nastier surprise in the passenger side. It's the windshield fluid reservior. And I have no idea how to remove it and get to the nut holding the passenger side headlamp in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Step three:
You've gained access into the fender. Use the rachet to remove the nut.

Get under the hood, and remove the bolt and 2 remaining nuts. The bolt is obvious. The 2 nuts are next ot the radiator. Don't burn yourself on the radiator.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Step four:
Pull out the headlamp housing. You now have access to thw wires to the corner light. The wire is inside the loom. Use the pocket knife to cut the electrical tape on the loom and pull the wires out.

We want to splice in a new wire into the POS wire of the corner light. Cut the colored wire. Strip both ends. Get the roll of new wire, strip the end. Use the bullet connectors. Crimp one end of the cut wire, crimp the new wire and the other end of the cut wire together. Plug the bullet connector together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Step five:
We want to gain access to the fog relay. The relay box is located on the passenger side of the engine bay.

Stand on the passnger side of the engine bay. Open the cover of the relay box. The fog relay is the one in the upper left corner. We need to get underneath to get to the wires.

The relay box is held in by 2 bolts. Remove them.

Separate the bottom of the box from the tray. Use the small flat head scredriver and prop open clips holding the tray to the bottom of the box. There's about 7 of them.

With the bottom of the box removed, find the B-L-U-E wire going into the fog relay. Cut it. Strip the B-L-U-E wire that is still connected to the relay.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Step six:
Run the new wire from the driver side corner lamp to the fog relay. Cut the new wire to the proper length and strip it. Crimp the new wire and the B-L-U-E wire together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Step seven:
Voila! You're done. Test the lights out. If everything works out, put everything back together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Credits:
I would like to thank victor for providing the scans from the FSM.

I would like to thank chris for helping me to understand how relays work and explaining his fog light setup on his '98 GXE.

And I would like to thank RPMK104 for letting me do this mod on his car ('01 SE) so I can write this install up.

Thanks guys
 
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