The Nissan Club banner

1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
My 2004 Nissan Altima 3.5L V6 SE

Problem: Engine Cranks But Hard/No Start after Cold Soak
Source: Technical Service Bulletin NTB04021
Affected: 2004 Altima/Quest/Maxima

Solution: IF YOU CONFIRM: An applied vehicle has the following symptoms after a cold soak: Engine cranks excessively before starting. Engine cranks but does not start ACTION: Check the fuel pressure while the incident is occurring. If the fuel pressure is low (0 - 20 p.s.i.), replace the Fuel Pump Assembly. NOTE: The fuel pressure specification is 51 p.s.i.

Problem: No-Start after Cold Soak
Source: Technical Service Bulletin NTB04004
Affected: Altima or Sentra w/QR25

Solution: IF YOU CONFIRM - After a cold soak, the engine cranks (turns with starter), but does not start. Cold soak: Engine has cooled down to ambient (outside) temperature, regardless of summer or winter seasonal variations. The engine may start if it is cranked for an extended period (more than 5 seconds) or if the throttle is opened during cranking. After starting and operating for a few minutes the engine runs normally. ACTIONS: Replace the starter motor. Add 1 can of Nissan Fuel System Cleaner into the fuel tank. Perform ECM Part Number Check to see if the vehicle you are working on needs ECM Reprogramming. Perform ECM Reprogramming, if needed. See this bulletin for further detail.


My story

My car had a hard time starting every morning after I had about 75K miles on her. I have never had a problem with her up until this point. Of all the different cars I’ve owned over the years, this car was the least troublesome car to own. The problem would only happen in the winter months at first which led me to believe that the cold weather had a negative impact on the whole fuel delivery operation. Once I could get her to turn over and run, the rest of the day she would fire right up after one attempt. It wasn’t until that following summer I began to notice in the morning that my car had just as a hard time starting in the summer months as it did in the winter months. But the same would hold true here too; once I got her fired up she ran as though it never occurred. I began to wonder if it was something with my car instead of just the outside seasonal conditions. I began to think, I have not done one modification to my car for as long as I have owned her with the exception of changing out the tail light assemblies to all LED tail assemblies and the old rotors to drill and slotted ones once they both failed. Other than that, she’s all original. It was not until the following winter when I really had problems. See before, it would happen once a week, but this winter it’s been happening every three days of the week. It really needs my attention. By this time the warrantee had expired long ago, and I was pretty much on my own. My first instinct was to just take it to the shop and pay 1k+ to get it done. But I did not want to shell out that kind of money to have it fixed without at least trying it myself. The best resource that I could find and was open 24-7 was the internet. The second source was phoning the dealership and advance auto for parts. To make a long story short, I fixed it myself and it cost me $230.00 and a few hours on a cold Saturday afternoon. Alright to the solution………

Step 1: Get the VIN number of your car.
Step 2: Have a digital camera ready and a color printer (pictures are priceless especially
when you need hard to find parts)
Step 3: Find 3 hours of free time (preferably in warm weather)
Step 4: Get tools. A hammer, two flat screwdrivers 2 sandwich bags, 2 rubber bands, box
wrench set (mm) or an adjustable wrench, channel locks, all of which can be
found at your local hardware store.
Step 5: Have the car’s gas tank warning light flash, as this is the level you need the tank
to be at. (It really makes life easier). By Friday you should be on E anyways.
Step 6: Do not do this in your garage as some homes have the HVAC gear in there along
with a hot water heater and will ignite the fumes very very very very easy.
Step 7: Do it in the driveway with all the doors open and on a windy day (ventilation) and
not in the garage as you will get a mega headache of the fumes.
Step 8: Free help, helps but is not required.
Step 9: Take a picture of what it looks like before you attempt to do anything or move
onto the next step. It saves you doubt, because you will be more worried about a
fire than remembering how it went back together.


Step 10: Find someone in here that can host the write-up for you.

I have it down, but need someone to host it. Help.

Thanks,

Michael
 

·
slowly losing my sanity..
Joined
·
2,212 Posts
always good to have writeups. :)

you could just post your writeup and use an image hosting site for your images (imageshack, photobucket, tubeimage, etc, etc).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
766 Posts
excellent write up dude. looks like your engine needs hosed off. could you post the bosch part number for future reference.
 

·
20s because size matters
Joined
·
1,183 Posts
Very good write up. Should be stickied. Now the part number you have is for your 03 3.5? I imagine that they should be the same for all 3rd gen altimas, but you never know. Now the new pump came with the new filter? Thats is a stupid thing Nissan did if you ask me. I don't understand why they did not make a inline filter. My 99 maxima took me like 3 minutes to change.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
59 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Thanks! It was real easy once I figured out how to post pictures. If you want to know which Fuel filter assembly you need, just pop out your back seat (Its easy all you need is your index finger) then turn the 4 screws to remove the fuel assembly cover with a philips screwdriver. Then take a picture and goto advance auto or the dealership. If you goto the dealership they need your VIN number. Unfortunatlly there are no pictures of the assembly before you buy it, you just have to order it and before you say yup and leave the store, have the picture of the assembly with you to make sure its the right one, otherwise your SOL. I did this three time in order to get the one I had in my car. The 2005 version is whats in my 11/03 made car. The dealership would of had the right one the first time, but you have to buy it from them and it's frickin expensive. I hope this helps, as I had no help and was pissed when I had to keep going back.

Mike
 

·
My little champion...
Joined
·
4,966 Posts
Thanks for the detailed write up. I have problems with the car sputtering upon initial start up, but once I turn her off and start up again, she comes to life immediately. I changed the crank position sensor, new plugs, no difference.

I figured it had to be fuel related, so stupid of all car makers to start putting fuel filters in the tank now. Maybe its planned obsolescence?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
Just got done doing mine. There are a few differences on the 2002 (no clue about 2003)

There is only one fuel line going in. The gasket is much larger and sits on the inside of the tank. I found it easiest to slip this over the new pump, insert the gasket around hole and then push the pump in. Lastly, the retaining clip (and beats me why the hell they got rid of this design for the metal clip) is a big plastic one that screws over the top. Took 4 whacks with a hammer and screw driver to loosen it and could be undone by hand.

The most frustrating part is getting the damn clip off of the old pump (The thing referred to as the lil bugger in the write up lol). All in all, easy to do in a matter of 20-30 mins, pump was new from Autozone for $160
 

·
My little champion...
Joined
·
4,966 Posts
Just got done doing mine. There are a few differences on the 2002 (no clue about 2003)

There is only one fuel line going in. The gasket is much larger and sits on the inside of the tank. I found it easiest to slip this over the new pump, insert the gasket around hole and then push the pump in. Lastly, the retaining clip (and beats me why the hell they got rid of this design for the metal clip) is a big plastic one that screws over the top. Took 4 whacks with a hammer and screw driver to loosen it and could be undone by hand.

The most frustrating part is getting the damn clip off of the old pump (The thing referred to as the lil bugger in the write up lol). All in all, easy to do in a matter of 20-30 mins, pump was new from Autozone for $160
Do you know the particular part number, I know this is a late reply, but I am probably going to attempt this myself. Its a little more reassuring to hear that the clip on our 2002's is plastic.

How long did it take you approximately to do?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
I have an 03 altima, and I am thinking of changing the fuel assembly just for preventive pampering. No startup issues, no fuel sputtering, no nothing.
I am doing it just to pamper, like I said.

Anybody object against it? Or have any thoughts that may change my mind (aside from the price of the assembly).

thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
574 Posts
If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

Especially when you have to remove your back seat and get into the gas tank, plus spend a couple hundred bucks.

If you are just looking at things that might possibly break to throw money at, I'd start with Alternator and starter.
 

·
My little champion...
Joined
·
4,966 Posts
If you want to get preventative, when is the last time you changed your hoses, belts, battery, spark plugs and PCV valve. If you got a 2.5, tighten up those butterfly valve screws, switch out your stock header for an after market one. If you got a V6, add the 2004+ valve covers to the list with a new gasket and then you're all set as far as maintenance for a while.
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Top