I said this somewhere earlier...two small bottles of DOT3 or the megasize Walmart (I used Prestone). Have more than 8oz on hand...you don't want to run short, especially if this is your only car! Not expensive, can be returned unopened if purchased from big box.
Tubing. Clear (so you can see colour and bubbles) and more flexible rather than less. I think I used 3/16" ID? Doesn't have to be super accurate, as you can heat the business end in some boiling water for 10s or so and it will stretch quite nicely if you are a little narrow. You do want it fairly snug though. 2' should be plenty.
I used glass jars to collect so I can easily see the level and because they are less likely to tip over. No harm putting the collection jar in an oil drain pan though just in case!
Use gloves, not great on your skin.
And the bonus point for continuing to read...older calipers, especially those that haven't been touched in years (or decades) often have seized bleed nipples. Understand that if you snap one you will be replacing the entire caliper. So heat, penetrating oil, and time are your friends here. I'd start by using the drill brush mentioned above to clean and buff all around the bleed nipple threads where it meets the casting of the caliper. Hit it with WD40, wait a minute, hit it again, wait two minutes. Wipe off excess oil. Hit it with a small propane/butane torch off and on repeatedly stop if you see smoke from the penetrating oil...idea is to warm a small screw up...not melt it into slag. Allow to cool for a minute and hit it again with the penetrating oil a few more times. Let soak for 5-10min. Then and only then should you attempt to remove...and I use a two step approach: first I try a box wrench held with one hand and bumped with the palm of my wrist to see if it's going to be easy to loosen. If I can't shift it like that, I find the matching 6 sided socket to the box wrench (don't use 12 point sockets...WAY too easy to round off the bleed nipple facets)...put it on, ensure I have it square (ratchet handle 90' to bleed nipple) and again palm bump to see if it will move. More heat, more oil, more time...because trust me if that's seized and breaks, getting the rest of the caliper apart and cleaned up will be just as much fun times ten!
Fronts go faster than rears, but expect 5-10 full cycles per wheel. Yes you can go in whatever order makes sense, I tend to start with the fronts since they are by far the most important.
Keep an eye on the fluid in your collection jar, and replace fresh fluid for every ounce or two that comes out...you'll get a feel for how much you can pump before replenishing the reservoir above the master cylinder. I would check levels after your first 5 pumps and see where you are at. Again, keep a visible fluid level in the reservoir at all times.