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Has anyone replaced both stock lamps (hi and lo) with HID's or LEDs?

9K views 39 replies 16 participants last post by  Aaenergy 
#1 ·
I only hear about replacing the lowbeams in the Altima (2013, S). But haven't heard of anyone replacing both.

Is it harder to replace the hi-beams? Any potential problems?
 
#3 ·
I think it's worse with the 4th gens...no way to get at the LB bulbs from the engine side--you can just (assuming your hands aren't meat paws) get to the marker and signal bulbs. Either pull back the fender well inside cover, or drop the bumper for headlight bulb servicing. Don't want to take the chance of touching, dropping, or scratching the bulbs...never mind the scratching you'll take!
 
#5 ·
The reason you hear of people only replacing the low beams... is because no one uses the hi beams... and in some states it is illegal at certain conditions to use them.
So really no point in spending money for something you will rarely use.
 
#6 ·
But can it be done? Is it just as easy as replacing the low beams?
 
#8 ·
intentionally blank
 
#12 ·
The highs are tight next to the lows should just be as easy as the Lows were. Why don't you just get some better bulbs for the highs it be cheaper and less cluster doing that. It's tight enough finding space for ballast and all the wiring for the lows were you going to cram in all the stuff for they highs were it's not plastic cause those ballast get hot


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#17 ·
Yeah, I agree.
I think that's an excellent idea replacing the Highs with Halogens, but better ones. Are there "bright white" halogens I can get that are much better than the stock ones?
 
#13 ·
i have done the high beam and the low beams. to be honest i wouldn't bother with the high beams. just do the low beams. don't go beyond 6000k cos then you'll get to purple color that just looks stupid.
 
#14 · (Edited)
I did the high beams, but ended swapping the back to halogen bulbs. HID's take time to come up to brightness, and where I live there are always cars around so I can never leave the highs on long. I was annoyed by the delay to get light so I switched them back.

Drivers side high beam is easily accessed the same as the low beam, I do it from underneath removing the screws holding the black plastic inner fender plastic in the front.



For the passenger side, remove the snap holding the window washer fluid tube, pull the tube off, and then you can reach the bulb under the hood. You reach into the space where the filler tube was and can reach and twist to unlock the passenger side high beam bulb.


 
#15 ·
I have done LED fogs, HID lows and Halo highs for very much the same reason as above, and am pretty happy with the result.
@BPuff57 has put the LEDs I have in my fogs in his highs...presumably to colour match all 3 sets, with mixed reviews (hotspots). Until I am sure of the technology/reliability of LED--particularly through my first winter...I don't mind keeping a 'legacy' set of halogens "online" for now. That said, those LED units are some kinda bright!

Can you tell the difference between HID and LED below?

 
#18 ·
What halogen bulbs did you use? Are they still "bright white"? I hate that yellowish stock bulb. :/
 
#16 ·
I think that's an excellent idea replacing the Highs with Halogens, but better ones. And perhaps moving on to do fog lights. The only problem is that my 2013 S did not come with foglamps. It has the turn signals but that's it. Should I go with the switchbacks or try to add fog lamps altogether?
 
#19 ·
The silver stars are bright and look better than stock. There are other brands that will match the hid color.


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#22 ·
Winter update....

I have had no issues yet with cold temp startups...lowest has been down to around -20'C so far and all is well. No issues with salt or slush either...yet.

I did discover one area where halogens are superior...they actually get hot enough to self clean! I have had issues with freezing salt-slush sticking to my fogs and effectively rendering them into mud-coloured marker lights. The halo's always got hot enough to melt the ice coating off...even if you had to wait until you were stopped for some time (at along light, parked etc.). LED's not so much...they run way too cool to melt anything, so manual intervention is required sometimes.
 
#23 ·
#24 ·
Makes you wonder how the new models with LED headlights (Acura's come to mind) handle that problem...do they have aux heaters to prevent ice buildup? I know most housings wouldn't stand much of plastic on plastic scraping...and who wants to do that outside in a blizzard anyways??
 
#25 ·
HID's don't really produce a lot of heat, either, especially as compared to that of a halogen bulb.

In response to the OP - I replaced my high beams with HID's on my '08. As it's been said a few times in this thread already, it was pretty much pointless. I don't use my high beams very much as it is, so I chalked it up as a waste of time and money with a story to tell.
 
#28 ·
Repaced both with HID

The high beam and low beam HID are the same strength. The difference is 3 times the light compared to halogen but since the high beams are the same strength but just aligned higher on the road they are useless for city driving. The only time you would need the high beam HID is on a highway that is pitch black and you are searching for moose.
 
#29 ·
So what brand halogen bulbs would be the best quality and give me the same look as a 5k or 6k hid kit. And how much would a pair cost , and where can i get them from?
 
#30 ·
Closest thing you'll find are something like Silverstars...but it isn't the same, no colour change, no cutoff, no narrow spectrum light...and they'll run you about $50 per year (because that's about how long they last). I did that once...damn near snapped my fingers off going back to halogens in the middle of January after one burned out. You'd be better off putting some LED bulb in there first.
 
#31 ·
I've ended up with LED's for both high beam and low beam. I spent a little extra on the low beams to get 5000k at around 9,600 lumens and then went 1/2 the price ($79) for what seems to be identical LED's at 6000k and 10,400 Lumens (Per Pair).

I'm very happy with the brightness and distance down the road, instant on, etc. I think the main trade off is the beam pattern does have some shadowing from the heatsync design, more so with the high beams. For me it's worth it for the extra light and instant on on high beams, that HID's lack.

They do have fans on them, but I don't hear them, so it's not been an issue.
 
#33 ·
The driver's side is accessible from the same area as the low beams from under the car removing the plastic. For the passenger side, you just remove the one snap and window washer fluid filler tube, then it's just a trick of working the old bulb out and the new one in in the very tight space. Having done it before, it just took a few minutes to get them in. I've posted the process and others posted videos if you search.
 
#34 ·
Ok kool so its really not as hard as i thought. Im a lil familiar, had my bumper and both driver and passenger side splash guards off a few times. I think im just gonna go with a good set of l.e.d's
 
#35 ·
I've since upgraded to LED for both hi and low beams, brighter, whiter, and longer distance with instant on. The beam pattern has some shadowing due to the design, but I'm happier with them then HID or Halogens.
 
#36 ·
What type of LEDs do you put in for low beams.. Link maybe? I have HIDs in for low beams now but they kill my FM reception. Got them from TRS and they were very helpfull trying to resolve that issue. Replaced ballasts but no change. Maybe putting in LEDs would help with FM.
 
#37 ·
I played around with a bunch of lights. Have still not gotten a satisfied result. Here's my input.

1st setup was regular fog lights, HID 55K 35WATT low beam as well as high beams. It was a little better than stock bulbs. Looked much better for aesthetic purposes. The HID bulbs have a 10-20 second warmup. And during winter it can possibly bump up to 25-30seconds. My job required me to drive a lot and it was city and boonies mixed. Most of the time i used highbeams it's for instant extra light. But they'd always start out dim and brighten up so they were useless for that purpose. But if you're out and away for City area and driving through jungle or whatever leave them on and their brightness will light it up real good.

I switched to LED bulbs after that for all 3 LB HB and dogs. The LEDs will give you that instant extra light for High beams. Although either they're not bright enough or our car isn't equipped with the appropriate reflectors for their beam pattern. For dogs they do an OK job as well they light up your side view pretty good. I think it's better to have a yellow fog light rather than the 55k white that I have. Now the worst part of the LED is the headlight low beam. It's terrible. Doesn't spread out far. It's weird. I can directly look into the headlight without being blinded by it. And when it's raining. It's like driving with just 1 headlight on and it's dangerous. I think the projector lens is the issue here and not the bulb. TRS have some good products for our car which are a direct swap. If you're ballsy enough to take your headlight apart IMO that is the best way you can go about it. They have a direct swap kit for $170 I have been considering it. I'm a bit hesitant because I didn't plan on keeping the car past this year. But if I do I will definitely do a step by step for the forums.
 
#38 ·
Hey
2 qns for you,

can the replacement be done just by rotating the tires or did you have to take them off ? mine is a 2015 altima

also did you get fanless LED or fanned ones ? really hard to decide
am looking at these two products

with fan
https://www.amazon.com/SiriusLED-Ex...48854&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=h11+LED+kit&psc=1
vs https://www.amazon.com/SiriusLED-Ex...merchant-items&ie=UTF8&qid=1499048915&sr=1-18

and
fanless

https://www.amazon.com/SiriusLED-Fa...e=UTF8&qid=1499049041&sr=1-2&keywords=h11+led
 
#39 ·
Firstly, I would advise you not to get these bulbs. Night time driving especially in bad weather is going to be difficult. It is hard to see with the wrong projector lens. I got the LEDs with fan built in. looked similar like the ones you linked with, they just have more of a round butt. But they were some other brand linked below is the exact product. There is plenty space behind the headlight for the built in fan.
https://www.auxbeam.com/88623533


To install these you can turn your wheel and pry the wheel well and get your hand in there. Just be careful, there is some sharp stuff in there which can injure you. You will only be able to get to the low beam this way. For high beam, on the right side you can go from the top by removing the windshield washer fluid filler neck. and for the left side you still have to remove the wheel. Fogs can be done from under the car just by opening up the corner flap under the bumper.

Also, I got sick of the headlights and ended up purchasing the TRS setup 2 days ago. Their current sale had it for 25% off which shaved 75$ from the price. sale ends tomorrow! (you'd have to buy new bulbs and ballast as well). so for 230$ I got h1 clear projector it is bi-projector so highbeams and low beam becomes one bulb. I also ordered the splitter for double high beams. to keep my original high beam spot functional as well. The h1 HID bulb and morimoto ballasts are also included in the package which is a steal for the price. I have linked it below as well.

https://www.theretrofitsource.com/complete-retrofit-kits/morimoto-retro-quik-altima-maxima.html

I will also try to do a write-up for this with lots of photos. I've never done it before but read up on it enough that I feel confident doing it.
 
#40 ·
JSS,
If u r buying from Amazon....DO NOT go with the name brand...
search "XHP50 h11 LED" and start from there...this is the brightest chip with reasonable price.
I would say it's 100% brighter than stock.
Also, after the installation, spend a little time to adjust the headlight.(higher)
(I adjusted mine 2 times after the installaion...1st time...too high(LOL)....2nd time...just right.)
Look for a big round silver screw next to the LED headlight...
no tool is needed....use your thumb,index & middle fingers to turn the screw
counterclockwise = UP.......clockwise = DOWN....
hope this is helpful.
 
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