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donor cycle
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i found this on www.bottlefedracing.com (place i got my nx system) I thought this would help people understand how and why nitrous works...

How Does Nitrous Work? Simply put, nitrous oxide is not a fuel, but rather a source of additional oxygen for an engine. It enables more fuel to be burned, which in turn produces more horsepower. Concentrated pure oxygen mixed with air produces dangerously hot combustion that can kill an engine in a matter of seconds. Nitrous injection is safer because the oxygen atom in nitrous is bonded to two nitrogen atoms. The oxygen is unavailable at ambient temperatures and disassociates when above 560 degrees. Nitrous is a gas at standard temperature and pressure. (70 degrees, 14.7 PSI). Vapor pressure in a bottle will keep nitrous in liquid form at 760 PSI at standard temperature. Above 97 degrees nitrous will not stay a liquid, no matter what the pressure is. At temperatures below 97 degrees, it is possible to extract either liquid or gaseous nitrous from the bottle, depending on the siphon tube location. Liquid nitrous exiting the bottle will expand very rapidly due to the pressure drop from its normal pressure of 14.7 PSI and will consequently undergo a substantial cooling, becoming extremely cold.Nitrous oxide is 36% oxygen by weight. The chemically correct nitrous gasoline ratio is 9.6:1. The total fuel added almost always needs to be in excess of and beyond the chemically correct mixture, to keep the combustion temperatures reasonable. By the same token, lean mixtures can be disastrous in a nitrous engine. With no excess fuel, hot spots can cause the onset of pre-ignition and detonation. Lean nitrous/fuel ratios must be avoided at all costs. With gasoline, the maximum horsepower in a normally aspirated engine occurs at air fuel ratios 15-20% rich of stoichiometric. Nitrous engines burn on air fuel mixture with enhanced oxygen content but less nitrogen, so there is less inert nitrogen to control combustion temperatures, automatically causing combustion temperatures and flame speeds to increase. Actual fuel mixtures should be increased well rich of stoichiometric to achieve maximum power and to provide combustion chamber cooling. -James at TNT Nitrous
 

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Incognito
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I think we should save this as a sticky, someone is gonna come in here and ask that same question every week...
 

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Rollin' On Jordans
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657 Posts
cthunder said:
I think we should save this as a sticky, someone is gonna come in here and ask that same question every week...
good idea...good info, rick.
 

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1320 In 12 With A Bed.
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LMAO! You just put an end to this section of the board. This place is gonna be dead for a while.
 

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Rollin' On Jordans
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Redline said:
LMAO! You just put an end to this section of the board. This place is gonna be dead for a while.
LOL...yeah, i never thought about that. well, it was a good ride while it lasted.
 

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Rollin' On Jordans
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Sleeper said:
Am I missing something, what do you mean this is going to be dead for awhile?
just means that the info and links that rick posted make this forum less meaningful because it answers many common nitrous questions.
 

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350Z
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5,899 Posts
how about wet vs dry theory

for a fuel injected car, run dry shot
for a carborated car, run a wet kit

here is why, in a fuel injected car, the air/gas coming through the throttle body is evenly distributed among the cylinders. However, a liquid is not! Therefore in a wet system, you are exposing your cylinders (especially the farthest one form the throttle body) to a dangerous and often fatal condition, a lean system (not enough fuel to accomodiate the extra Oxygen provided by the n2o system). It is the complete opposite in a carborated system, since the fuel/liquid is shot through the carborator, the nos can be added safely without the risk of going lean.

If you have the money, go for a direct port which uses the injectors to add more fuel instantly and evernly distributes the n2o to all cylinders. This is by far the best system. This should be used with upgraded fuel injectors and an upgraded ECU system.
 

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osama said:
This should be used with upgraded fuel injectors and an upgraded ECU system.
ok i have been hearing this ECU and FMU shit everywhere!!! WHAT THE **** DOES IT STAND FOR!!! (im a newb)
 

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Incognito
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ecu is your car's computer, and fmu is your fuel mapping unit. oh, and before anyone yells at ya, do a search.
 

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cthunder said:
oh, and before anyone yells at ya, do a search.
im not really good at reasearching on this topic, as i repeat im just a newb, and i try to learn...
 

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Incognito
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its eaasy bro, just scroll to the top of the page, there are a series of buttons like user cp, register, blah blah blah, search, press on that and follow the directions.
 

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Rick said:
Liquid nitrous exiting the bottle will expand very rapidly due to the pressure drop...
Which is another reason why a dry system or port injected system is safer. Less risk of a manifold explosion.


Rick said:
The total fuel added almost always needs to be in excess of and beyond the chemically correct mixture, to keep the combustion temperatures reasonable. By the same token, lean mixtures can be disastrous in a nitrous engine. With no excess fuel, hot spots can cause the onset of pre-ignition and detonation.
This is also why it is important to take some timing out when on the bottle and also to run colder plugs... In order to reduce the likelihood of detonation due to excessive cylinder pressures/temps.



Good day all. Allow me to introduce myself, I'm ssslither. Snakes/reptiles are a fondness of mine hence the name. I stumbled across this fine site yesterday while looking for info on adding a turbo to my wife's '98 Altima. Looks like I found a good source. I myself am a V8 guy (personal toy is a 420 sbc 70 Camaro SS) but can appreciate the outstanding craftsmanship & enginuity it takes to get a 4 cyl. to be able to blow the doors off some of my fellow V8 lovers. I hope I can add useful information as I have seen so far.
 

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donor cycle
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
where do you live ssslither? You frequent speedworld or firebird?
 

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Rick,

I also live in Chandler. I used to run a car out at Manzy & Canyon but since I now work back half nights
it doesn't allow a lot of time to go to the track. I have a few friends that run at Firebird & if I ever get off nights, I'll build another car. The Camaro is in about 1000 pieces right now.
 

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donor cycle
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
ssslither said:
Rick,

I also live in Chandler. I used to run a car out at Manzy & Canyon but since I now work back half nights
it doesn't allow a lot of time to go to the track. I have a few friends that run at Firebird & if I ever get off nights, I'll build another car. The Camaro is in about 1000 pieces right now.
if you ever go out to the track or need an extra set of hands when you work on your camaro let me know! :D
 

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1320 In 12 With A Bed.
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176 Posts
Are you guys mad? A wet kit is FAR SUPERIOR to a dry kit. C'mon now...
 

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That explanation quoted by James @ TNT was "borrowed" by that site.

TNT makes excellent nitrous kits. Their website is www.nitrous-power.com

The eight second LS1 on their website is owned by the guy that did the internal engine build-up on my LS1.

I'll try to contact these guys and see what they have for the Altima's.
 

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donor cycle
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8,475 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
yeah, i've been hearing great things about TNT kits. I am contemplating running one of their plate systems on my Barracuda eventually.
 
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